E-Coating on replacement panels - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 12:45 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Portland,Or
Posts: 838
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 43 Times in 37 Posts
Antnyl originally asked about PPG primer, even so far as to a specific color of it. He did not ask what brand of primer to use, He did not ask about SPI.

The point that bugs me is the stupid statement that you can remove PPG DPLF with lacquer thinner. That is not a normal use for this product, and to use it as a proof of its quality, or lack thereof, compared to some product that may have been designed for solvent resistance is and I will say it again STUPID!

I do not live in north Texas, but I doubt it rains lacquer thinner there. A primer's resistance to a strong solvent means nothing.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 06:31 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,298
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 503 Times in 426 Posts
You should ALWAYS take the coating of any panel that isnt a factory replacement...The chinesse cant even paint a kids toy right...
Dan ,dosen't the paint contain solvents?wouldn't that effect the cheap 1k primers? If the primer is not catyized the slovents in the 1k primer have to evaporate ,Right ? what would happen if it was painted and the paint kept the solvents trapped???? Epoxt primer is simply the bast but all primrs will work its just a matter of how long and how well...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 07:48 AM
swvalcon's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: rust on lt body shell
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: mn
Age: 64
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Lacquer thinner will remove almost any paint if you work at it long enough. I just remove any aftermarket e-coat I don't care who's it is and put down epoxy primer. I use spi but that's my chose any good epoxy will work just as well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 12:53 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SE PA
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I don't understand the lack of trust in properly applied ecoat.

Since that's the auto manufacturers use it when they build the cars, seems like it ought to be pretty good?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 01:20 PM
swvalcon's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: rust on lt body shell
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: mn
Age: 64
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
the auto manufacturer stuff is fine but I sure wouldn't trust the china junk they can't even make parts that fit.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 01:31 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: southern Virginia
Age: 62
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i agree , just do whatever you like, directions are for after it doesn't work correctly anyway, right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 05:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 211
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 9 Times in 7 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielC
Does SPI advertise on this board? Are they a supporter of this forum? Sometimes I wonder if somebody somewhere is getting a benefit by constantly pushing this product line.
What is the difference in someone recommending spi, which is a great product, and someone recommending ppg..sikkens...dupont..rm...glasurit...? I've used a fair amount of spi, but my main line is sikkens. those companies, i assure you, are mentioned 5x more than spi. Let me guess...you've never used the product?

why would you NOT want an epoxy primer on your metal that is impervious to harsh solvents like laquer thinner and brake fluid? That is your foundation to your work. If it will wipe of with laquer thinner, it is weak and will soak up solvents.......down the road this is what we call die back. topcoats sucking down into the undercoats. happens all the time, and more times than not gets blamed on the clear or base. If it is possible for thinner to break it down, it is possible for any paint or primer going over top of it to break it down and soak down into it.

AND to the O.P - I would get it off. I just dont trust anything like that, even if they say it is true edp, on exterior body panels. On my projects i usually do all sheetmetal repair and replacing...then send everything back to the blaster and have all the coating removed, no matter what. Then start with one product on the entire car, epoxy.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 06:14 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Portland,Or
Posts: 838
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 43 Times in 37 Posts
You are right, I have not used SPI. I have used PPG DPLF, the product asked about in the first post of this thread.

"why would you NOT want an epoxy primer on your metal that is impervious to harsh solvents like laquer thinner and brake fluid?"
Simply because when I am painting, I keep lacquer thinner, brake fluid, silicone sprays away from what I am painting. Could it be that this "softness" or "soaking up of solvents" be actually designed in the primer to enhance the adhesion with the next layer of paint that goes on top of it? Once again, it is the topcoat that is designed with chemical resistance in it. If primers had the chemical resistance built in to them, the topcoat would not have as good adhesion.

I would suggest if you are having problems with "topcoats sucking down" you might be applying incompatible products for your topcoats, or you are doing something else wrong. It might be a good idea to read the "compatible topcoats" section of the data sheet of whatever primer you are using.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2011, 05:22 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,298
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 503 Times in 426 Posts
I thought everybody knew that epoxy primer was the best way to go.over bare metal..
I started using it over 25yrs ago ,until then I used etch primer...
and before that lacquer....Epoxy is much better than etching primer as much as etch was better than lacquer.
I started out using PPGs DP-40 ,It worked great and I used it a few years but it was very expensive. I used almost every kind of primer and epoxy since then and found that SPI is simply the best ,not only does it preform as well as the others it has a few advantages ,mainly its sandable and buildable it can also be used as a sealer. So ,if you have time to let it cure there is no need for any other primer...That is unless your not very experianced with filler work and need a building primer to make everything straight...
What puts SPI over the top is the customer service ,a quick call to their hotline will answer any questions or solve any problems you may have....That is why everyone loves SPI. I have never experiancd any problems at all with their products but that hotline is something else...If you like PPG great but you wont once you try SPI ....I've been in this business for 35 yrs and I've never seen a company like this....do yourself a favor and try it ,then try their clear and you'll be hooked just like us dedicated and loyal customers..When so many Pros recomend the same product ,a smart man will try it....There is no advertising allowed here but lots of guys want to know what we use,like "Who makes the best replacement panels" or "what do you think of."......

Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-05-2011 at 05:28 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:31 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 134
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I thought everybody knew that epoxy primer was the best way to go.over bare metal..
I started using it over 25yrs ago ,until then I used etch primer...
and before that lacquer....Epoxy is much better than etching primer as much as etch was better than lacquer.
I started out using PPGs DP-40 ,It worked great and I used it a few years but it was very expensive. I used almost every kind of primer and epoxy since then and found that SPI is simply the best ,not only does it preform as well as the others it has a few advantages ,mainly its sandable and buildable it can also be used as a sealer. So ,if you have time to let it cure there is no need for any other primer...That is unless your not very experianced with filler work and need a building primer to make everything straight...
What puts SPI over the top is the customer service ,a quick call to their hotline will answer any questions or solve any problems you may have....That is why everyone loves SPI. I have never experiancd any problems at all with their products but that hotline is something else...If you like PPG great but you wont once you try SPI ....I've been in this business for 35 yrs and I've never seen a company like this....do yourself a favor and try it ,then try their clear and you'll be hooked just like us dedicated and loyal customers..When so many Pros recomend the same product ,a smart man will try it....There is no advertising allowed here but lots of guys want to know what we use,like "Who makes the best replacement panels" or "what do you think of."......

excellent

i feel pretty much the same way

i use a ton of aftermarket parts in my collision shop.

not once have i had any problem with the coating that comes on them.

i sand them,seal them,base,clear and kick out the door.

we live in a small town so most all of my work is repeat customers.

only a few small times i have seen die back,and i blame it manily on me rushing the job.

when you are in production work you don't always have the freakin time to sand all your aftermarket parts down bare and Epoxy

maybe i should but i guarantee all my work forever and until i start to see problems with **** coming off in sheets ill continue to keep on keepin on.


SPI rocks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:51 PM
AntnyL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 414
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Lots of good discussion here, love it! Just to clarify, my entire truck is "painted" with the PPG DPLF. I have to replace the rear fender because my son's GF accidently CRUSHED IT by backing into it. ARGGGGGGGGG! LOL. **** happens, oh well. So I need to match it to the rest of the truck. I'm not partial to PPG, it was simply readily available from my local jobber. SPI is not, so......

I know, primer doesn't make for a good finish coat. But this accident is EXACTLY why I won't topcoat it with nice shiny paint. **** happens to me.....a lot! LOL.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:24 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,298
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 503 Times in 426 Posts
Ant, PPG is good stuff and for what you want it'll work fine.if your not palnning on painting for a while,all the more reason to use epoxy...it'll hold up longest of all...I have some on cars outside for 8yrs there still well protected ,a little faded but thats it...
we have a new paint supply store that just opend up ,they sell PPG and I'm visiting them today to check them out...get some prices..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2011, 04:50 PM
AntnyL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 414
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Ant, PPG is good stuff and for what you want it'll work fine.if your not palnning on painting for a while,all the more reason to use epoxy...it'll hold up longest of all...I have some on cars outside for 8yrs there still well protected ,a little faded but thats it...
we have a new paint supply store that just opend up ,they sell PPG and I'm visiting them today to check them out...get some prices..
Thanks, dbm. I don't plan on finish-painting over the primer....ever. I dig the primer look, and low maintenance aspect of it......and when stuff happens, I won't get all aggravated about it, lol. My shiny Easter-egg paint days are over. it stays garaged, so fading shouldn't be an issue, but if it does fade, all the better!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
where to get cheap replacement panels? Bauer1287 Body - Exterior 14 01-24-2011 06:51 AM
Best replacement body panels? Hacksaw Body - Exterior 4 04-27-2009 08:02 PM
Coating on aftermarket panels ( E- coat ) Polish Painter Body - Exterior 3 03-04-2009 10:01 PM
Replacement Panels mechEcwru Body - Exterior 1 11-28-2007 01:58 PM
replacement rocker panels ArmyofOne Body - Exterior 8 01-22-2007 05:57 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.