I used the Dupli-Color Paint Shop system to refurbish a white fiberglass chair about two years ago. It looks great but it�s an indoor chair that probably won�t get into any fender-benders in the guest room. I bought the primer, base and clearcoat but only used the primer and base. I like the flat white because it doesn�t show the flaws. I used more than a pint of primer and another pint of white and it seems to have covered OK. Had to sand the white to get rid of a bug that flew through the spray. Easy fix but there isn�t a very thick paint film. Buffing paint that thin more than once seems like a recipe for disaster (unless you like shiny bare steel). They hint at this problem in Step 4-- Apply Clear Coat. "Apply as many coats as necessary to achieve desired gloss. Additional film build-up is required if you plan to cut and buff the final finish..." Uh, this is lacquer, how else do you get it to shine. Back in the 60's I touched up the scratches on my 47 Ford with spray black lacquer and it looked terrible until I wet sanded and polished it.
The instructions in Step 5 on the can hint at the durability of this paint system. You have to "buff with a random orbital waxer/polisher using a wool buffing pad and 1500 grit rubbing compound..." The instructions specifically state "Do not use a high-speed buffer as they are too agressive and will damage the paint surface."
No one has ever paid me to paint a car so I guess I can't be considered a professional. However, you pay the exact same price for my advice as you do for the pro's on this site: $0.00, less than the proverbial two cents. My free advice is: Don't spend money on the Paint Shop System. If you absolutely have to shoot some lacquer, go to www.PaintForCars.com
-- they sell three dozen colors for $79-85 a gallon and that's not thinned. I have two gallons of their gloss black that could get you started. I sure don't want it.
I was born in 1944, before the first Hot Rod Magazine was published and my first hot rods and customs were plastic and made by Revell and AMT. Painted those with sable brushes and tiny bombs of candy apple enamel (I assume they were enamel because lacquer would have melted the styrene plastic). In 1962 I painted my real car, a �56 Chevy, with a nylon brush and red devil enamel. Had to do it at night, after work, in the driveway. Probably would have turned out better if it hadn�t started snowing halfway through. Paint was old so I couldn�t read the instructions. Probably wouldn�t have followed them if I could. After all those model cars, I was an experienced painter.
Had there been little foam paint rollers back then, I probably would have copied the Hot Rod Magazine article on painting a �62 Falcon with Rust-Oleum and a roller (that�s from a 2009 issue). If price is the objective, they managed to paint the Falcon for $98 and that price included masking tape, sandpaper and a bunch of stuff not mentioned in the DupliColor process. The two quarts of Rust-Oleum and gallon of thinner came to $22.91. If you really don't care what the car looks like, spending $100 seems like a better deal than the DupliColor. Especially if you don't have a compressor, spray gun or mask. Hot Rod's process didn't even require priming or clear coating. Looked about as good as that Bronco on "Trucks" but the Falcon had a red scallop rather than black and gray lighning bolts.