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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2011, 08:21 PM
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After about a week of driving it's almost adjusted itself haha. I've adjusted the idle mixture screws and that's helped a lot.
Now im dealing with yet another no-start issue. I'm not getting any spark to the plugs. I tried hooked a jumper wire from the battery directly to the + side of the HEI but still couldnt get any spark to the plugs... might need a new cap/plugs? Not sure...will have to do some more testing once it warms up haha

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:10 PM
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I'm going to suggest the condenser again. maybe that was it all along?
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:09 PM
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I havent tried a new condenser yet... I did pick up a new ignition control module, distributor cap and wires and still had a problem getting spark but I will keep tinkering with it and hopefully get this figure out soon. Such a pain!
The plugs have still be fouled when trying to start, either because they were already saturated with fuel due to excessive pressure or because of no spark and fuel just entering the chamber... I will hopefully have time to pick up a fuel pressure regulator soon and play around with that.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
Many "stock" pumps will produce 6-9 psi the Edelbrock and Carter AFB's run best between 4 1/2 and 5 psi put a fuel pressure regulator on it and all should be good.Also with the air cleaner off and the engine cold try to start it and make sure the electric choke opens fully when warmed up,you may also want to check it with a voltmeter to make sure you are getting 12+ volts to the choke.

You were right about that, I finally was able to get time to hook up a regulator... it was running about 6.5psi so i was able to back it down to about 4.5-5psi. Havent had a problem with it in a few weeks, but ill keep updating this thread if/when it happens again, so that i can hopefully get it figured out.
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:51 PM
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Well I hooked up the fuel pressure regulator and was able to set it at around 5psi at idle, however trying to drive it, it stalls out. I tried driving it down the street and it barely made it 100 yards, then at a stop sign it stalled and died, and kept dying once I tried to put it in gear. I was able to increase the pressure and it drove it home but it ran like crap. The picture below is how I have it hooked up, is this the right way? is it a problem that the fuel line is long?
I tried increasing/decreasing the pressure all the way (regulator is 4.5psi-9psi) and it still runs like crap in both directions.
Again, any help is appreciated...

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Old 05-10-2011, 02:47 PM
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I'd get that rubber hose away from that exhaust first.
Secondly, I had very similar problems and ended up killing my engine.

Problem is, you are washing out the rings, whether they are new or old. What I would do is eliminate variables, as I started to, but was just too much of a novice to put all the pieces of the puzzle together before it was too late.

First thing I would do is change your oil, asap. You prolly have a lot of gas in it and that is going to destroy this, as it did mine. Put new "good" oil in it with some oil treatment, change your filter too. I bet you will have really runny smelly oil. Then change it after a couple hundred, once you get it going. or even sooner.

Then I would hook up a vacuum gauge, so when you get it running you can see what it is pulling. as for the carb, I tore into mine floats looked fine, take a 7/16 drill bit (i think that is the spec, you can look on eddy's web site) check the float height with that. also what I would do is take all your plugs out, change oil, let it sit overnight. disconnect fuel line or put a valve on it and shut it off. Get a compression gauge and run a check on all your cylinders.

basically eliminate variables, but first change that oil. If you are having spark problems, iron that out first. Don't crank it with the gas hooked up because you are just washing them rings out. Once you get spark figured out, get new plugs. that will really make a difference. It definitely is getting too much gas especially if spark is bad and the air/fuel ratio is off. make sure when you try and start it the choke is closed, you can keep your foot on the pedal. make sure your secondary butterflies aren't open, that will cause to much air (those are back two holes, bottom plates).

when it runs does it idle ok? Get it to idle at 1k if you can, depending on your cam. Once it is there, then adjust the idle screws, screw them all the way in till it bogs then back out a full turn or whatever your liking. Do both of them. If they don't bog down that means the idling system isn't working, which could be the timing and or carb are off.

feel free to correct me anyone, I am new to this too and am learning from experience. I flooded mine out initially because one of my vacuum ports on the carb got unplugged, I didn't realize it and it would just suck down gas, by the time I swapped carbs, I realized the problem, but never thought all that gas was in the oil, then it just developed problems and blew up. So check for vacuum leaks, that is why I mentioned get it running and hook up a vacuum gauge.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:03 PM
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I took out the regulator and just kept the line going to the fuel filter then pressure gauge... its runs decent now, idles a little higher than normal in park but i can get it to idle just under 1000rpm if i mess around with the carb.

I did smell the oil, it does have a hint of fuel smell to it, but its consistency is still pretty thick. I did pick up stuff for an oil change today so i'll get to that tomorrow.

