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Eastwood Extreme Chassis black

29K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  mjgord51 
#1 ·
Has anyone possibly had this problem that I have. I had an rad support sandblasted, applied 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer, and then after about 2 hrs., applied the chassis black from Eastwood. Looked great. This was about 1 week ago. I started to get all my parts in order to start assembly, and I took the air hose and blew the dust off of the support, and off came the paint. The primer on the support was good, just the paint came off, big flakes. Bad adhesion between the two for some reason. Moisture was not a problem.I use a refrigerant drier and desiccant canister. This is probably the first time I've run into the problem, looking for answers..:confused:
 
#2 ·
So, the paint came off the PPG Epoxy Primer, but the primer stayed on the Rad Support. That tells me that the Epoxy Primer wasn't flashed enough, 2 hours is a guideline. Flash times are dependent on temperature, air flow and volume (the amount of primer you put on). If it was cool, the solvents where still in the Primer, when you painted over top...the paint cured before the solvents where out of the epoxy...when they tried to release themselves, they took the paint with them. Lack of air movement will not allow the solvents to release, to much air movement will cause the primer to cure on top and not all the way through...causing the paint to come off when the solvents finally do release. Same with volume of paint. The more primer you put on, the longer your going to need to wait for it to flash and top coat.

Anyway you look at it, 90% of peeling paint is caused by trapped solvent, 9% is cause by poor mechanical adhesion (sanding), but the primer stayed on the rad support, so mechanical adhesion isn't the issue. The other 1%...it was your turn...sometimes it just happens but even then, it's probably something that happened in the painting process.

Ray
 
#4 ·
No need to bake it, it's PPG's DP line correct, as crappy as that stuff is to sand, you could sand it with say 400 wet, let it sit over night and re paint it (let it sit to make sure that more solvents escape from opening up the Epoxy when you sanded it). If your going to apply more Epoxy, just let it sit longer before you topcoat it...If I'm right you have a 72 hour window before it needs to be scuffed, just make sure that it's flashed properly and hit it with your chassis Black.

Ray
 
#5 ·
I just applied another coat of epoxy primer after I sanded it with 320 and a red scuff pad. This time I also added 2 new inner fenderwells also that I primed.I think I'll use the advise a leave them sit overnite before painting again. This is the first time that I'm using this Eastwood paint, probably different properties that the PPG that I've use for the last 25 years. Always something to learn. Thanks for the input.. Ed
 
#6 ·
Good idea Ed, you've got lots of window room for topcoating, get those solvents out and put the Eastwood Black over top. 25 years of experience, I know what you mean, I have over 30 and every once in a while I get the teeth marks in my backside.

I'm sure you'll be fine.

Good luck Ed.

Ray
 
#7 ·
i just look up this at eastwood

About Chassis Black Paint Satin Quart


Chassis Black Satin applies smoothly over bare metal, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, or Eastwood Chassis Black Primer. (Not for use over self-etching primers.) Quart can has 40-sq.-ft. coverage. (Also available in 14-oz. aerosol to cover up to 8 sq. ft.; see 10025Z Chassis Black.) Withstands temperatures up to 300 degreesF. 30-day Eastwood warranty.
 
#9 · (Edited)
well since I already applied the epoxy primer last night, I'll take a chance and scuff the items good,spray a thin sealer coat of NCP 271 primer to cover the epoxy, then go with the chassis black. Maybe this will work.Don't know.

Just read in Eastwoods catalog that the "ultimate finish is easily achieved when you apply Eastwood's Epoxy Primer under the Ceramic Chassis Black", but there is no statement of any kind about the Extreme Chassis Black and epoxy primers. They reference Epoxy Primer for their 2K Chassis black, but nothing for their Original or Extreme black's. My error in not reading closer.
 
#10 ·
Mine too, if i'm not familiar with a product I usually check it out before I offer advice, but, Anything should stick to Epoxy if it's flashed properly right...wrong...my bad as well for not following through. Why not just put a regular catalyzed black on, that way you know it's going to stick.

