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Old 01-10-2013, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MalibuMike View Post
Okay cdminter59 since yu say those oval port heads are sum of the best if I was to go .60 bore what size cam would yu suggest I use to get the best output? I'm just trying to find a few different part combinations to go with for the best price.
Only bore the engine as little as possible. If you can get by w/a 0.030" overbore, do that instead of going out to 0.060". The power it'll make will be basically the same, but at 0.060" over, you may have no room to rebore it later if needed and if you were to sell it, it'll be worth more at 0.030" over than 0.060" over.

You need to start by seeing what pistons are in it now, and go from there. If they're sufficient for compression (and the engine is sound- good bearing and piston to wall clearances, etc.), then basically all you need is a cam and lifters, dual plane high rise intake like the RPM, 750 cfm carb, long tube headers/dual exhaust system and a recurved HEI distributor to have plenty of power for any street driven car.

I wouldn't worry too much about HP numbers- it's hard to NOT make 400 HP-plus! Build it using the correct cam for the compression ratio and as long as you choose and assemble the parts carefully, you could have ~500 HP in a streetable package. But the street manners wouldn't be as good as a torquier combo, IMHO. I depends on how you're going to use it as much as anything. A daily driver usually needs to be milder than a weekend toy.

Even using a cam as mild as the XE268H and those heads along w/using an 18cc domed piston (about 9.6:1 CR) will get you an easy 450-plus HP/550 ft/lb torque. BTW, if you have flat top pistons, the CR will be about 8.1:1 using the 118cc heads and a quench of 0.041".

I take it the rear end has been changed? Because it came w/a low performance 7.5" diff from the factory, and if that same rear end was in it now, it wouldn't last long behind a BBC if you ever got traction.
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