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Caleb, you'll get many different answers to this question, but generally speaking, 0.0015" to 0.002" on the rods and 0.00175" to 0.0025" on the mains.
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To the original poster, Don't think Tom is just yankin' yer chain. He's serious and so am I. Take the crank to your shop and have it checked out. More of then than not Eagle cranks need it. Don't use a stretch guage on the rod bolts either, if they're the I-beam rods. Larry |
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You can run up to .003" clearance on the mains and rods if thats what you end up with.
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I've had Scat crank shafts way out too.
The one in my current 383 sbc was cut .010 on the mains and rod throws to straighten out the problems. My machine guy says Eagle has fewer problems..... and some companies take the cranks and 'tune' them up before selling them at a marked up price
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At the Bonneville Salt Flats, first gear is known as 130 mph. |
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I have found Scats to be a better peice but we have gone to the Callies Comstar crank as those are top of the line and are dead nuts straight and journal size is right on from journal to journal. I Think Tom can verify that!! |
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I find the Scat cast cranks are better than Eagle's cast and forged series. Scat's forged (4340) cranks seem to be quite good lately.
I agree with Carl, the Compstars are very good quality. Eagle's forged are ok if you have them fixed in the beginning. I too have seen the cast Eagle 383 cranks break. I will not sell and would not recommend the Eagle SIR I-Beam rods for any SBC application. tom |
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I have seen 2 break in a 4x4 truck. tom |
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383?
ive got a 93 z28 camaro. It has 110xxx on it right now and in the next year or two im planning on putin the 383 stroker kit in it. I want to do most of it by myself. Can anyone tel me what all i need to do to get it ready for the 383. I know all the parts you need for it. I know u have to bore out your block .0030. What all needs to be done?
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Check 3 places. Small end of rod to underside of piston crown, rod to cam lobe and rod to block lip at the oil pan.
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