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I jut put on a used 1405 Edelbrock carb. I am having a problem getting it dialed in. I am getting serius fumes, and I have tried all of the tips listed in the manual. Along with the fumes, the drivers side plugs are soot black, while the passenger side are almost showing a lean condition. It drives good, and sarts right up and idles fine. It just concerns me that the plugs look the way thy do. Any suggestions?
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Sounds like an imbalance of the carb sides. Assuming you don't have a vacuum leak on the side showing lean than make sure the jet's and rods are the same. Measure them with a micrometer of you have access to one. Sometimes the qaulity control will miss bad ones and ship them out anyway. Fumes usually show of a rich condition. float's, needled's, fuel pressure, and leakes around the float bowl are all reason's to suspect. Maybe not much help here but hope somthing comes of use.
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I had a problem with my edlebrock carb, My last resort was calling Edlebrock tech support. They were great, explained what was wrong and how to correct it. Try them
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first make sure u have no vacuum leaks and all bolts are tight. If thats all good get a vacuum guage and adjust your mixture screws to the highest reading. Also make sure your accelerator pump linkage connected to the pump arm hole lowest to your intake. It has 3 holes on that pump arm on the drivers side. It is often over looked.
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hmmm
THink I have mine in the middle hole. I noticed tonight in messing around with it that when I shut it off I heard eaither release or vacuum. I pinpointed it to the oil dipstick. When car is running you can pull it out and hear air going in and feel suction. Is this normal? Is this related to my problem? ANother thing I noticed is that you can start tweakn the idle and it seems like it is increasing a little then a little more then it goes up a little to high. Not linear. Then you have to back it off a little to try and find a good spot. Maybe that sounds confusing :\
Boy does it make me stinky when I am done meesn with this darn thing Tired of it. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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The prolonged idling that you have to do to adjust the carburetor also contributes to the eye burning exhaust and sooty plugs. Bring the motor up to 160 degrees by driving it if you can get it to run...that will warm it up faster than by idling and keep the plugs burned off. Follow the advice to ask the EDLEBROCK techs about how to fine tune it, expecially using a tach or vacuum gauge and adjust to the highest vacuum, smoothest idle at best rpm. As you adjust the idle mixture screws (in to lean, out to richen) you need to adjust you primary fast idle screw to compensate, staying within 100 rpms of where your idle is normally set. If your particular carburetor is manual choke your primary and secondary jetting and the rods may be richer than typical electric choke. When you go to the EDLEBROCK website you can verify that. Your timing may need to be advanced a little and that can also help. Be sure that your floats are set correctly, and related to that IF YOU HAVE A FUEL PUMP SETUP THAT PRODUCES MORE THAN THE RECOMMENDED FUEL PRESSURE FOR AN EDLEBROCK, YOU WILL NEED A QUALITY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR TO MAINTAIN THE PRESSURE OR YOUR NEEDLE AND SEATS WILL BE OVERCOME.
The EDLEBROCK is by far the easiest carburetor to setup right out of the box...it's usually a matter of just installing and adjusting the idle mixture screws UNLESS you have a vacuum leak, fuel pressure is to great or you've over carbureted your motor. |
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fuel pump
My fuel pump is a standard one from the parts store. Put in a breather, which I did not have before, and a new distributor since my other had a faulty diaphragm it was cheaper just to get a rebuilty one. Car still stinks like hell. Had a buddy tune it up a little better but he didn't understand where the smell is from either. Could I have valve adjustments off letting gas through? Could my pop up pistons be creating to much compression causing sumtn strange to happen? Is it just the kind of cam that is making it this way and that is normal? Just sucks. Maybe it is just normal all around but I think it is a little much.
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I put a pressure regulator on my Edelbrock 1406. A pressure test showed the stock fuel pump was too high.
I put a pvc valve on each valve cover to suck the fumes out of the crankcase. I had a smell from hell. Now even my wife will ride in it. |
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I cant remember the pressure before. but I dialed the regulator down to 4.5 and it stopped the dumping fuel problem.
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EDLEBROCK suggests 5.5# fuel pressure for an EDLEBROCK carburetor. The 4.5# might be a tad low, try adjusting it up to their recommended pressure and see if any of the annoying symptoms reappear.
The HOLLEY #803 fuel pressure regulator from SUMMIT RACING is about $23.00 in the plain finish, $35.00 for the polished and a little more in chrome. They use 3/8" inlets/outlet fittings. They also have fuel pressure gauges in liquid dampened and non dampened at a good price. I've used three of them in three different tri five applications with EDLEBROCK carburetors and all have been successful in keeping the fuel in the bowls, except the most recent polished one...it wouldn't hold a steady fuel pressure so SUMMIT RACING replaced it for me. Last edited by hotwheels55; 08-19-2003 at 02:54 PM. |
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Ok everyone I installed a fuel pressure gauge and I am getting a reading of 8. This is of course 2.5 higher then recomended. Could this be my problem with the stinky exhaust? I don't understand the full functionality of how that all works with the carb and all so if someone wants to help me understand.
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Adjust the regulator down to the recommended 5.5#.
The higher fuel pressure will force fuel past the needle and seat on the EDLEBROCK. The fuel drains down into the motor and doesn't get burned in the combustion chamber. Instead, it goes into your exhaust system as unburned fuel, some of it getting burned there, but not as efficiently. That is in laymans terms what is burning your eyes, causing the black sooty exhaust, fouling plugs, diluting oil and leaving a mess on your concrete. |
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