Econo punch - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Garage - Tools
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2006, 12:03 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Mikey's make believe punch

I needed some 3/8" x .035" slugs to fill some holes in a set of splash pans.
I know I could have backed up the holes with aluminum or copper and pounded some mig welder wire in it but I have to do things the slow stupid way.
So I made a punch.

I take a piece of steel 1/2 thick and put it in the vise on the mill. drill a hole 3/8" diameter.

I get a piece of 3/8"drill rod and sharpen it with a slightly angled concave end. I just hold it at a right angle to my bench grinding wheel, slightly above center. Put the drill rod in an end mill holder and install it in the spindle.

Lay a piece of sheet metal on the metal in the vise and punch away. A quick jab with the spindle works well.

I have used a setup like this to punch up to 7/16 dia in .035 steel. It works well on other materials like rubber and sheet teflon and plastics. I have been doing this for a few years and have not noticed any adverse effects to my mill downfeed mechanism or spindle bearings. I don't think I would use it to punch holes all day every day though. I'd buy a real punch. I never tried it in a drill press, but I'd imagine it would work. I'd add some weight to the quill to make it more hammer-like.

BTW- if anyone knows that this will mess up a mill, please post it and I will erase this thread. I talked to a couple of guys who didn't seem to think it would, but they are no final authority on anything.

I mainly use it to get the slugs for filling drilled holes in firewalls and other sheetmetal. I usually make a slug slightly oversize and ream the hole to fit the slug real tight. That way I only have to fuse the metal with my tig. Makes the bodywork a little less afterwards
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	punch installed.JPG
Views:	215
Size:	145.5 KB
ID:	13024   Click image for larger version

Name:	sharpened drill rod.JPG
Views:	262
Size:	150.9 KB
ID:	13025   Click image for larger version

Name:	hole drilled.JPG
Views:	238
Size:	143.9 KB
ID:	13026   Click image for larger version

Name:	punching.JPG
Views:	247
Size:	137.6 KB
ID:	13028   Click image for larger version

Name:	3-8 slugs.JPG
Views:	210
Size:	138.5 KB
ID:	13030  


    Advertisement
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example

Last edited by powerrodsmike; 06-30-2006 at 01:04 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2006, 12:09 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Heres what I do with them.

I find it is easier to fit the hole tightly to the slug with a tapered ream and fuse the slug in with the TIG. Very little filler rod is needed. A couple of taps with a hammer and dolly then some grinding and very little bondo is needed to finish.
The weld on that 3/8" plug in the pic was done with a .040 tungsten with about 30 amps.

Sometimes for the bigger holes like in firewalls and radiator supports I go to the sheetmetal shop and fish around in their slug bin. .
Later, mikey
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	welded slug.JPG
Views:	203
Size:	137.1 KB
ID:	13031   Click image for larger version

Name:	slug in pan.JPG
Views:	217
Size:	147.3 KB
ID:	13032  
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example

Last edited by powerrodsmike; 06-30-2006 at 01:10 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2006, 07:10 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,912
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Hard way? Not at all, in fact it's a good idea as it will make this job a lot easier to do with out warping the panel from all those plug welds
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2006, 03:07 AM
Kevin45's Avatar
Just one of the guys
 

Last journal entry: Garage Toys
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Urbana, Ohio
Age: 58
Posts: 3,058
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
BTW- if anyone knows that this will mess up a mill, please post it and I will erase this thread. I talked to a couple of guys who didn't seem to think it would, but they are no final authority on anything.
One thing you may want to do someday is check the tram on the head. After periods of drilling and milling, the vibration can move the head. I do not know what type of mill you have but on the better mills the tram will change. On the cheaper mills I know it definately will. How do I know? I have run mills almost all my life. If you do not know how to check the tram, you will need a dial indicator, and a longer extension for the indicator. Center your mill table with the quill (remove the vise first) and set the indicator so it will reach the back of the table then swing it around 180 degrees to see if it reaches the front of the table. Adjust accordingly. Now that it does, touch the top of the table and set the indicator at "0". Swing the indicator in a 360 degree circle. All four points (north, south, east, west) must read zero. Adjust you head on the mill until it does. Most mills have 4 bolts in the front to rotate the head and usually three on the side to tip the head. Make sure they are tight after adjusting. After that, remount your vise and indicate it back in and you are on your way.

Kevin
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2006, 08:14 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Thanks kevin-I was hoping you would see this

My mill is an '85 Sharp TMV. It is an import, but seems fairly stout. It doesn't have a knee like the newer tmv's do, but the head does turn 45* either way. I actually do check the tram before I do anything that requires some degree of precision. Also I check it whenever I return the head to a vertical position after using it on an angle. The tapered pin that is supposed to register the head is all wallowed out and doesn't work anymore. I have an old Alina .0-.015" test indicator that I use with a 6" extension.

I was concerned that I was going to mess up the spindle bearings or gears in the downfeed mechanism from the shock of punching. I wouldn't want to tell folks to do something that would tear up their machinery, just because I didn't know better.
thanks, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Garage - Tools posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Power Punch Gear/Trans oil additive 7dcrzr Transmission - Rearend 7 03-21-2006 07:40 PM
Will this hole punch work on stainless? Dave Carney Garage - Tools 15 02-04-2005 12:35 AM
How Far Over Can You Punch Out A Sbc TCAMARO Engine 18 12-21-2004 06:25 PM
Roper Whitney hand punch??? sevt_chevelle Body - Exterior 3 08-28-2004 12:52 PM
390 2v econo to 390 gt 65galaxie500 Engine 9 04-03-2003 03:32 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.