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Old 06-28-2006, 07:41 AM
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Dyno tuning Process HELP!

Well our project car is done and we took it to the drag strip with not so good results. Car ran 13.4 at 102mph (see Journal for car) at about 4000 rpm it seemed to stop pulling rpm kept going up but it was not making power.

We have decided to take it to a dyno and tune it but the local dyno shop does not do any tuning. They provide someone to run the dyno but no input on tuning.

What I am looking for is a recomended process to go through for tuning an engine on a dyno I have searched everywhere and can not find any step by step process anywhere.

Thanks
Ric

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Old 06-28-2006, 08:10 AM
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How about some details on the engine and drivetrain?
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:29 AM
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info

what he said...

Give us everything you can...

Keith
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:30 AM
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Ok but not sure why. What I am looking for is a step by step procedure to follow on the dyno to get optimum tuning without going around in circles.

Something like

1. do base line pull
2. adjust timing up or down 2 degrees and do pull
3. adjust primary jets 2 sizes up do pull

etc.

Anyway here are the specs.
383 cubic inch small block chevy (5.7 rods 400 crank reground)

10.6 :1 compression ratio

Heads are World Products SR with 1.94 1.5 valves bowls ported, runners
ported to 190 CC

Cam is Comp cams xe 284h
Camshaft Part # 12-250-3 Designation XE284H-10
Duration @ 0.006" 284 / 296 Duration @ 0.050" 240 / 246
Max Lift w/ 1.5RR .507 / .510 Lobe Separation 110

Carb is 650 Mighty demon

Intake is Air gap

exhaust headers into 3 inch y pipe

3 inch cut out

3 inch catco converter into 2 3/4 cat back.

I guess if someone would like to do a desk top dyno run for me that would be really great and give me a comparison number when I hit the real dyno.

Thanks
Ric
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:05 AM
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A lot of the process with vary depending on what information the dyno is giving you, and how your interpret the information. Without know what information they're going to give you it would be impossible to make a true game plan. Sort of like saying we're going to start out a football game with 10 straight passes when the defense has no body on the line.

The shop you're working with most likely has the policy they have so that they are not responsible if anything happens to your engine, but you may want to try and find another shop that will be a little more helpful. The operator is going to have a better idea of how their equipment runs, and what adjustments to make based upon what they see than you are.
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Old 06-28-2006, 02:31 PM
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Prior to the dyno pulls make written notes of all the baseline data such as jetting and timing. Buy a jet kit, or have them handy for the sizes you think you'll need, -8 to +8 at a minumum.

With the air fuel probe hooked up make a base pull.

Note the fuel curve throughout the pull. A safe starting point to shoot for is 12.6:1. Also note the variation in the fuel curve from bottom to top. As much as possible you want it even. Jet accordingly to get the fuel mixture correct. As you jet up or down overlay the dyno pulls and note changes across the curve, dont' look at just the peak. Unless the car runs pig fat and slopply under cruise and hwy driving your jetting will concentrate on the secondaries. If low spreed and low load carburation is not good you need to dial that in prior to the dyno, since all pulls will be wide open.

Check base timing and start with 2 degrees less. Make pull, note change and adjust as the data indicates, up, down whatever the data tells you. Small changes make large differences sometimes. Pay attention to the overall curve, don't look at just the peak.

As you get closer to optimum tune do plug checks to make sure the engine is still happy.

After the tune is optimized note where your peak torque is and your peak HP. Also note how HP falls off past peak. This will build a picture for you to go off of on your shift events.

There is no way to do a dyno simulation on that motor that's worth beans. you need to post the flow data on the cylinder heads.
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:11 PM
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desk top dyno 2000 figures 429hp @ 5500 torque was like 433lb @ 5500 but without every detail thats a close figure.
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick WI
Prior to the dyno pulls make written notes of all the baseline data such as jetting and timing. Buy a jet kit, or have them handy for the sizes you think you'll need, -8 to +8 at a minumum.

