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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2009, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
Has anyone watch then spray this product on Truck. About time Lacquer make a come back with new earth friendly components. I went to there web site and watched the video on spraying the product cool. And the price is right 200.00 for a complete paint job paint come already mix He I thought it was perfect.

OK paint pro's what ya Think?

Craig
I used the Dupli-Color Paint Shop system to refurbish a white fiberglass chair about two years ago. It looks great but itís an indoor chair that probably wonít get into any fender-benders in the guest room. I bought the primer, base and clearcoat but only used the primer and base. I like the flat white because it doesnít show the flaws. I used more than a pint of primer and another pint of white and it seems to have covered OK. Had to sand the white to get rid of a bug that flew through the spray. Easy fix but there isnít a very thick paint film. Buffing paint that thin more than once seems like a recipe for disaster (unless you like shiny bare steel). They hint at this problem in Step 4-- Apply Clear Coat. "Apply as many coats as necessary to achieve desired gloss. Additional film build-up is required if you plan to cut and buff the final finish..." Uh, this is lacquer, how else do you get it to shine. Back in the 60's I touched up the scratches on my 47 Ford with spray black lacquer and it looked terrible until I wet sanded and polished it.

The instructions in Step 5 on the can hint at the durability of this paint system. You have to "buff with a random orbital waxer/polisher using a wool buffing pad and 1500 grit rubbing compound..." The instructions specifically state "Do not use a high-speed buffer as they are too agressive and will damage the paint surface."

No one has ever paid me to paint a car so I guess I can't be considered a professional. However, you pay the exact same price for my advice as you do for the pro's on this site: $0.00, less than the proverbial two cents. My free advice is: Don't spend money on the Paint Shop System. If you absolutely have to shoot some lacquer, go to www.PaintForCars.com -- they sell three dozen colors for $79-85 a gallon and that's not thinned. I have two gallons of their gloss black that could get you started. I sure don't want it.

I was born in 1944, before the first Hot Rod Magazine was published and my first hot rods and customs were plastic and made by Revell and AMT. Painted those with sable brushes and tiny bombs of candy apple enamel (I assume they were enamel because lacquer would have melted the styrene plastic). In 1962 I painted my real car, a í56 Chevy, with a nylon brush and red devil enamel. Had to do it at night, after work, in the driveway. Probably would have turned out better if it hadnít started snowing halfway through. Paint was old so I couldnít read the instructions. Probably wouldnít have followed them if I could. After all those model cars, I was an experienced painter.

Had there been little foam paint rollers back then, I probably would have copied the Hot Rod Magazine article on painting a Ď62 Falcon with Rust-Oleum and a roller (thatís from a 2009 issue). If price is the objective, they managed to paint the Falcon for $98 and that price included masking tape, sandpaper and a bunch of stuff not mentioned in the DupliColor process. The two quarts of Rust-Oleum and gallon of thinner came to $22.91. If you really don't care what the car looks like, spending $100 seems like a better deal than the DupliColor. Especially if you don't have a compressor, spray gun or mask. Hot Rod's process didn't even require priming or clear coating. Looked about as good as that Bronco on "Trucks" but the Falcon had a red scallop rather than black and gray lighning bolts.

