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Old 04-26-2010, 04:47 PM
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48ChryslerRodder 48ChryslerRodder is offline
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I have been looking for a power steering conversion and a member sent his setup with pictures to me. It is an install of a Cavalier power rack and pinion. The dimensions are close enough through the years that you could use this design. This was compiled by Kai Hendriksen from various sources. Follows;

Here are some Pics that I used to set up my power steering.
I lifted most from the forum. If I have offended anyone, I am truly sorry.

Below are the instructions from Fatman.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR UNIVERSAL RACK & PINION KIT
1. This kit is designed to fit late 30’s to early 50’s cars which have lower control arms whose inner shaft pivot line forms a “V” pointed toward the rear of the car (see diagram). Some of these cars use a bellcrank in the center to mount the tie rods, and some use a short LH and a long RH tie rod.
2. Before disassembling anything, put the car on jackstands on it’s frame, leveling the frame side to side and front to back. Then measure the height of the inner tie rod ends from the floor, and record that number. When the new rack & pinion is installed, it’s inner tie rod ends must maintain the same height as stock.
3. An 89-93 Cavalier rack & pinion is used in either manual or power versions along with it’s own inner and outer tie rod ends. Be sure to get the mount bushings and straps. We’ve supplied a Borgeson U-Joint to get you started with your steering hookup. Occasionally a Cavalier rack with a different spline shows up – don’t panic – just give us a call and we’ll exchange it for you! We also have u-joints to fit your steering column.
4. Replace the tie rod threaded connectors with the longer ones in the kit. Set the toe in at zero by turning the threaded adapters. The Cavalier outer tie rod end should fit your steering arms, and will usually require 1-3 flat washers to raise the nut up to the cotter key hole. If more than 3 washers are required, give us a call for a tapered tie rod hole sleeve.
5. Mount the rack with the brackets from the kit, and mock it up in place with a jack or wires tied to the frame rails. Be sure to maintain the height noted in #2 above, and be sure the rack is centered in it’s travel, as well as centered in the chassis. Also look out for oil pan interference and clearance for the tie rods as the suspension moves up and down and left to right.
6. Double check for any bumpsteer problems by checking for toe in change with suspension travel. Use a plumb bob at the outer end of the spindle, and mark the floor at full up and full down travel. If more than a 3/16” change is noted, try moving the outer tie rod ends down to see if it’s getting better or worse, and adjust accordingly
7. Now you can final trim the rack mounts to fit the frame contours. Some frames are wide enough as to require a small gusseted “shelf” added to the lower frame surface. We often find that motor mounts will be directly above these “shelves”, and can do double duty as both motor mounts and gussets. Add the kit gussets and weld everything securely in place.
8. Connect the rack and steering column with u-joints, being sure to keep them properly phased. Connect the hoses next, being sure not to confuse the pressure and return ports. Use genuine GM Power Steering Fluid. If the effort is too light, you can reduce the pump’s output pressure by shortening the pressure relief valve spring inside the pressure line fitting in the pump body. It’s about the size of your little finger-try cutting off ¼ of the length for starters.
I will post the rest next.
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