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Old 10-02-2008, 10:04 PM
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E-85 hotrod

Hi,I am running e-85 in my small block chevy with A.F.R. aluminium heads.This engine has 5 dyno pulls on it then remved from dyno put in car and not fired up for one month.The valve seats formed a small amount of rust on them requiring me to remove the heads and scotch brite the seats and relapp the valves in.My question is,when I start to drive this car,will I have to put a topend lube in the fuel or just fire it up on gasoline to purge the system of e-85.The car may sit a couple days or maybe a couple of weeks at a time without being driven.What special precautions am I going to have to take with this semi/daily driver?All help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks Redline

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Old 10-02-2008, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline racer
Hi,I am running e-85 in my small block chevy with A.F.R. aluminium heads.This engine has 5 dyno pulls on it then remved from dyno put in car and not fired up for one month.The valve seats formed a small amount of rust on them requiring me to remove the heads and scotch brite the seats and relapp the valves in.My question is,when I start to drive this car,will I have to put a topend lube in the fuel or just fire it up on gasoline to purge the system of e-85.The car may sit a couple days or maybe a couple of weeks at a time without being driven.What special precautions am I going to have to take with this semi/daily driver?All help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks Redline
I have a question. How did you know the valve seats had rust ("requiring me to pull the heads"). If the car sits a couple of weeksat a time , I would install a pre-oiler (establishes oil pressure prior to cranking).
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:15 PM
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Hello Redline Racer; and welcome.
I for, one am a bit cofused as to what the current status of the engine and vehicle are, due to the way your information is dispersed. Namely:
Quote:
I am running e-85 in my small block chevy with A.F.R. aluminium heads
Should we take this to mean that you are already using E85 for some time now, or are PLANNING TO run it?
Quote:
My question is,when I start to drive this car,will I have to put a topend lube in the fuel or just fire it up on gasoline to purge the system of e-85.
This statement is a bit hard to understand, as you mention gasoline and E85 in the same sentence.
Quote:
What special precautions am I going to have to take with this semi/daily driver?
From this statement, one would be led to believe that you haven't yet made the conversion, or did but hadn't researched it first as to what may be required. Can you elaborate a bit more and break these statements down, so as to eliminate some of the confusion? Was this engine built and designed as a "flex-fuel" engine, and if so was the fuel system modified to support it? I don't know a great deal on this subject, but even someone whom would might have difficulty in trying to figure out where things stand right now. Please tell us more.-Jim
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:55 AM
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I for one avoided replying to this at first because I couldn't make heads from tails from the post. Thought maybe I was just misunderstanding something.

Sorry, but your post is very confusing, I'm not sure how to ask this any other way than: Can you please clarify?
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Old 10-03-2008, 07:16 AM
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E-85 hotrod 383 Chevy

