[TucsonJay]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

Oh yeah,I remember that ultimate primer it was pretty darn good stuff and cheap too...I used itwhen it first came out and for a few years after that ..do they still make it

I just bought two gallons... so they must. :-)

I guess when you started painting in the sixties like myself... using lacquer and enamel primers... then even the worst primers today would be an improvement! I just like a product that does the job every time.

I should add that moisture is not the problem in Arizona, that it is in other states. The air here is much drier, and the amount of wet weather is far less too. At least it isn't like the days that my home state of Illinois would salt the roads in the winter, and a car could rust out in two years!!! Recently I have done a Charger and an AMX from Florida, and had to deal with extensive rust damage. Reminded me of the "good old days" back home!!! {:-(

[deadbodyman]

The 60's ....No I painted my first car in 76 (at 16) did bodywork since 14yr...
and yes any of the primers of today are much better than what we started out with ....BUT I really feel the guys that started out using 2k's are missing a big part of the learning curve by not learning all the steps to get lacquer primers to work right...for instance you could NEVER prime over something finished out in 80 grit which is fairly common today....

[TucsonJay]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

The 60's ....No I painted my first car in 76 (at 16) did bodywork since 14yr...
and yes any of the primers of today are much better than what we started out with ....BUT I really feel the guys that started out using 2k's are missing a big part of the learning curve by not learning all the steps to get lacquer primers to work right...for instance you could NEVER prime over something finished out in 80 grit which is fairly common today....

Still more we have in common! Yes... lacquer primer was terrible for shrinkage into a porous surface. I did a lot of Corvette restos in the '80s, and switched to enamel primers, since the early Vette 'glass was sooooo open and pourous! At least the enamel primer would not come back and bite you six months after it's painted!!! :-(

Also... If you don't count spray painting my bikes and model cars... I painted my first real car in High school, in '65, at age 16. :-)~ "My brother from another mother!"

[Hotbo]

Originally Posted by mitmaks

Don't think that I'm some amateur who just grabbed gun in his hand. I've been painting, doing bodywork for good 15 years now. I have used many different primers, expensive PPG K36 and compared to K36 Finish 1 is great primer for fraction of a price (and I get it at discount from local SW dealer)
I'm sure there are more expensive products out there but for repairs this works just great.
I do use SPI epoxy and yes it's great product. It is too expensive to use as a high build primer though and I have 2k primer for just that purpose.

never said u were a Amateur,lol!.

Besides that has nothing to do with Primer.

i have stated i used a few gallons of it and thought of it as Garbage,junk Etc.

they gave me a Case and i ended giving 2 gallons w/act away to some guys painting a Horse trailer.

SPI primer is reasonably priced and A lot better.

if you like and get decent build out of it then good for u.i got neither out of that Particular Product.therefor i never recommend it.

Best of luck Travis

[Hotbo]

Originally Posted by TucsonJay

I like simple solutions. Also I will use a paint system until it fails one time, then find something better. I also avoid new products for a couple years, until the manufacturer works out the "early production problems". When I get a system that works for me every time, I will NOT change it unless it fails. (Yes... they do reformulate products to meet EPA standards and such... and it usually leads to problems. I will not use the latest "trick-of-the-week" system, when mine is working just fine.

I have used 2K primer only for about 20 years with zero failures. Sand the metal good, then metal prep 30-60 minutes before primer, and NEVER has adhesion problems. The only time I would consider epoxy first is if it will be left in primer and exposed to the weather. As far as wetsanding, I do it on every job, and then seal and paint. No problems with this in 20 years of full time work.

I know I am a dinosaur... but I guarantee my work for as long as they own the project. That takes confidence. I like Marhyde's Ultimate Primer.

Most all of my family and Friends have Body shops or do Paint and Body work

i am 3rd generation.

i have a close friend that does exactly what you do sand, Metal prep then 2k.

i keep telling him his Paint will fail and he says after 30 years haven't had 1 come back b/c of it!

i think ill stick to Epoxy on Bare metal like it was designed and to be used for.

Travis

[deadbodyman]

I do a lot of chem stripping and all I can say is you can always tell when youve hit the epoxy.2k strips right off, epoxy is a little tougher always requiring a fresh coat of stripper just for the epoxy...
applying materials is one thing but removing them tells a lot more...
You never really know about the materials or your proceedure untill you do a job and have it come back damaged again ....this also tells a lot...

[mitmaks]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

I do it all the time I hardly ever use a sealer (even epoxy ) Only on high end super straight work do I use an epoxy sealer when I do seal I always sand it before paint.
If youve ever sanded an after market panel(like a hood )you;ll sand the primer off in many spots (I usually sand all that cheap primer completely off)or if you strip a panel and it dosent need any filler work you can reduce the SPI to 20-40% and after spraying two coats go right to paint,it flashes pretty fast.

Why do you sand sealer? To reduce orange peel or???

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by mitmaks

Why do you sand sealer? To reduce orange peel or???

any bits of trash at all ,I fear the trash poking through when I color sand,and I guess the texture too I dont really want to spend all the hours getting it perfectly flat then spraying a sealer with even the slightest amount of texture to paint on....it dosent have anything to do with adheasion..Giving the epoxy a quick sanding sets my mind at ease...