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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 11:03 PM
sqzbox's Avatar
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Good deal! glad to hear you got it going! Have fun!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2010, 01:11 PM
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Finally a little follow-up. After waiting over two weeks for edelbrock to reply to my email, they said that they no nonger reply to emails Since I am rarely off work in time to call their tech line (today being an exception) I tried adding a few grams to the air valve counterweights. 95% of the hesitation is now gone, seems I need just a tad more weight and all is good.
I have to wonder now if the 1405 counterweights are heavier than the 1406's?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2010, 06:58 PM
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Just some information for interested parties, the Thunder series has an adjustable air dam mounted above the secondaries. Like the Rochester Q jets.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2013, 10:16 AM
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Off idle hesitation with Edelbog.....

Im glad you found youre prob with the Edel 1406. I have one on a warmed over small block and it will not "tip in" for crap. I tried the longer stroke hole on the accel pump with no real result. After hearing your solution, i will be pulling the dang thing apart this weekend. I too noticed it takes a good move on the throttle to get gas out of the squirters.....where did you get the parts from, Summit?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2013, 10:17 AM
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Oh crap, I just noticed how old this thread is......my apologies.....
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMo View Post
Im glad you found youre prob with the Edel 1406. I have one on a warmed over small block and it will not "tip in" for crap. I tried the longer stroke hole on the accel pump with no real result. After hearing your solution, i will be pulling the dang thing apart this weekend. I too noticed it takes a good move on the throttle to get gas out of the squirters.....where did you get the parts from, Summit?
I used lead wheel weights (the ones with the double stick tape on them), trimmed them up then epoxied in place. There is not a lot of room for added weight so I spent some time filing them down to clear everything. It was a bit of a pain but worth it in the end.
I think some of the problem was too low of a stall speed and the fact that eddy carbs rely on air velocity rather than a squirter on the secondary side.
I got an offer I couldn't refuse and sold the truck in march of 2011, else I would have a better answer concerning the converter. I had a similar setup with less motor and a holley 1850 with a hesitation problem that cleared right up after switching the torque converter....
FWIW, the squirters should discharge at the first hint of throttle, might want to start there (new acc pump?) before messing with the counterweight.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2013, 08:15 AM
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I have been fighting this 1406 EdelBOG for awhile now. It had the typical off idle bog and after installing a new pump, and using the different adjustment holes with no real improvement, just a little bit better. Well, guess what the trick ended up being.....BENDING the friggin rod a little at a time until it finally would give an instant fuel shot........then I fiddled around with the step up springs, starting with the heavy one, working to the light ones until "waaalaaa", the damn thing goes pretty good from off idle. NOW to figure out the secondary huge "hole" or bog when they kick in.....
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox View Post
you overlooked the holley! That's the very reason I switched.

Have you tried ported vacuum to the dist. instead of full time manifold vacuum? Some engines like it that way and some don't. Just like women!
Easy to check buy just capping off the manifold port and move the hose to the port on the front of the carb. Worth a try!
There are some good suggestions.

I have a problem with this. Which ever carb, holley or edelbrock, I have always been able to dial it in. ALWAYS. As long as the carb was for the application it worked well. If you are bogging it isn't the carb design necessarily. Qjets, afbs, avs, thermoquads, etc are really good carbs in their app.

As for timing, after you swap the cam in a driven vehicle, you will need more base timing and a curve to drive around on. 99% of the packages I built , required manifold vacuum to add advance at idle for a complete burn.

The vehicles that I built to race needed the timing locked out for best results with 3600+ stall and 4.10+ gears.

The only time I used ported was if on factory stock econo vehicle and the manual called for ported in the diagram.

Last edited by spinn; 03-17-2013 at 10:43 AM.
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