I am sorry for the confusion,I will try to clarify.I am rebuilding my 42 Stude.Because of the expence involved I must do a little at a time.I collected parts for the engine over a 2 year period.The engine is finished,I had it dynoed,we made 5 pulls.The first one with a gasoline carburator,we let the engine warm up then made a full pull up to 7000 rpm. I then put the E-85 quick fuel 750 douple pumper on it.We then made 4 more pulls,clicking it off at 7000 rpm,to establish timing,and jetting.The dyno operator told me and this is hard for me to believe,but the readout says 570 ft.lbs @4800rpm & 574 hp.@ 6300 rpm.So I took the engine home,installed it in the car.The car is not finished(no trans,fuel cell etc) to do the engine wiring,rad hoses,alt.mounts etc.OK with these state of the art A.F.R. eliminator series 195 cc runner heads with the the full competition cnc porting package which includes 2.08 intake valves 1.60 ex. valves. These heads flow 300 cfm @ .600 lift.Well I thought this motor should make power beyond 6300 rpm.I spoke to Tony Mamo the genius behind R&D @ A.F.R. and decided to upgrade the valve springs.I plugged my compresser into my # 1 cyl. with the rocker arms completely off the engine,and the amount of air that was coming through the exaust port would (blow out a candle).I should note that this changing of springs was about a month and one half after the dyno pulls. As I could not imagine why the ex.was leaking so badly(the intake valve was not leaking) that I pulled the heads off the find out.There I saw slight rust forming on the ex seats.Even starting to form on the in. seats as well. I think the E-85 dried the oil off of the seats to the point that the humid midwest air caused my seats to rust.My question is,do I need to run some sort of upper end lube with E-85,like the racers who run pure methanol? I have a Canton accumulator that I am in the process of installing so I can prelube the engine before start up.This however would not affect the valve seats as they are not under pressure.I also removed the dist.and enstalled my primer to pump up the oil pressure before start up,and to prevent any damage.I plan on driving this car on the street,but it will sit a couple weeks at a time. I am aware that the alcohol in the fuel draws moisture rapidly.I figure if the car is going to sit for a week or more,I will unhook the fuel line and put in in a can of racing fuel and fire the motor till it runs on the gasoline,then shut it down so the gasoline is in the system instead of the E-85.But,my main question is...do I need to run an additive in my fuel,or just spray marvel mystery oil down the throte of the running engine,shut it off and store it.I would do this for extended storage and also drain the fuel cell and store it in a non-vented container out of the sun. If anyone can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it! I raced this ex-gasser in the eighties & early nineties with a 1967 Chevy 302,360,377.Each engine progressivley more powerful,it ran 10.90s@120 mph with the 377,20 some yrs ago with a small solid lifter cam and turbo heads. I hope I have cleared up any confusion and am sorry for any inconvieniences.Thanks,Redline Racer
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2008, 08:15 AM
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I love Mystery oil- its a great additive, but I don't think anyone knows how it will react to E-85. I would just spray it in the intake when you shut it off as you described- there's not any other more dierect easy method for applying it.
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:53 AM
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M/M oil

Thanks I appreciate the info!
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:04 PM
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I have some experience with E-85 in performance engines and there are serious corrosion issues that need to be addressed. Here is a link to a thread I posted to last year that covers some of the problems I ran into.

E85 compatible fuel filter, with fuel injection

If it's going to sit for extended periods the safest bet would be to do like the alky guys and "flush" the system with gas before putting it to bed.
I'll be glad to offer you what advice I can..

I'd love some pics of your car, I love the old gassers, especially a Studebaker!

Last edited by SlowGTA; 10-04-2008 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:20 AM
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Rude Stude

Thanks for the advice,I have pics of my stude on here under redline racer.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:20 AM
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Rude Stude

Thanks for the advice,I have pics of my stude on here under redline racer.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:20 AM
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Rude Stude

Thanks for the advice,I have pics of my stude on here under redline racer.
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:31 AM
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I think I'd have to try the upper end lube. It's a lot of hassle to have to go thru the changing fuel everytime you drive it. I wouldn't use racing gas for this process anyway....just premium gas. This is because most racing gasses don't have much in the way of upper end lubrication anyway.

Klotz makes a good upper end lube, as does Marvel.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:14 PM
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I agree that a top end lube is a good addition while using the car but it wont protect the fuel system during prolonged storage (even a week). If the fuel system is designed for alcohol from the ground up, with alcohol compatible fuel cell, lines, filter, pump, and carb you should be O.K.

If not these are some problem areas:
Rubber will be damaged almost immediately, unprotected steel will give you problems in just a few days. Aluminum depending on the type and finish varies from from a few days to being compatible for long term use. I recommend Teflon fuel lines for flexible and stainless for hard lines. Stainless fittings are best but are very expensive. Good quality aluminum can work but you really need to keep an eye on them. The filter and pump need to be specifically rated for alcohol use. I'm assuming that because your carb was made for alcohol that it would be fine.

One thing to keep in mind if this is an engine that is going to be pushed is that if fuel system components start to corrode the particles can plug filter, jets, and passages causing a lean condition that, left unchecked, can destroy the engine.

I'm not trying to be an alarmist, only trying to share my experiences and save future troubles. E85 is unfortunately not as simple as changing the jetting.

As far as changing fuel for storage it's not that hard on a carbed car. Lots of racers just keep a small fuel cell with gas in it plumbed to a selector and switch to the gas right befor shutdown. It's easy to tell when the gas has made it to the carb because it goes way rich. Then you kill the engine and your good. Only takes a minute.
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Old 10-05-2008, 06:54 PM
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E-85

I was thinking along the lines of a small fuel cell just for premium leaded fuel hooked with a fuel tank switch from a three quarter ton pickup or such.What type of switch would be best?
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