[matt167]

searching for headders for my '95 K1500 305 ( needs an exhaust gasket anyway ). I came across cheap turbo headders with a T3 flange.. I don't want to turbocharge the 305, but the 350 for my rat rod would be pretty cool turbocharged. I do have turbo experience.. I just can't afford a 'real' Garret Turbo, let alone 2 of them..

the headders seem well built, and there stainless. If they weren't up to par when I got them, I could still have them welded or reworked... the Turbo's, are just the basic Ebay T3/T4 hybrid, says 2 will work in a V8 twin setup, and there good to like 3.0L V6's on a single, so 2 should be good for a 5.7L V8. no compressor maps are available, so it's about as good a guess as that. but there like $160 each.. most of what I read about them, is to buy the rebuild kits, and rebuild and go thru them before using them, and then there pretty good when used with a genuine Garrett rebuild kit..

I would only want to run 8 PSI, or even a little less, but 8 PSI wastegates are pretty common ( don't want to intercool ).. is this a good idea? the engine which will probably get honed and re ringed/ new bearings, makes 8.5:1 compression with the current heads ( havn't looked at casting but will stay if there still in good shape ) and is pretty much a stock 1972 Chevy truck 350 4 bolt.. I wouldn't want too much HP, but if it would make 400 hp, that would be cool, being the turbo setup would cost about $800, and I could always save money for real Garrett turbo's built and sized for the setup

I could just put a Caddillac air cleaner ontop of the 1850 Holley and call it good if I have to

[upstand2]

Buy this months Carcraft.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by matt167

searching for headders for my '95 K1500 305 ( needs an exhaust gasket anyway ). I came across cheap turbo headders with a T3 flange.. I don't want to turbocharge the 305, but the 350 for my rat rod would be pretty cool turbocharged. I do have turbo experience.. I just can't afford a 'real' Garret Turbo, let alone 2 of them..

the headders seem well built, and there stainless. If they weren't up to par when I got them, I could still have them welded or reworked... the Turbo's, are just the basic Ebay T3/T4 hybrid, says 2 will work in a V8 twin setup, and there good to like 3.0L V6's on a single, so 2 should be good for a 5.7L V8. no compressor maps are available, so it's about as good a guess as that. but there like $160 each.. most of what I read about them, is to buy the rebuild kits, and rebuild and go thru them before using them, and then there pretty good when used with a genuine Garrett rebuild kit..

I would only want to run 8 PSI, or even a little less, but 8 PSI wastegates are pretty common ( don't want to intercool ).. is this a good idea? the engine which will probably get honed and re ringed/ new bearings, makes 8.5:1 compression with the current heads ( havn't looked at casting but will stay if there still in good shape ) and is pretty much a stock 1972 Chevy truck 350 4 bolt.. I wouldn't want too much HP, but if it would make 400 hp, that would be cool, being the turbo setup would cost about $800, and I could always save money for real Garrett turbo's built and sized for the setup

If your running the stock cast pistons make sure there is NO DETONATION what so ever. Maybe invest in one of msd boost referenced timing boxes. It takes timing out as it sees boost. Don't spin it too high and keep it a tad on the rich side and i think it will live.

I am actually building a twin turbo setup for my s10 using a 2 bolt 350 using two ebay turbos. They are the $129 ones....lol. I am just gonna take stock exhaust and weld on a flange.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=160499865258
I am using stock replacement .030 over speed pro cast pistons. Stock rods and crank and am shooting for the sky......or until a rod comes through the side of the block or a piston explodes. im thinking shoot for 12-15psi and i am gonna slowly work my way up to maybe 20 but we will see how the pistons and plugs look. after a couple lower psi runs. Heres a little side reading on what some very careful tuning a a whole lot of luck can do....http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=61219.0
carcraft did an article on him.....http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehi...ird/index.html

[matt167]

it would be just as easy to limit the advance on a HEI. MSD 6 BTM would work great, but there $400.. 1 of the Summit Digital box's can be setup to retard timing at certin RPM's, which would also work

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by matt167

it would be just as easy to limit the advance on a HEI. MSD 6 BTM would work great, but there $400.. 1 of the Summit Digital box's can be setup to retard timing at certin RPM's, which would also work

oh nice. much cheaper option.

[upstand2]

Most vacuum advances allow about 15 degrees advancment. So you can lock yout timing at 20 degrees and run the full 15 degrees vacuum advance. That way you have 35 while cruising and 20 under boost. It's what I did before I got the boost retard box. To tell you the truth , I really didn't notice a difference.

[matt167]

that's what I was thinking of..

the other concern I have is, these turbo's would be out in the open

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by upstand2

Most vacuum advances allow about 15 degrees advancment. So you can lock yout timing at 20 degrees and run the full 15 degrees vacuum advance. That way you have 35 while cruising and 20 under boost. It's what I did before I got the boost retard box. To tell you the truth , I really didn't notice a difference.

bookmarking this thread. That is gonna work perfect on my setup.