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Old 05-20-2006, 08:30 AM
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Edelbrock Carter Carb. Adjustment

I don't have much experience tuning carbs and could use some tips. I'm putting an Edelbrock/Carter 600 on a stock 73 Chevy 350 with a cast iron manifold. Trying to figure out how to tune it once car is running. How do I set fast idle? Do I set fast idle before curb idle? Should I time it as I'm setting idles? Really don't have a clue here, so any help is appreciated. Carb has electric choke and car is manual tranny. I'm only looking for nice daily driver type of performance. Thanx in advance

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Old 05-20-2006, 10:55 AM
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the very easy, very simple to follow manual for install and tuning instructions are on line at Edelbrock with pictures and diagrams

why don't you read that and then ask what might not be clear

also use the "search" window above, just type in: Edelbrock carb
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Old 05-20-2006, 01:29 PM
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Edelbrock carb tuning

I assume this is their 1406. Like Red says, real easy to tune - tho I suggest you get the 1479 Calibration kit rather than the 1487. It costs a bit more but you have more choices. Use their record keeping system to keep track of the changes tho - you will never remember the jets, springs and rods you try. It will take 2-3 shots at getting it right and when it is all over, the carb will perform with the Holleys with less tinkering. Also, make sure you have a real good cannister filter, not a dinky in line or glass POS. I have run these since they first came out and my only problems have been dirt carrover from the tank

Usually you can pull it from the box and it runs OK, but needs tinkering for final adjustments then you can really get into it later.
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Old 05-20-2006, 02:18 PM
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agree, only dirt messes them up...$5, add a crystal clear plastic Purolator gas filter BEFORE the pump....handy cause it also tells you "whoops" outa' gas, actually is handy to tell you if the pick up in the tank is clogged (empty filter) and the pump will last longer

Ireland, he didn't say "new" so I didn't comment on "works out of the box" which is true

shad88, if it is used and not working correctly....99% of the time, it's dirt in one or more of the fuel or air bleeds....$9 for new gaskets, dis-assemble, give it a bath, re-assemble.....it works like brand new
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Old 05-20-2006, 05:08 PM
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Never a plastic fuel filter housing !!!

Red
I always assume the best and is a new part ..... which often causes me grief and pain.

I have the same problem with a clear plastic filter that I have with a glass one - they break and cause all kinds of grief like fires - this from experience and a well roasted F350/460CID
which cost me about $3-400 to fix the wiring and other soft parts forward of the firewall plus an extinguisher refill and a visit by the local fire dept.
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Old 05-21-2006, 03:21 AM
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shad88,
just to be clear, never use a plastic (or glass*) filter on the line from the pump to the carb
(and while I'm thinkin' of it)..... Edelbrock carb fuel pump pressure max allowed is 5.5lbs..."if" the carb mis-behaves that is one of the first things to check and is explained in the manual

old gas tanks like your 73' "vintage" tank are really bad for rapid rust scale build up inside due to condensation every time it gets hot then cold...gas sloshing loosens it, hit a pot hole "bam"...scale breaks loose....the coarse filter on the tank pick up (if it is still there) won't stop it

"an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure"... is why I stressed adding a filter on the hose between the inner fender and pump inlet....keep the scale out of the pump and carb

the plastic Purolator is big(?)....roughly 1-1/2"D x 1-1/2"T....
Ireland made a good point for safety....buy a "big" $5 metal filter, write the install date mileage on it with a magic marker....problem is "guesstimating" how many miles till it definitely should be changed....(?) cut it open after 10k miles to inspect the the element

*the rubber o-ring ends seals don't like the detergent gas...don't use one after the pump

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Old 01-23-2009, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shad88
I don't have much experience tuning carbs and could use some tips. I'm putting an Edelbrock/Carter 600 on a stock 73 Chevy 350 with a cast iron manifold. Trying to figure out how to tune it once car is running. How do I set fast idle? Do I set fast idle before curb idle? Should I time it as I'm setting idles? Really don't have a clue here, so any help is appreciated. Carb has electric choke and car is manual tranny. I'm only looking for nice daily driver type of performance. Thanx in advance
To set the fast idle, Pull back your throttle linkage all the way under that you will see a screw that is your fast idle screw. Start the car cold and see what the RPM's are at. If you need the RPM's higher, shut the car off pull back your linkage and turn that idle screw 1/4 turn. Start the car again and check your RPM's again. Continue to do this untill the high idle is where you want it. The choke will continue to warm every time you start the car so try to do these steps the lest times as possible. The carb idle can be done once the choke is warm and open where you can knock down the RPM's by just quickly give the throttle a quick high rev. Once the engine is at operating temperature you can time the motor. The car being manual should not make any difference.
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:35 AM
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http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf
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Old 02-08-2009, 09:13 AM
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I've been working on my 1406 today, so I can give you a little feedback from what I've found. This is on an SBC 350/290 hp crate engine with a Performer RPM manifold, TH350, in a 3/4 ton pickup.