With the air fuel probe hooked up make a base pull.

Note the fuel curve throughout the pull. A safe starting point to shoot for is 12.6:1. Also note the variation in the fuel curve from bottom to top. As much as possible you want it even. Jet accordingly to get the fuel mixture correct. As you jet up or down overlay the dyno pulls and note changes across the curve, dont' look at just the peak. Unless the car runs pig fat and slopply under cruise and hwy driving your jetting will concentrate on the secondaries. If low spreed and low load carburation is not good you need to dial that in prior to the dyno, since all pulls will be wide open.

Check base timing and start with 2 degrees less. Make pull, note change and adjust as the data indicates, up, down whatever the data tells you. Small changes make large differences sometimes. Pay attention to the overall curve, don't look at just the peak.

As you get closer to optimum tune do plug checks to make sure the engine is still happy.

After the tune is optimized note where your peak torque is and your peak HP. Also note how HP falls off past peak. This will build a picture for you to go off of on your shift events.

There is no way to do a dyno simulation on that motor that's worth beans. you need to post the flow data on the cylinder heads.

Thanks for the reply that is just the type of information I was looking for. I will post results next week dyno is scheduled for Wednesday July 5

Ric
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_baller4692
desk top dyno 2000 figures 429hp @ 5500 torque was like 433lb @ 5500 but without every detail thats a close figure.

Thanks for the work in running the simulation. Curious as to what informatin you used for the heads. If we get 400 horsepower and 400 torque I will be very very happy. I will post results next week

Thanks again
Ric
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:48 AM
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I just used low performance pocket ported heads but i did try better heads power was real close all the way through the simulation.
just wondered what rearend gear,tire diameter,and trans are you running?
to me if the rpm's are still rising and the cars not pulling threw out the run you have the wrong gear ratio.
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_baller4692
I just used low performance pocket ported heads but i did try better heads power was real close all the way through the simulation.
just wondered what rearend gear,tire diameter,and trans are you running?
to me if the rpm's are still rising and the cars not pulling threw out the run you have the wrong gear ratio.

tire is mT street slicks I think 26.5 X10
Transmission is a T5 with centerforce clutch
And rear end is a 9 bolt posi with 3.27 gears

The 5 speed seems to make up for the lack of higher gears off the line. Tires spin in first (have to let off to get traction) tire spins at shift to 2nd have to let off again. Tires chirp going into third.

Ric
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Old 11-25-2006, 05:27 PM
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Just to let you know what happened. And I know this is way late I just couldn't bear to tell everyone what happened.

Well here it is. We got to the dyno shop and set her up. ran the first pull and the rpm sensor vibrated off the mount and we did not get results over 3500 rpm. it was about 340 hp when it fell off.

Tried a couple more pulls but the sensor which has a magnetic mount kept vibrating off and would not read rpm. Finally decided to run it without the sensor.

Got to 6500 rpm and spun a rod bearing. NO RESULTS NO MOTOR and a $120 bill to tow the car home.

Motor is rebuilt now with new fully balanced rotating assembly kit. (pretty sure balance was the problem on the last engine.) Car is running very very strong now. (We also went for a new set of Dart aluminum heads to replace the home ported cast Iron we had).

Probable hit the dyno again in the spring (wanted to break the engine in first with some driving, too much snow for that now)

Ric
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Old 11-25-2006, 05:46 PM
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What fuel pump are you running?? Maybe it can't keep up?
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:28 PM
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Engine balance jobs doesn't usually cause spun bearings. The rods being pulled oblong because of heavy piston do. So does the lack of oil at speed. Which was probably the culprit.
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:51 AM
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Dyno Help

I dont know if your aware of the guys at Mustang Dynamometer, but they should be able to help.

www.mustangdyne.com

They are very knowledgable and build about 100 dyno's a month.

Plus, they are highly respected, trusted, been around for 25 years and build a high quality unit at a decent price.

Good luck.

Plasmabob
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