Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/)
-   Body - Exterior (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/)
-   -   Dura Glas then epoxy (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/dura-glas-then-epoxy-74199.html)

robs ss 11-17-2005 12:25 PM

Dura Glas then epoxy
 
If I use 36 grit to rough up bare metal, wouldn't it be better to put the dura glas over that then spray ppg epoxy over that, or epoxy first then dura glas, if I do the dura glas over the epoxy in the time frame, what about shrinkage or solvent evaporation, I'm thinking.
36 grit bare metal
dura glas
epoxy
wait a week then sand the epoxy with 180 or red scotch brite
then evercoat filler
then k-38
this is on the bottom of the floor pans because I want them perfect

Any help here would really be appreciated, thank you in advance
Rob

http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

roger1 11-17-2005 01:35 PM

Epoxy has the best adhesion to metal. Sand the bare metal with 80 then epoxy it.

robs ss 11-17-2005 02:34 PM

dura glas then epoxy
 
Thank you roger1, how long to wait after the epoxy is on, any shrinkage from the epoxy drying.
Rob

roger1 11-17-2005 03:30 PM

I would use the P-sheet recommendations on dry time.
Shrinkage isn't a problem since it cures instead of dries.

robs ss 11-17-2005 06:18 PM

dura glas then epoxy
 
Checked out your web site of cars, nice stuff you got there.
Any body else on this subject.
Rob

kenseth17 11-17-2005 06:41 PM

Sounds like your making progress on those floor pans rob. I agree with roger to epoxy first and do filler work over that. Either way is acceptable, when I learned body repair they taught us to grind to baremetal and do filler work or the bare metal, but many put down a coat of epoxy first. Like roger said epoxy has good adhesion to metal, and filler good adhesion to epoxy. This is an accepted procedure if the primer is epoxy. Plus if you have a lot of areas to do, its nice to get some epoxy on the baremetal spots right away so its not exposed for awhile. Epoxy usually doesn't completely cure for a few days, but I always scuff it if its the next day that I am applying filler, Doesn't take much to scratch it up a little with some 80 or 180 grit before putting on filler.

robs ss 11-18-2005 10:15 AM

Dura Glas then Epoxy
 
Thats two and o for epoxy first, hows it going kenseth

Rob

GRN69CHV 11-18-2005 02:36 PM

I filled my roof seams and a couple of deeper dents with E-C glass filler, also used some Metal to Metal filler in areas - all on bare metal. Sealed everything with epoxy, the used my Rage filler to surface, then 2K.

MARTINSR 11-18-2005 03:25 PM

The only recommendation I have is loose the Duraglass. My God, that is WAY too much work. Unless you are trying to create some sort of "structual" strength or something, just use regular old filler.

Use the filler on things that need a lot of filling, sand it with 80 or even 40 so you don't have to work too hard and then polyester prime the whole shooting match. You then can sand that polyester primer to PERFECTION and have the most beautiful floor that side of the Mississippi. :)

Brian

kenseth17 11-18-2005 03:35 PM

Oops, double post

kenseth17 11-18-2005 03:36 PM

Yeah, your right Brian, duraglass is a lot of work if you try sanding it, but I am assuming he is using it on a butt welded area or something similar. I always like to put fiberglass filler down first when smoothing a welded seam, of course it just hit the fiberglass with a grinder to flatten and don't really sand it unless I have to, then use plastic filler over the top and sand that. Maybe just a skim coat of fiberglass in case any little pinhole in the weld, but be neat so you don't give yourself a lot of work.
Its going good Rob, finally found a job, been there a month now and was just told I got a small raise.

robs ss 11-18-2005 07:53 PM

Dura Glas then epoxy
 
Brian, so what you're saying is put the filler over bare metal, then spray epoxy over that, then I will wait a few days then scuff the epoxy then spray k-38 then sand then paint it, this is the underbody.
Thanks Rob
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

robs ss 11-18-2005 07:59 PM

Dura Glas then epoxy
 
GRN69SHV, well thats two and two epoxy first and epoxy last, hows it going. Rob

MARTINSR 11-18-2005 09:41 PM

No Rob, spraying the epoxy first is going to give you the best foundation for the filler.

This is my concern with the Dynaglass. It is very hard sanding, it fills like a mutha Hubbard but sands like a brick. If you are working on what I picture it (a photo would be nice) I see lots of body lines and things that are on the typical floor to strengthen it from flexing. Sanding around that stuff is the worse, holy crap you wear your finger prints off.

Regular filler like RAGE will sand much easier, if you apply the epoxy first you have a corrosion fighting base for it, then after you sand it you apply a urethane or polyester primer.

AGAIN, polyester primer is for serious filling, you may not need it. But as I said, I picture this complex hand sanding around lumps and lines and brackets and such that I have on floors. If you don't have this where you are doing the actual smoothing of your weld seams, then skip the polyester primer. Just sand the filler with a finer paper, and use a urethane primer over the whole thing. Sand it all smooth and paint.

If you have a lot of this hand sanding, you could save a lot of finger tips by sanding it with coarse paper (much faster cutting) and then polyester prime it, then sand that with a finer paper to paint. Or you could even just apply the polyester primer over the area where the filler is, sand it with 180, filling and surfacing all the scratches and pin holes and what not in the filler. Then urethane prime the whole thing, sand that and paint.

Brian

robs ss 11-19-2005 04:35 AM

Dura Glas then epoxy
 
Thank you Brian.

Rob


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:12 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.