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Old 10-04-2010, 09:11 PM
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Duraspark II ignition Q's

you guys on here helped me out big time the last thread i posted so i figured you might all have the info i need this time around also..

i bought a 351w for 50$ off a guy i know last week. engine sat outside and is in OK condition. it looks to me that the dizzy is a stock ford duraspark II type. the truck it came out of was apparently a 86 which is right around the last of the duraspark II before they went with TFI-IV to my knowledge. the truck its going in had a 300 with the TFI-IV ign. system in it so in order to get this duraspark ign. working im obv. going to have to buy a n ignition module for it. heres where the problem lies..

i know there was at least three duraspark modules that ford had, yellow, brown, and blue grommet ones i think. apparently the brown ones were some special emmitions type (maybe cali version?) and blue had a certain start dwell ingition timing control for easier starting. yellow i have no info on. is there a huge difference in what module i would be running? also ive heard its beneficial to run a motorcraft one as the cheapy ones from advanced auto that go for 30$ tend not to last very well as ive heard.

what do you think is my best option for getting this together cheap and hopefully reliable? obv. the easier routh is to go to advanced but if its really that much of a piece of garbage ill stick with a motorcraft one and dig one up somewhere.. any help is greatly appreciated as always!

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Old 10-05-2010, 12:02 AM
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there is a way to wire them to a Chevrolet HEI modual. just zip tie them to an old pc heat sink, with some cheap thermal compound, and create a mount for it if you wish
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:57 AM
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you think the 4 pin hei modules are better then the duraspark ones? the advnatage i would think that the hei module has is that you dont need a ballest resistor cause the module monitors it and adjusts it internally so youd be getting full 12v to the coil most of the time
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:46 PM
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Duraspark 2 used the blue module
Duraspark 3 was Brown for computer controlled cars but will run on duraspark 2 if you change 2 wires

The yellow module has an extra connector it was for altitude compensation on early computer models
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:09 PM
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that pretty much clears that all up ha. ill give it a shot though considering ive heard its way better and the module is cheaper and apearently more reliable then the advance auto duraspark modules, or any non-motorcraft one.

thanks for help guys
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:39 AM
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can i convert a 1982 continental TBI 302 to GM HEI somehow? it is holley TBI with a crank sensor at the balancer. no sensor or wires in distrib at all

and it has issues dying stalling backfiring when trying to drive it, but runs fine not in gear,
sick of trying to figure this junk out,.


if so how exactly?

what do i do with which wires and where?

i have lots of GM HEI distribs and modules and so on around here....

i hope someone here is a tbi 302 guru and know what im talking about.

i havent found anyone yet who knows what fuel and ignition type this continental has. apparently it was rare.

can the ford crank sensor act as my pickup coil since the crank has trigger teeth on that thing behind the balancer?

it is a 2 wire one just like the GM pickup coils have.

how else could i get a pickup mounted to the ford engine, or to the ford distrib?

whata bout signal voltage? are the close enough to same?

i imagine the ECM needs to know engine pickup positionis in order to fire the holley TBI injectors

does the ford ignition box have anything to do with firing injectors?











thanks

Last edited by fast68; 10-06-2010 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:53 PM
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Do yourself a favor and go to the u pullit yard and get an ignition module for it or go to napa.
Are you even sure it needs a module?
Napa used to have the equiptment to test them.
I wouldnt mess around with adapting a module from a gm. even if it runs things arent electrically "matched " and it may die after a few minutes or you could fry some parts (like the ecm) that are ok and never know (unless for the smoke maybe)
The gray and the blue wire at the crank sensor are the two for the signal generation. The 3rd (Black) is a ground or shield for electrical noise suppresion. Hook your dvom and put it too say 500 millivolt scale should be close enough.Or if you have a fluke (like me) it is automatic.hook it with hands free arrangement and turn the engine over and look for a reading.

Have you ever looked at the wiring harness for that thing? The powertrain harness jumps from the firewall to the engine near the back of the motor.I would take a real good look at it. those cars had lots of trouble with the wiring and the connectors at the engine/ firewall area and some of the harnesses would even corrode inside the insulation. Look the wiring over good especially back at the rear of the engine.
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:05 PM
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^ what latech said is your best bet. dont try to swap parts without knowing whats wrong with the ign in the first place cause you very well might make yourself even more of headache by screwing up something else. listen to his advice and check the wires and everything first. unplug the connectors for the ignition system and follow the wires and continunity and resistence test all of them to make sure theres no physical issues in the wires specially if the harness is all over the place. if that checks out ok find another ign module from a scrap yard or napa or whatever and give it a shot. also, go to autozones website, they have pretty decent wiring diagrams for free in the tech help section. its saved me in a pinch many times
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:11 PM
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Be sure to get the duraspark 3 diagram . that was used on early tbi and the Variable venturi carb. The pcm is different for the VV also so dont try to use a pcm from that if you are thinking about it. also the diagram is different from the tbi
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:25 PM
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you can buy a dist. set-up that is Ford base with GM HEI top new for around $50 on ebay. I have used them and they work great.
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blyne3
you can buy a dist. set-up that is Ford base with GM HEI top new for around $50 on ebay. I have used them and they work great.
I would think that would be OK and it would be pretty easy to trouble shoot if it failed. But when the electronic control module comes into play its a whole new ballgame as the ecm controls the timing and the dizzy you are talking about have flyweights for mechanical and a vacuum chamber for vacuum advance of the timing.It may work even so but before you throw the switch and turn it on it had better be electrically configured properly or the majic smoke may come out.
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:38 PM
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He could do away with the ecm all together and put a motorcraft carb on the intake(bolt pattern is the same) and a duraspark 2 ignition. I have done it but you will need to put a low pressure elecric pump for a carb or change the tank sending unit alltogether to a regualer unit.Then pt a mechanical pump on the engine. You may have to pull the timing cover(and changeit) and put a cam eccentric for a fuel pump.
Its quite a bit of work.then you will also have to the transmission throttle pressure link to the carb as it will need to be modified to work properly.
I have done this but its a lot of work.Probably easier to fix the efi thats on it.
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