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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2009, 08:24 PM
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That's what some of us have been trying say, that the pre-thinned Dupli-Color is a gimmick and is NOT cheap! I harp on this stuff so much because I see the same mistake I was making years ago (that and it keeps popping up in my E-mail ) being touted as being cheap, which it is not, and somehow "new and improved" when even the manufacturer makes no such claims. There could be several reasons to use Lacquer but the user does not need to be mis-informed by dubious claims from a goofy TV show and the decision should be made while being well aware of Lacquer's many shortcomings. If the decision is made to use Lacquer then at least go to a real paint supplier and get the right material that can be properly thinned with the right amounts of the right thinner to meet current spray conditions and needs, THERE JUST AIN'T NO ONE SIZE FITS ALL! Plus as you correctly point out buying the proper material packaged as it should be will not only be better it will be a lot cheaper than the Dupli-Color sucker bait.
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2009, 02:14 AM
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LOL, What your forgetting is how it fits the market and is not intended for the pro or semi pro but the guy that has zero skills!!!! that does want to paint with out the big learning curve!! A job he can do in his garage. I can see a ton of reason Why! You don't need any fancy equipment booth or offend the guy next door with the smell. Price don't seem to be a tolal factor to the people I have talk to. Oh yes they know there are better product out there. But there response was it was easy I didn't have to do a lot to paint! The answer to the how good it was is it ok. I said how come you didn't go to a cheap paint shop well they though the work man ship was less that fair and felt they could do a better job for the money.
On a side not I notices the price has jumped up from 19.00 a Qt to 22.00 a Qt
I assume its selling well!! based on the price jump. Its just a matter of time before someone else jump in to counter this with there own product!!

Craig
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2009, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Heine
I used the Dupli-Color Paint Shop system to refurbish a white fiberglass chair about two years ago. It looks great but it�s an indoor chair that probably won�t get into any fender-benders in the guest room. I bought the primer, base and clearcoat but only used the primer and base. I like the flat white because it doesn�t show the flaws. I used more than a pint of primer and another pint of white and it seems to have covered OK. Had to sand the white to get rid of a bug that flew through the spray. Easy fix but there isn�t a very thick paint film. Buffing paint that thin more than once seems like a recipe for disaster (unless you like shiny bare steel). They hint at this problem in Step 4-- Apply Clear Coat. "Apply as many coats as necessary to achieve desired gloss. Additional film build-up is required if you plan to cut and buff the final finish..." Uh, this is lacquer, how else do you get it to shine. Back in the 60's I touched up the scratches on my 47 Ford with spray black lacquer and it looked terrible until I wet sanded and polished it.

The instructions in Step 5 on the can hint at the durability of this paint system. You have to "buff with a random orbital waxer/polisher using a wool buffing pad and 1500 grit rubbing compound..." The instructions specifically state "Do not use a high-speed buffer as they are too agressive and will damage the paint surface."

No one has ever paid me to paint a car so I guess I can't be considered a professional. However, you pay the exact same price for my advice as you do for the pro's on this site: $0.00, less than the proverbial two cents. My free advice is: Don't spend money on the Paint Shop System. If you absolutely have to shoot some lacquer, go to www.PaintForCars.com -- they sell three dozen colors for $79-85 a gallon and that's not thinned. I have two gallons of their gloss black that could get you started. I sure don't want it.

I was born in 1944, before the first Hot Rod Magazine was published and my first hot rods and customs were plastic and made by Revell and AMT. Painted those with sable brushes and tiny bombs of candy apple enamel (I assume they were enamel because lacquer would have melted the styrene plastic). In 1962 I painted my real car, a �56 Chevy, with a nylon brush and red devil enamel. Had to do it at night, after work, in the driveway. Probably would have turned out better if it hadn�t started snowing halfway through. Paint was old so I couldn�t read the instructions. Probably wouldn�t have followed them if I could. After all those model cars, I was an experienced painter.

Had there been little foam paint rollers back then, I probably would have copied the Hot Rod Magazine article on painting a �62 Falcon with Rust-Oleum and a roller (that�s from a 2009 issue). If price is the objective, they managed to paint the Falcon for $98 and that price included masking tape, sandpaper and a bunch of stuff not mentioned in the DupliColor process. The two quarts of Rust-Oleum and gallon of thinner came to $22.91. If you really don't care what the car looks like, spending $100 seems like a better deal than the DupliColor. Especially if you don't have a compressor, spray gun or mask. Hot Rod's process didn't even require priming or clear coating. Looked about as good as that Bronco on "Trucks" but the Falcon had a red scallop rather than black and gray lighning bolts.
I don't know if you saw the Dupicolor Challenge on TV where they had pro's paint custom cars with there paints??
Different shops competed to see who could come up with the best Idea's with the paints!!
Them guy did some super work with this paint. A very smart marketing move I believe.

