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Old 01-12-2012, 10:16 PM
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Dud engine

I have a 302 Ford engine w/ an auto trans in a kitcar. It idles okay, but when I dump it into drive it dies. I don't want to increase the idle past 1000 RPM because I don't want to ruin the trans and even at about 1200 RPM, it still dies when there is a load on the engine when I put it into drive. I think I may have a vacuum problem with my carb. Is that the likely cause as to why it dies in gear? It used to idle at about 750 RPM and although it would lurch more than I would like, at least it would get into gear and move along; but recently even at 1000 RPM it dies when placed in gear. What gives? Would love to hear from someone who can help me.

Mahalo. Jugger.

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Old 01-13-2012, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
I think I may have a vacuum problem with my carb. Is that the likely cause as to why it dies in gear?
Ayuh,... So fix the vacuum leak, 'n give the poor thing a full, 'n complete Tune Up....
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger
I have a 302 Ford engine w/ an auto trans in a kitcar. It idles okay, but when I dump it into drive it dies. I don't want to increase the idle past 1000 RPM because I don't want to ruin the trans and even at about 1200 RPM, it still dies when there is a load on the engine when I put it into drive. I think I may have a vacuum problem with my carb. Is that the likely cause as to why it dies in gear? It used to idle at about 750 RPM and although it would lurch more than I would like, at least it would get into gear and move along; but recently even at 1000 RPM it dies when placed in gear. What gives? Would love to hear from someone who can help me.

Mahalo. Jugger.
Do you have vacuum advance connected, if so it could be causing issues for you.
If you do get it to run in gear does it run smooth. If you can keep it running take a look and see what is happening with the timing.
Obviously you want to check all the basics first, vacuum leaks, timing, idle mixture etc
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:37 AM
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After you have checked for external vacuum leaks and found none, don't discount the possibility of an internal vacuum leak at the intersection of the intake manifold ports and the head ports. That junction being tight on the top side does not mean that the junction is tight on the bottom side of the port. Many times, we fail to check for a solid connection there and if the angle of the head does not match exactly the angle of the intake, the motor will pull oily crankcase vapors into the cylinder when the intake valve opens.

Many of us have learned to sacrifice an intake gasket just before final assembly to see that the gasket is being pinched all the way around every port. If not, some machining will be necessary to parallel the manifold and head surfaces. Pull all the spark plugs and inspect for oiling.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:46 AM
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I just 'repaired' a ho hum performing 5.0L - the vacuum advance line was split right at the carb fitting and on the bottom and unseen side.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:36 PM
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dud engine

Thanks to all of you for your replies. I will overhaul the carb (I sprayed carb cleaner around it and I know it is leaking at the gaskets) and will specifically check the vacuum advance and hose; never thought of that but obviously it makes a lot of sense.

Assuming that I get the carb in good shape and no longer sucking in air where it isn't supposed to, what do I do with the vacuum advance for starters? just pull the hose and plug the ports and start it and see if it will go into gear without dying?

Mahalo.

Jugger
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:01 PM
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Check any and all hoses or connections on the intake manifold, including the hose that goes to the power brake cannister. Remove the hose at the cannister and plug it to check hose and diaphragm validity.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:28 AM
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dud engine

Again, many thnaks for your collective help.

Aloha.

jugger
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