I rebuilt the carb a short while ago so i think the floats are still good, regardless i'll probably check again soon just to be sure.

Also, I had thought about the whole fuel shut off valve, but didnt think it'd make a difference if it truely is a fuel pressure problem i assumed that the fuel between the valve and carb would be pressured into the carb anyways, but i could be wrong, im hardly even an amateur at this stuff.

I need to get a vacuum gauge and i'll check compression... thanks for the info because i dont have anyone else to really rely on for help besides searching the internet for articles...
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:51 PM
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hey I am right there with you. def make sure that fuel line is rerouted, even if it is above your headers that is bad cause if it springs a leak, look out.

Glad your oil consistency is good, perhaps it is a lack of fuel problem, have you ruled that out? Did you put your fuel pressure gauge after the filter? If not it could have proper pressure until the filter but the filter is clogged.

but if you still feel like it is getting flooded or having a lack of spark, narrow those down. How do your plugs look? also get some new ones and check the gap .045 and put them in and see if that helps.

you can check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb and the intake, while the engine is not completely warmed up. If it gets too hot and your spraying, why look out. That will tell you if you have a vacuum problem, if you don't have a gauge yet.

a compression gauge is nice to have, so get one of them and a vac gauge, they are cheap to buy and a valuable tool.

As for the carb, start from square one, make sure your floats are good, turn the idle screws in all the way and back them out two full turns then fire it up with the new plugs, new oil and then adjust your fast idle, get it to idle and work with your two middle idle screws. the fast idle is on the throttle linkage, there are two of them, but one is for the choke.

also is your timing good, did you set that yourself?

It is hard to diagnose when you are just getting into this, I had the same exact problem. I couldn't ever tell if it was getting too much or not enough fuel. also too much air on cold start will effect it too. also check out your exhaust while you have it running, if it reaks bad or has a blacker tint, it is a bit rich.

keep us posted
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:07 AM
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thanks 99 to life!


Fuel line is back to a decent position.. at least not near the block/heads.

Oil consistency is good now. When I changed it I smelled gas, so that was scary. I stuck my finger down into the PCV valve opening on the valve cover and into the oil breather slot and my finger had fuel on it. Both areas also have this discolored grease, almost a yellowish color, what is that about? I cleaned it out with a clean rag and it appeared again days later...

I drove the car around for a few days after the oil change, forgetting to put in new plugs. Ran like crap..almost stalled out and I couldnít go near WOT otherwise it'd die. Took the plugs out, they were oil fouled for sure...got replacements gapped to about .45 and it runs "normal". Now is my second problem... When I took out the plug on the number 8 cylinder, I noticed a trail of oil leading out of the hole and down the head/block. I've had to replace plugs in this every month or two because of the oil fouling the plug. I always thought it was fuel causing the car to flood out but now Im leaning towards the oil problem. From what I remember of the shop book, it would either be worn piston rings or valve seats, is that correct? Too much oil getting into the cylinder? I also noticed a small amount of oil coming out of the exhaust manifold, however I do not have any smoke out of the exhaust except on initial start up, which is grey/white.

I checked for vacuum leaks, didn't find any. Havent gotten a vacuum or compression gauge yet, that is my next to do but it seems after the oil change and new plugs it runs good. However if the problem now is the worn rings, that could lead to problems and I may be changing plugs every couple weeks until I can either rebuild the engine or find a replacement.

I drive this car every day that I can, I think itís a shame to leave it in a garage...hopefully I can get it running really good before I deploy for the year haha

on a good note, the carb is running good, i was suprised by how easy it was to rebuild myself.. i was worried about the whole float levels (which i need to double check again) but overall it was easy, especially after searching this site for similar threads.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:40 AM
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oil fouling the plugs might be rings or a bad valve guide or seal, which would be your heads. I would definitely do a compression test and see what you come up with, that will let you know if it is the rings or a bad valve seal. I ran the test on an engine I picked up and all the cylinders were dead on 125 except cylinder 1 which was 30, so I tore into it, not only did I have broken rings, but also a broken piston land.

It can be a real nightmare trying to diagnose problems when you are just learning about these, so it is best to use simple tools as we have mentioned. Eliminate variables is my tactic. Trace back to the beginning and tackle the easiest things first.

glad you got your carb figured out. it's nice to know how things operate so it's not so intimidating to fix them yourself
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:43 AM
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You have a blown head gasket. That gray color a indicates water in the crank case.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:52 AM
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1406 float adjustment

My 1406 would flood so I pulled the top and checked the float adjustment
as in the manual, it wasn't even close!
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