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Old 10-13-2003, 05:48 PM
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Dull windows, what do I do?

I've got, what I'm sure is a common problem with my original 1967 mustand windows. There really dull. What can I use to remove the mineral deposits and the 30 sum'odd years of weather etching? Anybody have a clue? They're really in fairly good shape considering the age and I'd rather restore than have to pay for new glass.

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Old 10-14-2003, 05:01 AM
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Restoring glass has some very easy instructions, but it takes the patience of Jon to do it correctly. While in the USAF, we used to buff out aircraft canopies, which are plastic and they still were not that good. Is your glass covered with hard water residue or is it stained?
First, try household vinegar and a wash cloth.
If the results are not there, try a lime deposit remover from the hardware store.
If that don't do it, you will need to go to a mild abrasive. Toothpaste works very good.
If you really have some problems, some glass shops use pumice, or volcanic ash.
Go slow and take it lightly. Do not use a steel wool or some scrubby pads. If one of these work, when you are all done, you need to buff the entire glass out with a polishing compound, not a rubbing compound.

All said and done, you could put all this effort into a part time job and buy new glass.
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:13 AM
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buffing

my friend had great success buffing his 60 ponti they have wrap around glass and the wipers kill screens fast
he used a wool buff and a 12volt auto pollisher i dont know what he used for a compond but he lost a day s work mind you a new screen and r/r adds up to bucks
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Old 10-14-2003, 07:03 AM
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I have a 67 coupe as well. When the rear glass was out of the car for painting the painter told me to use steel wool. The steel wool MUST be very fine. Double 00-0000. It takes time but it took the lines off from an old decal out Take care of the rear glass because their not made any more for the 67 coupe. Good luck, Bub.
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:25 PM
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thanks for the info. Fortunately, right now I've got more time than money for this project, so cleaning is the most cost-effective route for me. Thanks again.
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Old 10-15-2003, 03:46 PM
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well I own a window cleaning business, if tough situations we use hyrdochloric acid. you can get it a janitorial places. DO NOT LET IT GET IN CONTACT WITH YOU SKIN OR ANYTHING ELSE!

well I own a window cleaning business, if tough situations we use hyrdochloric acid. you can get it a janitorial places. DO NOT LET IT GET IN CONTACT WITH YOU SKIN OR ANYTHING ELSE!
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Old 10-17-2003, 10:39 PM
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I used Steel Wool as well, it works just great on windows, but don't touch mirrors with it. I did and I need a new mirror now.


bonuts
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Old 10-18-2003, 09:26 AM
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Try some woodstove glass cleaner, it'll clean just about anything. If you're using some of these harsh chemicals, be careful not to get the stuff on the window felts. Dan
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Old 10-18-2003, 09:36 AM
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Wow, woodstove glass cleaner. I didn't realize woodstoves had glass in them. Once again the previous generation passes on useful information to the next generation.

Thanks for the tips
Pencilneck314
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Old 10-22-2003, 10:10 AM
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wonderous advice here on this subject. anyway, just wanted to reiterate about the steel wool. DO NOT USE BRILLO PAD type courseness as it WILL SCRATCH! I always use 0000. never scratches.
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:39 AM
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Hey Pencilneck314,
I think I can help you out. I am assuming you are dealing with scratches and pits, rather than paint oversray or something else stuck to it.
I had a glass repair business for a while. Repaired bullseyes, stars, cracks, etc. I also bought a kit to buff windshields. Works very well for light scratches especially like what you will see in the wiper area, and specs all over from being sandblasted by road grime. Windshield will look a thousand times better after being buffed. However anything that catches your finger nail such as a heavy wiper scratch will not come out but will usually narrow down to a few fine lines. The problem is, it is VERY time consuming, and therefore fairly expensive to have done to the whole windshield.
It requires a special polish compound and the buff pad that I have has holes in it to help dissipate heat. Heat is a bad thing when buffing glass.
As far as myths about making the glass wavy form buffing it, well... I have never had a problem, cant speak for anyone else though I guess. You would have to grind in one spot for awful long time to do that.
I have done a few older cars with good outcome and happy customers. As a matter of fact I have to do my Galaxie when I get it back from the body shop ( finally gave up trying to straighten out the waves myself).
Check your local glass shops and have them quote you a price for doing it. May be just as cheap to buy a windshield though.
Good luck, Skidmark
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