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Old 05-29-2012, 12:26 PM
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E street heads sbc

This is an update on my 1977 triumph tr7 with the 400sbc engine. I've had the engine out 3 times since my last post, trying different combinations. The 441 heads I used turned out to be cracked, so I put on a pair of 1968 4bbl 327 heads 194/ 160"s. Ran a Speed -pro cam csr185 230 duration 453 lift. I used a 3500 stall convertor...650 spreadbore carb. The car weighs 2650 with me in it ,full of gas. It rad 12.7@107mph. Very disapointing.
Changed the cam to an old style 280 comp hyd. cam 480 lift and put on the Edelbrock E-street heads and shorty headers. Car ran 11.7@ 113mph "some traction prblems". This was on the highway with a G-Tech timmer. The 400 runs alot cooler with the E-heads. Now has 10.7compression,easily runs on 107octane premium gas pump fuel. I would highly recomend these heads.Just bolt them on and GO!

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Old 05-29-2012, 02:35 PM
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more info

I forgot to mention that the new E street heads I put on are "64cc" chambers.I went from a 74cc chev iron head. As well, I am using LONG slot stamped steal rocker arms. I did Not need longer push rods, it messured up perfect. The EDELBROCK Site says that "some" engines do need 100thou longer rods, each motor is different. I used the Stock GM head bolts with Hardened 30thou thick washers.No interferance problems. Caution- when they say RE-torque after warm up..DO it! I pulled the torque wrench another 1/4 turn to bring them back up to 65lbs. Holding excellent now. I am running my total timing @38 with No issues. These E street heads are very User Friendly and work extreamly well.I was told not to buy them, and that they were a waste of money, and didnt work that great,.. but I have found this to be totaly False. 100% good on a 400. I would run these heads again..GOOD job Edelbrock!!
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:50 PM
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38deg is a lot. probabily more than it really needs.
If you recurve the distributor to shorten limit the mech adv you can run a healthy
amount of initial at idle say 20-24deg base and 34-36 at Max advance.

shorten the advance curve a bit to around 10-12deg travel.

38deg will probabily be a bit too agessive on street Pump gas.
( Sunoco-PetroCan Ultra 94)

It should run the same or better and will add ping-knock tolerance.

With your generous compression ratio you don't want o push the total timing any further than it needs.

The octane requirement of the engine is loest when it is brand new
Once carbon builds up on the piston etc the ocane requirement increases.

It will idle better too.

Good to see the E street heads worked very well for you.
Whats the quality appearance of the as cast ports etc.

Many of these heads need a longer head bolt.
The had still goes on but there are less threads working in the block
to hold the bolt if its too short w aluminum heads.

Aluminum heads always need retorqing expecially the first new install
as the head bolt seats also need to take a set.
Same as new aluminum rims. Al ways take the wheel wrench with you for the first ride, stop and check all the wheel nuts.

@2650 car weight your MPH should be a lot higher
Take it to the track and compare your G-Tech to the drag time slips.
If 113 MPH is the real 1/4 mile mph its not makeing very much power

I use a Vericom and a radar gun / and or real track ET slips to verify. which is a lot more accurate than the G-tech.

Sometimes you have to work with that G tech to get good test data.

You did go a lot faster reguardess. Thats what matters.

Whats your overall opinion of the Edelbock heads?
good bad things.
You'll need to get some hot and sticky tires (M/T ET street) to get real performance test data

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-29-2012 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:58 PM
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:06 PM
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Good stuff good pics

Where are you getting "107 octane pump gas" ?

Much more power to be had with a performer rpm style manifold and
750 800carb.

The Comp XE 284H-10 cam makes a good bit more power in the 400 than the 280H magnum cam.

i think your car will end up much faster than 113 MPH when dialed in a bit more.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:14 PM
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Thanks F-Bird. I will adjust the timming.I feel you are right. And as for the Gtech and run I made,..it was pretty crappy. I spun way to much and had to peddle it. It was just to cold out that day. I will Take it to the Race track this weekend and give it an honest chance now that its nice and warm out.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:17 PM
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What headers did you use ( origional application) ?
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:21 PM
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mistake

Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Good stuff good pics

Where are you getting "107 octane pump gas" ?

Much more power to be had with a performer rpm style manifold and
750 800carb.