Ray
 
#11 ·
As they say, if all else fails, read the instructions. But as luck has it, a Eastwood rep just call me back and said that epoxy primer is acceptable base for their chassis black paints. Just have to leave enough dry time for the solvents to flask out of the primer, 2 or 3 days if possible , then scuff and primer. Well, I left about 10 hrs. from the time I applied the primer to the paint time. See what happens in a few days. Will update .
I wanted to use something that was more resistant to under the hood chemicals, fluids. Ed
 
#14 ·
Sprayed the items yesterday. came out nice ,a little more shine than the 85 percent that I was expecting from what I wanted. In a couple of days I'll give it the air blow test, see what happens. Thanks for all the input that everyone had given me on this. There's something new learned everyday in painting.
 
#15 ·
I have used the Eastwood Chassis Black Satin on the whole underneath my car. I also use to spray all the components on my chassis and other parts like brackets.
About etching primer............my understanding is that is to be used over bare metal only. That way it can "etch" the metal for a topcoat.
I have found that if you "etch" any bare metal with a good sanding and apply a coat of good primer you are good to go.
 
#17 ·
Just came from the garage, doing a little cleaning. I moved some parts around, and scraped a little against the rad support an noticed the paint came off. I didn't think that this should of happened with the light movement that I made. Just for the temptation of wondering, I grabbed the air hose and hit the support with air. Off comes the paint again. The primer still in-tack. This second time I painted this part I let the epoxy primer dry for a good 10 plus hours. Puzzled. In all the years that I've been using this primer, this is the only time that I've ever had this happen. Back to Eastwood for their input.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Blown paint

Just came from the garage a little earlier , trying to clean-up a little. While I was trying to organize some items, I rubbed up against the rad support that I had re-painted again that the paint had come off the first time. I didn't think that I had rubbed up against it with what I was moving hard enough to scratch any of the paint off, so the temptation off the air test came back. And again, the paint just blew off as did the first time. I also looked at the inner fender-wells that I had sprayed also, and the same thing.( These were new inner fenders) Cannot figure this one out. The epoxy primer was still on the pieces. I had left a good 10 plus hours before I painted these parts. I've been using the same epoxy primer for many years and had never had this problem. I guess time to call Eastwood again.
 
#19 ·
I've used this same paint "chassis black "on the frame of an old 52 Ford where a/freeze ,oil and gas had leaked on it and even sat in a groove that held the liquids and it stayed on after soaking the liquids up with a rag. I more or less cleaned the area and painted it w/out the epoxy primer. Just thought I'd pass that on !
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the reply. I take it from all who has used this material before that a primer really should not be used with this material as a base. I have always used this epoxy primer under everything that I have sprayed and have never had any trouble in 25+ years. I sure that Eastwoods material is a top notch material and will probably try this at some later date on another project. But for now I think that I'll just peal the remaining material off and instead of having everything sandblasted again, just use chassis saver that I know will hold over the primer that is already on these parts. Live and learn. I'm going to contact Eastwood's rep just to see what he has to say on this anyway. Again, thank to everyone who has replied to my problem that I have had with this and good luck with all of your projects.
 
#21 ·
If this car has any value??? I would blow the stuff off and leave in the PPG epoxy, 99% of all restoration shops leave the frame and on some cars the engine compartment in epoxy, because it is much more chemical resistant, more chip proof and just plain stronger.
Why fight it and go backwards, along with wasting your money? Just my 2 cents worth.
 
#24 ·
I also have read that Eastwood's products in the paint dept. are at the level of your feet. for all of you that don't get what i just said your feet are on the *ground*, that means there paint is at the BOTTOM of the barrel and they are only used for NON SHOW CAR's like the common every day daily driver. Ask the first class restoration shops about Eastwood's stuff and they might just laugh at you, just my .02 cents. The real problem was he didn't read the label first it clearly shows not to use over Epoxy Primers. I know we Men don't like to ask for directions from the gas station attendant but if you want to get any where , well we all know how this story ended up "" on the floor "". Again just my .02 cents!
 
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