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Old 02-09-2012, 09:08 AM
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E curve distributor n timing curve for BBC

Does anybody here have any experience with this distributor?
i ordered one for my 496 big block,seemed pretty good on paper.
I cant run a HEI style due to firewall clearance issues,also need vac advance due to 700r4 automatic.
So heres another question on timing.
Been thinking on starting at 36 to 38 total,maybe 18 or so initial n the rest mech,all in by 2800 or so,I wanted my Idle to stay at 900 or so in gear and it seems when there is no adv hooked up it just doesent wanna do that,have to go to 1400 or so for it to stay running.
Im running 11:1,Patriot heads,750 double pumper.
Cam is comp XE274H-10 Hyd Flat tappet
552in 555xhaust 230/236 duration@.050 110 LSA.
I know I need more carb,maybe 850 but for now gonna stay with current carb until I get car finished

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Old 02-09-2012, 09:47 AM
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Give it all the initial base timing it needs to idle in gear.
24-26deg ish. set up the e-curve to allow this and 36-38deg total.

( a 10-12deg advance curve)

May need a high stall converter too.

Some of the th700r4's have a very tight low stall converter.
Most of trhe cheapy hi stalls for the th700r4 trans that you will be temped to buy are just cheap in efficent restalled stock GM converters.
All they do is bend the internal fins over more to increase stall.
Very in efficient.

Get a real hi stall based on a 245MM or 258MM converter case.

www.converter.com
www.converter.cc
www.atiracing.com

11:1 compression is too much for street pump gas.

you want 10:1.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-09-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:49 AM
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Thanks Fbird ! I run 110 LL avgas,thats why I went to this static comp ratio.
I also forgot to mention that the cam came with a 4 deg adv, I timed it straight up, I had a small block in this car n I built this BB n swapped the engines,(put the SB in my P/U).
So the trans was built to take bout 400HP or so,I no sooner or later its gonna get toasted,3500 stall converter in the trans rite now.
The e curve looked pretty good to me,the dizzy I had in there before was a Powerfire,n it just didnt cut the mustard,too many thrust washers n snap rings in it to suit me had a lot of timing variations at hi RPM.
I also swapped the rear for a Moser 9 inch with 3.73s
Pics of this set up r in my project journals.
I will try the timing curve as u suggested n I thought about also throwing in about 8 deg or so of manifold vac advance.
What do u think?
Thanks again man!
Al
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:56 PM
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I've got an E-Curve in my 388. I use the 1-0 setting with a total of 36*. The 1-0 settings will give you a 15* curve. I idle mine at 21* + 10* vac on full manifold signal.


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Old 02-09-2012, 04:14 PM
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Thanks Gregg
I just went n got the dizzy at the speed shop n been reading up on it.
Seems like 1-O is the way to go,I also considered 3G but after reading your post n F birds 1-O seems better.
Im gonna install it tomorrow n will get back to both you guys n post
Both u n Fbird r pretty close on ur suggestions so Im gonna go with that
Thanks again guys!
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:59 PM
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There has been a lot of discussion an running av gas. I was running it until I read a lot of negative information on why I shouldn't. At 11-1 you are probably not that far off from using high octane pump gas maybe just ad a gallon or two per tank to boost the octane a little. Not a pro just a thought
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Old 02-10-2012, 03:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblockragtop
There has been a lot of discussion an running av gas. I was running it until I read a lot of negative information on why I shouldn't. At 11-1 you are probably not that far off from using high octane pump gas maybe just ad a gallon or two per tank to boost the octane a little. Not a pro just a thought
I mix it with 89 no ethanol,works pretty good so far.
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Old 02-10-2012, 07:53 AM
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The easiest way to install that E Curve is set the dials at a lockout timing such as 0-0. That way you can start and run the engine to warm it up (at an idle) and when it is warm enough to run at an idle you can set your total timing. Lets say you want 36* total. Let the engine idle at whatever rpm you want and set the total at 36*. tighten up the dist bracket and recheck the timing. Shut the engine off and set your dials at 1 - 0. This will give you 21* at idle and 36* all in at 3000 rpm. Plus, the vacuum adv will be set to 10* and be all in at 10".
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Old 02-11-2012, 05:34 AM
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I put it in yesterday,I used 1-G took me a while to get the instructions through my head,I did just what u said gregg n it turned out fine.
Thanks for all your help guys!
Havent road tested yet but Im sure it will be fine.
Works better than having to mess around with centrifugal weights,stop bushings etc.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:22 AM
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The beauty of the E Curve is that once you set the total you don't have to touch it again. To change the curve you simply turn two dials to match whatever curve you want. Also, not having to rev the engine to set the total is really a blessing. You set the total with the engine idling. Much safer, easier and quieter.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:11 AM
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Gregg,I thought it required resetting the total each time the advance curve was re-set.
Do u mean if I wanted to go to the 20* advance curve n not the 25* all I would have to do is re-set the dials?
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