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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2009, 05:08 PM
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No doubt about one thing PT Barnum knew what he was talking about!

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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2009, 02:48 AM
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just about done

well, just to see what the hoopla was on the paint shop stuff a buddy of mine has a 96 mustang that he wrecked. he asked me to repair the front and paint it. so i proceeded with pt# bsp203 performance red. the car--mind you-- was in pretty bad shape when arrived, someone b-4 painted the whole car. looked pretty bad!! i advised him that im not a painter, he said "so just make it presentable". yesterday he came to see it and was ecstatic the way it turned out. i told him that there is mixed feelings on this paint by different painters so he is ok for having a trial car. im curious on the durability also. hey chevytruckguy, check your private inbox on this site. ttfn
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2009, 12:52 AM
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finished

well, i finished the stang, turned out pretty good. he liked the way it looked but i didnt put clear on it, the shop owner needed space for other repairs. i told the cust to goto maaco to shoot the clear. he went on vacation so i havent talked to him yet. i dont know if i would use the paint shop stuff again for a big project?. maybe like a motorbike or an atv paint job would be better. i may try it on my old 14 ft boat. it dont look bad but could look better. ill need to learn about fiberglass now.
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:34 AM
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Dupli-color .. had some experience and used it .. When built my last car the project took the usual time, working the body I painted over the repair with the hotrod primer , I like the dark color ... Now the best part about Dupli-color is this.

When I was ready to prime and shoot the car for the final color I just took lacquer thinner and wipe that crap right off .. it protected the bare metal and came off very easy when ready to complete the paint work.. so Dupli-color is a fine temp bare metal treatment .
I think the big curiosity is that it looks like it works on TV just like all those spray on, pour in magic sauces folks put into there motors in stead of fixing the problem ... can you say Hiding ... Motors too body do it right use good products , or you will end up with two choices sell it or do it over there is a definite right way and wrong way to life including this stuff ..
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2009, 12:32 PM
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I think the main point is being missed here, no one is saying that lacquer will not look good (for a while) after all a heck of a lot of show cars were/are painted with the stuff. It certainly CAN be made to look great but for how long is the question, those of us who sprayed the stuff back in it's day know that it is not for long. The point some people seem to want to overlook is that the stuff is not cheap in spite of the sales BS because of the amount required to finish a job and if you want it to look decent with a good gloss it is going to take a lot of sanding/buffing that in about 6 months or so you will get to do again if you want to maintain that gloss. Then there is the chipping problem to go along with the gloss fading and let's not forget about the cracks that tend to develop if a lot of clear is used. The point is that for the same amount of money, possibly even less, the "econo" BC/CC or single stage paints are going to have better gloss, more durability and chip resistance plus they will last a heck of a lot longer. Don't expect to wipe either off with lacquer thinner!
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:31 PM
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kinda funny

yeh oldred you are correct. the funny thing is that i own a red 95 mirage two door in really good shape. just finished installing an extremely balanced sound system in it. two days ago i got into the tire well and cleaned alot of surface rust. instead of going to paint shop, i used (dont laugh) rustoleum aerosol. i first used self etch on the leftover paint AND the bare metal. then used their red paint. the aerosol cans covered better than paint shop. wish they wouldve used fan spray nozzles. i had a hard time understanding the two hour touch drying time but after it was done, the enamel stuck better than paint shop. glad i went with it. maybe if rustoleum would put their enamel in ready to spray cans the hoopla about lacquer would fade away??? i dont know about paint, i just repair stuff.
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 12:47 AM
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Remember How this post started!! My own interest in the remixed new formula. Second I wanted to know how long it would last. Third I like the fact that it was ready to shoot. Could paint in your Garage. The smell is minimal/hazard compared to bc/cc. Touch up repair simple!
Simple cheap to start out with.
Time and time again Guys have burn through a ton of money with there failed attempts with the good stuff. Lets not forget to do a good job you need a booth know matter how you want to look at it.
So Because of all the bull I did my own test and posted my results.
The test panel I painted is still holding up so I don't see the same thing!

With that being said would I paint a custom car with it! Heck NO!!. Would I paint a beater trail truck dune buggy atv bike sure would and I would not loose any sleep if I scratch them. Simple cheap fix in my own garage.

So from my point of view I have not seen any failed paint to date. Which everyone keep telling me I should have seen cracks fading and so on!
I would like to see the Paint thicker and work on making a higher end paint and it would be a winner for some jobs.