Craig
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2009, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brown37
Some of the other posts have said that lacquer is no safer than acrylics because of you get high off the fumes. Are you not using a mask? I hope no one on this thread is using any paint without protection. Lacquers are safer to use because the do not have ISO's in them. ALL PAINT IS BAD TO BREATH. I looked up the MSD for a bc/cc. and the manufacture said to use full hood with fresh air supply because of the ISO's.

Lacquer can be sprayed safely with a canister face mask(new canisters), protective clothing and ventilation wheres as bc/cc require a fresh air supply.

Am I wrong?
NO! your not wrong! Safer yes for sure! You posts made my point to the tee!
I agree on your reason for using the product and when you have the cash for the bc/cc you can have it done Perfect!

AZ is not up there with CA yet but if you paint and get turned in then your have the city to deal with. A factor that seems to escape this post you need a booth with Other paints Dup Lacquer you don't.

Craig
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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2010, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyTruckGuy
LOL, What your forgetting is how it fits the market and is not intended for the pro or semi pro but the guy that has zero skills!!!! that does want to paint with out the big learning curve!! A job he can do in his garage. I can see a ton of reason Why! You don't need any fancy equipment booth or offend the guy next door with the smell. Price don't seem to be a tolal factor to the people I have talk to. Oh yes they know there are better product out there. But there response was it was easy I didn't have to do a lot to paint! The answer to the how good it was is it ok. I said how come you didn't go to a cheap paint shop well they though the work man ship was less that fair and felt they could do a better job for the money.
On a side not I notices the price has jumped up from 19.00 a Qt to 22.00 a Qt
I assume its selling well!! based on the price jump. Its just a matter of time before someone else jump in to counter this with there own product!!

Craig
ChevyTruckGuy,

I totally agree. Those are some of the exact reason I choose to us it.

I finally was able to use the dupli color on a headlight bucket and it turn out very good.

I set up a home made spray booth to try and keep the dirt and dust off as I painted.

I used a hvlp gun from harbor freight(1.4 tip) set at 30 lbs. Temp was about 70. I sprayed 3 light coats of the primer, then wet sand with 400 grit. I then sprayed 3 light coats of color and 5 light coats of clear and then color sanded again with 1500 and 2000 grit followed by buffing using a low speed buffer.

I can not see how it could look any better. I did not have any flaws except some minor orange peel.

Don
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2010, 03:19 AM
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Nice, I did about the samething with my test panel. It was about 110 out side and 70's in the garage. If you get a chance post some pic's.

Craig
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
That's one of the "economy" paints I referred to and there are others any of which is far more durable than lacquer. I use implement enamel and hardener from Tractor Supply on rebuilt tractors and although I personally would not use it to paint a car I know for a fact it is more durable and will last longer than Lacquer. For a beater, an ATV or something of that nature the stuff would probably be a decent way to paint really cheap and while the color selection might be kind of small it certainly could be made to look good if cost is that much of a concern-certainly a heck of a lot cheaper than Dupli-Color!
oldred, havent much of a clue to what im doing but want to paint my 95 mercury tracer that i use to drive 330 to 500 miles a day as a courier for parts with the implement enamel. painted my 70 chevy k10 with rustoleum and hardener few yrs ago didnt work real good but kept it well protected for a long time. never buffed it though. How well do you think this will work with the tractor implement paint? i already plan on wet sanding ALOT. I dont have any knowledge bout where to start with any body work. Have any tips for someone new? Seen the dupi paint n i can get a 25% discount n wont buy the junk. Figure i can paint the whole car with one Quart of paint small can of hardener and a quart of napthma. For a GRAND TOTAL of $32. n i figure i could get the napthma for free if i really tried. then it would be $24. LOL. I read it all n thought for a while maybe ctg had a point bout ease of use but it aint so. Let the lazy sob's waste there money.
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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 07:48 AM
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go to a tractor place that has tractors in a color you like. and buy the paint and hardener.. you will want a gallon of paint and a quart of hardner to do your car. should last a while if you take care of it.. but there are some economy acrylic enamel auto paints that are not much more than the tractor/ impliment paints, but there all mail order so you have some shipping costs ontop of that..

don't get the rustoleum 'specialty' enamel from the hardware store. it's just Rustoleum in the correct colors to match the tractors
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2010, 07:26 PM
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Specifics, please

The opinion of the body shop pro's about PAINT SHOP lacquer carries weight. But please, give us some specifics about why you reject the paint. It's not enough just to say..."lacquer sucks" or "we tried it and threw out the left over (Jeff)."

