[excaliberprime]

what is the best wire to run the possitive electronic choke wire to? it is an edelbrock performer carb with elecronic choke setting on a chevrolet 350

[chevyman420]

just hook it to the dist wire all it has to do is come on when you turn the key on so it is hot only when the motor is on or running

[johnnya]

Well, That's a nice, quick, simple answer, but there are people who have more complete answers.
Check these 2 recent threads on the subject.
Electric choke voltage &
electric choke problems
JA

[docvette]

Originally Posted by chevyman420

just hook it to the dist wire all it has to do is come on when you turn the key on so it is hot only when the motor is on or running

Doc here,

NEVER run any "Extra wires" from the coil + circuit of any coil..ESPECIALLY a high draw item, such as a choke heating element!

This Circuit is Dedicated AND protected to run the coil circuit ONLY..Coils can draw up to 20 amps, and Performance Coils can draw as much as 48 amps Full load draw..

IF you run a choke element, (and these can draw as much as 15 to 20 amps) you end up taxing the coil circuit and "load sharing" between the two devices..the element can act as would a ballast resistor on a remote coil , dropping voltage under load to 6 to 9 volts..On an HEI, this is not going to run..Or if it does, perform like "crap in a can.." The result is heating..the wire will heat up from improper gauge, (heat is current doing NO useful work) for the new load imposed..and BOTH circuits will suffer..the Choke won't open AND that $600 performance ignition won't even perform as well as a stocker..

GM , traditionally , uses a Choke Heater RELAY from the Field circuit ( the brown wire going to the idiot lamp from the alternator) to fire a relay coil, whose contacts provide power from the battery direct Via a fuse link or maxi fuse, to the heater element..

The relay ONLY energizes when the alternator has output..(engine MUST be running..) before the element gets power to heat up..In this configuration, If you are listening to the radio in the "Run" or ACC positions while working on the car..(and we ALL do that..) , or have the key on, while loading the car, belting the kids in, scraping ice from the windows..the Choke won't open on a DEAD cold engine..defeating it's purpose..

After the engine starts, it takes about 3 minutes to heat up, then bump the throttle to slip the mechanical detents, and it should return to full open choke, and normal curb idle.

Another little added bennie..when the alternator diodes start to fail..that relay will "Buzz" like a "mini shaver" from the raw AC, telling you BEFORE you have morning sickness (dead battery's every morning) that service is in order..

Doc

[Kellan_723]

I have a hard time with this electrical stuff. I have an edelbrock 600 carb with an electric choke on a GM 350.

The negative end of the choke is connected properly but the positive is not no connected to anything.

From what i have read in other fourms it is better to have the choke to not start heating up untill the motor is running if i am correct. So how would i wire it so it would be this way. In Docs post above he says to wire it into the brown wire from the alternator. I looked on my truck and i only found a red and a black wire.

Thanks alot

Kellan

[Jmark]

Hi Kellan and welcome to the HR forums!

I had an Edelbrock on my last engine for 12 years and had the choke wire spliced onto the large red + wire on my distributor. No issues. I now have an elect. choke Qjet on and it's wired the same exact same way, 2 years now. And on top of that, I also ran the same wire to an idle solonoid with no issues. I also ran an MSD high output module, which draws more amps than stock and it still works fine. It's up to you, but i've had no problems this way for 14 years. Quick, easy and clean. No fuss, no muss! LOL

Mark