I have a 1984 Chevy C-10 (305) with an Edelbrock (500) carb, my problem is that engine start very quick in the morning or if I just turn it off for about 3 or 4 minutes. If it seats for, let say, half hour to 1 hour I need to crank it a lot to make it run.
About a month ago I bought a 1965 Chrysler 300 with a 383, the seller sent me the original carburetor but he had installed a brand new Edelbrock (600), which work flawless in the car but also has exactly the same problem that my truck has, start right up in the morning or after a quick stop for fueling but I'll need a lot of crank if seating for more than half hour. It will start OK if seating for more than 2 hours.
Any suggestion ?
I have the 600 performer series, with similar issue. But mine does not start right up if it sits for more than a day or two the bowls seem to empty. Once started up it is fine, but getting to start after sitting a couple days is a matter of cranking it for way too long it seems. I know there are some plug seals under the carb that are known to leak sometimes. Filled them in with RTV so that is not the issue in my case.
I have had this carb in pieces numerous times, checked everything. Have good mechanical fuel pump, pressure regulator at 5 psi, good filter, lines etc etc etc. The carb is great but yeah whats with the lack of fuel after sitting? other than that the thing is reliable and trouble free.
I have the same problem, but I've got a Holley carb.
I have an electric fuel pump, so starting after not running a week or more is no problem. Always starts quickly when engine is cold. Also starts fine if only shut off for a short time. The engine will also start well when it has been sitting at a cruise-in with the hood open all the time. However, if the engine is warmed up well and sits for 15 or more minutes with the hood closed, it takes a lot of cranking sometimes to get it to start. Only happened a couple of times but is embarassing when it doesn't fire right off.
I haven't troubleshot this yet, but wonder if fuel is leaking into the engine while sitting and it gets flooded and takes the long cranking to air out the engine. Of course I haven't noticed a cloud of dark smoke indicating too much fuel.
It's a typical proplem with Holley and EDDY carbs with electric chokes. What is happening is the choke flap is closing way to soon before the engine has a chance the cool down. A hot engines will not start right away with the choke flap closed. It just sucks raw gas cause it to flood the engine. To cure the problem is the remove the choke flap and remove 1/8" on the top of the flap. This way when the flap closes there should be an air gap. Hope this helps.
You got me curious... Ordinarily the primary side is where the choke is located. Or are you asking whether to take material off of the choke flap that is closer to the front (primary) side or rear (secondary) side of the carb?
either side will work. To keep the choke flap balanced I would remove it from the rear part of the flap. The idea is to get some air to flow in when the choke fully closed, so it would not flood the engine end up with blue smoke out of the tailpipe.
No prob- I wasn't sure if it was me or what! But yeah, I think I'd do the front if I was going to do this mod.
The ends of the screws that hold the choke flap are "disrupted" to keep them from ever loosening or falling down into the carb/engine. If you want to remove the flap to work on it you will want to use a Dremel or a small file to remove those screw ends so the screws will come out w/o breaking off- getting a broken screw back out is a MAJOR pita, so avoid it altogether.
After the ends are ground down, turn the screw out a half turn then back in, then back out a half turn more, then back in, etc.- like if you were working w/a tap. This will lessen the chance of it breaking off.
Why not just drill the rivets holding the choke element, and adjust the tension on the choke? That is what you would do with a factory electric choke. If you remove 1/8" from the choke flap, yep, it will start good when it is warm , but when it needs FULL choke (i.e cold weather) it won't start so good. The choke stat is adjustable.
The choke unloader should kick the choke blade open once the engine fires up. If it's not, the vacuum to it may be blocked. Changing the choke cap will change how long the choke stay on.
The choke unloader should kick the choke blade open once the engine fires up. If it's not, the vacuum to it may be blocked. Changing the choke cap will change how long the choke stay on.
Changing the tension on the choke stat also changes at what temperature the choke begins to close. To do it properly, you need to cool the choke stat to a prescribed temp, and set it accordingly, but a good rule of thumb is @ approx 65*F, the choke should close, but have little to almost no spring pressure from the choke stat holding it shut. With the electric choke working, the current will heat the choke stat to the poit it will remain open, and kick down to curb idle, in about 5-10 seconds of engine run time.
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