Craig
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
My own interest in the remixed new formula.
NEW formula? Get real, That's probably the biggest piece of mis-info you keep trying to push. If it was any kind of new improved formula they would be advertising that to no end, it's lacquer plain and simple.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
Third I like the fact that it was ready to shoot.

If something as simple as mixing the activator is a problem for you then maybe you do need to stick to something that requires no thought.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
The smell is minimal/hazard compared to bc/cc.Touch up repair simple!

Smell is not the problem!

The fumes from BC/CC and also the single stage activated paints are much more hazardous than lacquer, you are right about that but if anyone cares the least bit about their health they will take the same precautions with lacquer as BC/CC. Lacquer is NOT safe to breath, not by a long shot!

Touch up repair with lacquer is indeed simple, in fact it is quite simple, and if that is a big issue for you then lacquer has a clear advantage here. It is not however all that difficult to touch up the newer paints for those who use it but still lacquer is much easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
Simple cheap to start out with. Time and time again Guys have burn through a ton of money with there failed attempts with the good stuff.

Time and again it has been pointed out to you that it is NOT CHEAP to start out with! The economy type BC/CC and single stage paints are cheaper (and a heck of a lot more durable!) than RTS lacquer because when you buy it premixed like that you are getting only a few ounces of paint, most of what you are buying is thinner so the total cost of the material to finish a job is anything but cheap. The economy type BC/CC and single stage paints are no more expensive, most times even cheaper, than RTS lacquer and produce a far more durable finish.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
Lets not forget to do a good job you need a booth know matter how you want to look at it.

Most of the guys here don't have a booth and turn out some fantastic work, that statement is just plain nonsense.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
So Because of all the bull I did my own test and posted my results.
The test panel I painted is still holding up so I don't see the same thing!

With that being said would I paint a custom car with it! Heck NO!!. Would I paint a beater trail truck dune buggy atv bike sure would and I would not loose any sleep if I scratch them. Simple cheap fix in my own garage.

So from my point of view I have not seen any failed paint to date. Which everyone keep telling me I should have seen cracks fading and so on!
I would like to see the Paint thicker and work on making a higher end paint and it would be a winner for some jobs.Craig

Now that part makes sense, doing your own testing is the best way to find out about anything and posting what you find is OK too but making claims based on TV infomercials borders on being just plain ridiculous. Trying to say that this is some kind of marvelous new improved product when even the manufacturer makes no such claims (except for maybe some dubious remarks made in the commercials disguised as programming) does not make any sense and is completely misleading. The examples you give of what you want to use this stuff for are very good examples of what it might considered for and for something like that it should work just fine, however that ignores the point that even these items could be done as inexpensively and with more durable results with the economy type newer paints. No question about it if you are painting an ATV or mud buggy that will need frequent repair then the Dupli-Color is just the ticket but call it what it is.
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 03:12 PM
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http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sear...ords=ultra-glo

If you want to go cheap, here it is.

I keep several common colors in stock at my shop (flat "hot rod" black, silver, and dark grey metallic) and painted my BILs truck (see gallery) with Mack green this summer. I can tell you from personal experience that this stuff is super durable and pretty easy to shoot. Unlike "Dupli-Color" , it works as advertised. I can guarantee you it's cheaper to use, too. I painted a whole SUV with less than a gallon.

The "Hot Rod Black" looks excellent and keeps its looks. The silver is beautiful and easy to spray.
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 04:17 PM
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That's one of the "economy" paints I referred to and there are others any of which is far more durable than lacquer. I use implement enamel and hardener from Tractor Supply on rebuilt tractors and although I personally would not use it to paint a car I know for a fact it is more durable and will last longer than Lacquer. For a beater, an ATV or something of that nature the stuff would probably be a decent way to paint really cheap and while the color selection might be kind of small it certainly could be made to look good if cost is that much of a concern-certainly a heck of a lot cheaper than Dupli-Color!
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2009, 01:57 PM
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Hi Guys,

I plan on using Duplicolor paint shop for the following reasons. If have a better solution please let me know.

I have a old 1937 car that has been a project for some time. I have been driving around with primer on it. At first the primer was only supposed to be on the car for a short time. But as projects go that was 3yrs ago. I want to paint the car but also I still need to do the body work a little at a time. Which means repainting small sections at time in my garage.

Duplicolor says that they have no repaint window which seems to be just what I need. I am not concerned about how long the paint will last. When I finally get the body work done, I plan on puting bc/cc paint on it. I just need something to make the car look good in the mean time and is easy for a non-pro to do in the garage.