What EXACTLY is the problem with this paint? The application process? The finish? The consistency? The durability? Let us in on the secret, folks. Some detail (and hard evidence) would help alleviate the lingering doubt that the body shop pro's have a dog in the fight against the do-it-yourselfers.
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2010, 01:00 AM
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I am a DYI guy myself these days and as far as the Duplicolor for one it does not cover as well so I need to buy more paint than i would if I use a quality material so my expense is more..One of the hard lessons learned. another thing is the durablity as it is just as much work to do the prep work for dupli-color as it is to prep for quality material..another hard lesson learned..I have found that with careful shopping I can get the primer..the clear and the base for an all-over for about 450/550 plus sandpaper and masking and other sundries.. and it is just as much work to do the prep for good stuff as it is the other stuff and the most of the work is in the prep so why not use good pro quality material???

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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2010, 06:35 AM
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How can Duplicolor be easier than say ss/au?
Lacquer shows sanding scratches very easily,so you have to make sure your sanding is a good as if not better than if you were using ss au.
Nothing easier there...
Lacquer needs polishing, so to polish it you need a film thinkness adequate to polish as polishing removes paint.
ss /au does not need polishing, but if you mess it up and it is a solid color then cut and buff works, just make sure you have adequate film
Nothing easier there...
Lacquer will require much maintainence. SS /AU will not require any maintainence
Nothing easier there....
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2010, 10:13 AM
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red , dont you find it strange that his first post is on an old thread long dead ?
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2010, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinkagain
The opinion of the body shop pro's about PAINT SHOP lacquer carries weight. But please, give us some specifics about why you reject the paint. It's not enough just to say..."lacquer sucks" or "we tried it and threw out the left over (Jeff)."

What EXACTLY is the problem with this paint? The application process? The finish? The consistency? The durability? Let us in on the secret, folks. Some detail (and hard evidence) would help alleviate the lingering doubt that the body shop pro's have a dog in the fight against the do-it-yourselfers.
As I've said before, I'm not a pro. I'm a cheapskate who hates to waste money. I'll use an analogy: Sliced Bread paint company comes out with a sprayable exterior latex house paint. The demo shows that it sprays on easy and it looks just as good as the best latex you can buy. Only difference is that it's half water. They've thinned the paint for you and charged the same price -- OK, they're 15% cheaper.

Let's say I want to put 4 coats of primer on my ready-to-paint car (holes and dents filled, everything as straight as I can get it). My rule of thumb is that it takes one quart of sprayable paint per coat.

Examples:

1. Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.com/checkout/cart.aspx

$ 79.80 4 quarts Duplicolor lacquer primer @ $19.95
9.95 Ground shipping - 1 week?
$ 89.75

2. Southern Polyurethanes Inc. (SPI) http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm

$ 29.30 Quart of epoxy primer
29.30 Quart of activator
31.70 Gallon of reducer
0.00 2-day shipping
$ 90.30

For 55-cents I receive two extra quarts of reducer for gun cleaning.

Of course reducing SPI's epoxy primer 100% goes against all advice and is something I wouldn't do but I'm pretty sure it would have the same build and film thickness as the DupliColor lacquer primer.

If you really believe 4 coats of thinned lacquer primer is as good as 2 coats of SPI epoxy you should go with the thinned lacquer and save the 55-cents (put it toward some lacquer thinner).
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2011, 09:12 AM
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bob , the guy is a troll out marketing duplicolor . either that or one of the same posters under another name. i'm still waiting to see one of these super wammy jobs done with it.
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