I've had the 1406 for quite a while and it ran okay on my truck, but last weekend I sucked some debris in while I had the air cleaner off, and it wouldn't idle right (found venturi on one side was clogged). After I took off the carb top and cleaned out the venturi it fixed the idle, but for some reason I now had a significant off-idle hesitation that seemed like fuel starvation.

I started out with rechecking everything and blowing out all the carb passages again - found no more junk. I then reset the idle mixture, which is now set quite lean (about 1 1/2 turns out), and set the choke to the center index mark. I have about 19" of vacuum in park at 800 rpm and about 15" in drive at 650 rpm. I'm on the center setting for the accelerator pump.

I tried the 1406 #23 setting (richens both power and cruise) from the Edelbrock manual, (one rod size richer in power and cruise) and switched to 6" spring. It cured most of the problem, so I switched to an 8" spring and all hesitation went away. I then backed off to a 7" spring and it still ran well. I then switched back to the stock rod size and everything still runs great.

The final result - I only needed to change the step-up spring from a 5" to a 7". With the current settings I get a very slight hesitation if I floor it idle, but no problem if I accelerate normally from idle.

At this point I'm considering trying one step leaner on the rod size , just to see if it still runs well and maybe gets better mileage. I'm not sure if I would gain anything from trying a different setting on the accelerator pump.

Bruce
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:17 AM
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carb adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
I've been working on my 1406 today, so I can give you a little feedback from what I've found. This is on an SBC 350/290 hp crate engine with a Performer RPM manifold, TH350, in a 3/4 ton pickup.

I've had the 1406 for quite a while and it ran okay on my truck, but last weekend I sucked some debris in while I had the air cleaner off, and it wouldn't idle right (found venturi on one side was clogged). After I took off the carb top and cleaned out the venturi it fixed the idle, but for some reason I now had a significant off-idle hesitation that seemed like fuel starvation.

I started out with rechecking everything and blowing out all the carb passages again - found no more junk. I then reset the idle mixture, which is now set quite lean (about 1 1/2 turns out), and set the choke to the center index mark. I have about 19" of vacuum in park at 800 rpm and about 15" in drive at 650 rpm. I'm on the center setting for the accelerator pump.

I tried the 1406 #23 setting (richens both power and cruise) from the Edelbrock manual, (one rod size richer in power and cruise) and switched to 6" spring. It cured most of the problem, so I switched to an 8" spring and all hesitation went away. I then backed off to a 7" spring and it still ran well. I then switched back to the stock rod size and everything still runs great.

The final result - I only needed to change the step-up spring from a 5" to a 7". With the current settings I get a very slight hesitation if I floor it idle, but no problem if I accelerate normally from idle.

At this point I'm considering trying one step leaner on the rod size , just to see if it still runs well and maybe gets better mileage. I'm not sure if I would gain anything from trying a different setting on the accelerator pump.

Bruce

I was just thinking about the timing on the engine? if you changed some of those things in the carb. will readjusting the timing maybe take care of the hesitation when you floor it.?
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:28 PM
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I think a little more advance might help with the off-idle response. I'm running about 12 degrees BTDC, and about 18 degrees mechanical. My vacuum advance adds about another 20 degrees, so my total is 50.

Before I go any further with vacuum advance I want to use a piston stop and verify TDC. I bought the engine new and used the recommended damper and pointer, so the timing marks should be accurate, but I want to know for sure before I start pushing it for more advance. This engine has the GM 222/222 cam, and its supposed to run well with more initial advance.

Bruce
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:07 PM
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Did you try to get a hold of the manufacture to see if there is something you can do or you missed for the hesitation? They may have got a tech department you can discuss things with.
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:28 AM
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the cam will like more base timing,,,, increases the low rpms Hg,,,read this article:

http://www.gnetworks.com/v4files/bar...withimages.pdf

12+18=only 30* total,,,WOT the motor wants 34-36

if it pings on a steep hill at heavy part throttle (to much timing to soon) back off the vacuum advance added...

a stock dist usually has 20-22 cent so someone modified yours for 18* so you can use 16* base to help the cam...

it will make a big difference!!
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