My primary concern is with using a bc/cc is the hazards. In Calif you simply cannot paint with acrylic Urathane in your garage unless you want to get sued by your neighbors who breath the fumes. I called the local air resource board to find out it was legal to paint in my garage and thay said while the voc level would so low that they did not care, if one of my neighbors complained they would have to come out. I understand that the fine is very stiff.

My understanding is while laquer is still toxic it does not have iso's that the activator in urethans have. And while not perfect, is much safer to use in my garage than an urathane.

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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2009, 03:14 PM
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Something you might want to consider is that a finish is only as good as what is underneath it so when it comes time to apply the "real" paint the lacquer really needs to be removed. Lacquer has no re-coat time but neither does BC/CC except for proper flash times and you can paint over it at a later time but if you can't use ISO's but can use lacquer then it sounds as if you may be stuck with it. Be warned that the pre-mixed packaging is a gimmick and for the money you spend on a qt of that stuff you will be getting very little actual paint since it is more than half thinner, a qt of lacquer does not go very far.


Also you mention that the body has been in primer but you don't say what kind of primer. If it is 1k lacquer primer then you really need to remove all of it on each part as you work that area, moisture will go right through that junk and you will have rust that you can't see lurking under it. Back when I used that stuff I learned the hard way that lacquer primers will do next to nothing to protect the metal, worse than nothing actually since it tends to hide the problem until it shows up to ruin your finish paint a few months (or weeks!) later.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2009, 03:27 PM
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Some of the other posts have said that lacquer is no safer than acrylics because of you get high off the fumes. Are you not using a mask? I hope no one on this thread is using any paint without protection. Lacquers are safer to use because the do not have ISO's in them. ALL PAINT IS BAD TO BREATH. I looked up the MSD for a bc/cc. and the manufacture said to use full hood with fresh air supply because of the ISO's.

Lacquer can be sprayed safely with a canister face mask(new canisters), protective clothing and ventilation wheres as bc/cc require a fresh air supply.

Am I wrong?
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2009, 03:55 PM
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oldred,

I rattle canned it with etching primer. But that was years ago and it is wearing off. I do know their is some rust is under it after I got caught in a rain shower. I know I will have strip it before painting it.

I have read that the lacquer is not compatible with newer paints and will have to be removed. However, I cannot use a paint that has ISO's so until I get a better option I guess the duplicolor or some other lacque is what I will use.

The other this is that I want something that is easy to do after fixing each panel. In the past I had been working on a panel and then decided I wanted to drive it before i was done. So, I rattle canned it, drove the car and then when I got back to fixing the panel I would strip it again. this is not as bad as it sound because I am working on small areas at a time. I need a paint that will allow this.

My plan was to paint the entire car with the duplicolor and then as I fixed the dents and there are a lot of dents(I found the car in a field) i would strip repaint the area. When I got all of the dents/Rust holes fixed I would take it to a shop and have the entire car striped, blocked and painted in newer paint of some kind. I know some will call me stupid and wasting money for painting a car twice but I am tired of black primer!
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2009, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brown37
oldred,

I rattle canned it with etching primer. But that was years ago and it is wearing off. I do know their is some rust is under it after I got caught in a rain shower. I know I will have strip it before painting it.

I have read that the lacquer is not compatible with newer paints and will have to be removed. However, I cannot use a paint that has ISO's so until I get a better option I guess the duplicolor or some other lacque is what I will use.

The other this is that I want something that is easy to do after fixing each panel. In the past I had been working on a panel and then decided I wanted to drive it before i was done. So, I rattle canned it, drove the car and then when I got back to fixing the panel I would strip it again. this is not as bad as it sound because I am working on small areas at a time. I need a paint that will allow this.

My plan was to paint the entire car with the duplicolor and then as I fixed the dents and there are a lot of dents(I found the car in a field) i would strip repaint the area. When I got all of the dents/Rust holes fixed I would take it to a shop and have the entire car striped, blocked and painted in newer paint of some kind. I know some will call me stupid and wasting money for painting a car twice but I am tired of black primer!
Lemme be the first to bust yer balls for being stupid and wasteful...sarcasm implied. Actually as far as using the duplicolor, use a solid color since you're doing a panel at a time. Metallics and pearls appear different colors if painted at different times or orientations. I'm not a fan or lacquer material but it was the cats meow years ago. Sounds like it is what you're limited to out in Mexifornia so I applaud your efforts. Good luck and post pictures if you can please.
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