The Comp XE 284H-10 cam makes a good bit more power in the 400 than the 280H magnum cam.

i think your car will end up much faster than 113 MPH when dialed in a bit more.
My brain isnt working today.."91 octane" sorry, what was I thinking?? Running My M/T tires at 14lbs. Mabey lower it to 12lbs. The intake and carb just kinda came my way, so I used them. And yes, I feel these heads really helped. I'm 1 second faster so far,..should see alot better ET at the track.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhotroddertr7
Thanks F-Bird. I will adjust the timming.I feel you are right. And as for the Gtech and run I made,..it was pretty crappy. I spun way to much and had to peddle it. It was just to cold out that day. I will Take it to the Race track this weekend and give it an honest chance now that its nice and warm out.
You will need to eliminate some of the rubber fuel hose to pass track tech imspection.
The rule is no more than 6" total rubber fuel hose length.
They won;t like that.

you will need a drive shaft safety loop for those DOT drag tires.
Try 'em at about 14PSI

Needs a catch bottle for the rad over flow too.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
What headers did you use ( origional application) ?
Cheap Flow Tec headers. Not sure what they actually fit...they are the only ones I could get to fit. I would of liked to use a REAL header, but I would of had to do some serious chopping on the car. The fire-wall is such a weird shape, its hard to make anything fit, LOL.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:33 PM
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If you have 400 flat tops and the heads are 64cc you are really pushing your luck on 91 octane.

I get 10.80 to 11.50:1 (Odeck height +.040 gasket)

Your luck will run out when you get real traction and load that motor down.

With wheel spin you are not loading the motor.

I would run Ultra 94 at minimum and start tests at 34deg BTDC
once the distributor curve is redone. Its easy on a HEI.

I would consider blending some good Mark II 110 unleaded in with the 94 for initial testing I suggest 70-30 mix with 94 Ultra.

You can buy it at the track (Cayuga)
Toronto Motor Sports Park

You got a nice motor with agressive cr. I would go real easy on 91 fuel.
Your luck will run out. You don;t want to hurt that motor.

You want a real deal 98-100 octane R+M/2 for that one and hard running.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:45 PM
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If when you want to go to the more powerfull Performer rpm manifold

get and rebuild a 650-700-750 square bore holley DP and up grade it using the Proform or Holley HP center body.
Then use this air cleaner for max per and low hood clearance
If you want to use it with a stock holley cut the holley choke horn off the carb body.


14x3" filter the lids are pretty much all the same. Its all in the base.

Cut the PCV tube off and block and (minor) trim the back of the air cleaner base flange to clear the HEI cap.

You an get these LT-1 L-72 corvette air cleaner bases from may chevrolet resto parts sources. A full 1 inch lower than a typcial 14x3 perf air cleaner
eg: Moroso. Its the best and the lowest.

i just noticed the Saskatchewan plates.
Do they not have a 94 octane pump gas there?
( Petro-Can/ Husky/Pioneer)

91 is really pushing it. Unless the 64cc heads are actually larger CC.

www.proracingfuels.com
You first hand report on the E street heads is much appreciated.

Post your track results when you get to that

I am itching to do a V8 RX7

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-29-2012 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:27 PM
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You have been most helpful..Thank you. I like the "lowered " air cleaner bottom Idea, as I DO have height issues. I could have put on a taller scoop, but I sit so low in the car that I can hardly see over the short one thats on LOL. As far as gas & octane,..I will look around and see If I can find something higher.I fixed the fuel line "rubber 6 iches" changed it out to Metal line...thanks for the heads-up. I have a drive shaft hoop on. I found some of my old info on the 400. It a 28thou deck. And it is STD bore flat tops 4 valve relief. Gasket is 39thou compressed. I use Manifold vacume for my DIST instead of taking from the carb.Vacume drops off as engine picks up. Using stock 400 rods with ARP bolts ,Clevite bearings through out. Gearing is 308, this engine likes to push. PROBLEM-with these new E heads, the engine will pull past 6800rpm! I took my foot out of it..I didnt want to blow it up.I'm not sure at what rpm it would stop. With the old heads, it would only pull to 5000rpm. What is the SAFE Zone for these rods??
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:51 PM
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10.66:1 w -6cc 4 vR pistons and your specs

I'd still get the best gas available for that.

6800rpm is pushing it for sure with stock 400 rods 5.565

That 280cam will be all done by then anyway.

Ya the stock 76cc heads are pretty restrictive as cast.

Pretty much anything is a big improvment over stock.

Check the amount of vacuum advance thats gets added at high speed part throttle cruise Physically limit that to a max of 10-12deg. tops

Some vac adv allow way too much at high manifold vacuum.

You will find the car generally runs better once the mech advance is set up and limited to allow more at idle, without depending heavily on vac adv for the idle timing. 20 to 24deg base w the 280H cam
34-36deg max "WOT
10-12 max at highest vacuum.

high compression requires you get the mix of al that just right.
You do not want the vac adv all pegged in full at idle.
24 ish base maybe 4-5deg added by vac advance at idle.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:57 PM
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Did you take any pics of the E Street heads ( ports etc) before bolting them on.?

I was under the impression they can be made into a really good head with some hand work to clean up the ports. (same as the RPM heads can improve)
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