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The only difference that I know of, and it's a HUGE difference, is the quality control. When these things arrive in bulk they end up with more than a few that are junk or less than ideal for use in a hot engine. Uniform density in the forgings is the key, and good rod bolts. We know that Eagle and Scat, Scat in particular, have good track records.
All it takes is one weak rod and your day, and engine, is done. Larry |
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eagle scat cat legend prowler,whats the difference?
Well I've never heard of legend or prowler,but from what I have read about Eagle & Scat,they are finish machined in the US,whereas some of the others arent.But its probably a good idea to have everything properly measured & balanced by a well known competent engine building shop.
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Ok, there are now three threads going about these rods. LOL Hopefully, that will do the trick.
One thing no one has mentioned is buying engine parts online or where ever, then taking them to your machinist to have him check them over. "Most" machine shops sell parts too and need to make money on them too, to stay alive financially. When I started to build my last engine, I bought a set of nice valves on ebay for cheap. I went to the shop and was talking to one machinist about doing all my machine work and mentioned the valves. The head dude said, kinda under his breath, "why not find someone on eBay to do your machine work too!" Lesson learned. Granted, I paid maybe a few bucks more here and there for parts, but overall, I got what I needed from a trusted shop at a fair market price. Sometimes local shops buy in a volume that gets them right on when it comes to online sales plus the shipping. I guess what i'm trying to say is don't "cheap" the good shops out of business. Mark |
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Same here, I've only heard of Eagle and Scat. And I have a forged 4340 3.80" Eagle stroker crank and Eagle 6" feather-weight forged H-beams in my 388 LT1. Indeed the raw forgings are produced in China but they are said to be fully magnafluxed and otherwise checked here, as far as is all of the machining done here, as already mentioned. And also as previously stated, no matter what kind of parts you're buying, always check all clearances, specs yourself. My stuff all checked dead-on and is performing flawlessly, going on 8K miles at this point.
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