[RotorHead]

I have a performer 750 sitting on a shelf that I can't use because it drips fuel into the venturi. I thought at first it might be due to over pressure but it does it even with my regulator almost all the way to 0. I was also thinking maybe needle and seat or airhorn gasket. Has anyone ran into this issue before?

[gonefishin']

Some things causing it is having the blades to far open to get it to idle because the timing isnt high enuff, pump pressure to much, float heavy or bad adjustment, worn or stuck needle valve, no gasget or 2 gasgets under needle seat, plugged up air bleeds. A air horn gsgt. bad will be a vac. leak usually not a drip from booster. Long shot is a missing or stuck check valve in the acc. pump. circut.

[RotorHead]

so should I just kit it and be done?

[cobalt327]

How big is your cam? If it has a lot of overlap and low vacuum at idle the throttle blades may be open too far like was said already. This causes the transfer slot to be over exposed and the engine will try to idle off the transition and idle circuits and this can cause nozzle drip. Adding initial timing and/or hooking the vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source can help this.

If the cam/ignition timing isn't causing it I'd be inclined to think the float level was too high, the float was damaged or the needle/seat assembly was bad. I'd want to take it apart and see what I could find and you'll need a kit to put it back together. That's all you should need unless the float is bad.

[RotorHead]

my cam is a lunati 60102 it's a 262 cam.

[cobalt327]

Then the cam isn't causing the problems because the O/L of that cam isn't much at all. I'd be looking into the carb-related problems that may be causing it that I listed above. There's a reasonably good to very good chance that a rebuild will cure it. Add a float if there's any question as to the condition of the old one and you should be A-OK.

Might be worth it to check the pressure on the carb side of your regulator to be sure it's working as it should.