- Make sure you get the right gaskets for the intake, either Edelbrock or Fel-Pro. It isn't hard to find the right ones, but Edelbrock emphasizes that there are some other types out there that do not seal well with an aluminum intake.
- The blocking plates have interlocking tabs and there should be 4 pieces. You put one side of the plate in from each side of the gasket and then bend the tabs to hold it in place.
- Just use spray tack-a-gasket to hold the entire gasket on the head and don't worry about sealing the plates to the gasket.
- Use a 1/4" tall bead of oil resistant silicone to seal the ends of the manifold to the block. Do not try to use the rubber end pieces if you got them with the gasket set.
- For the water ports you may want to use a very small bead of silicone sealer to supplement the blue bead that is already on the intake manifold side of the gasket.
- All of the inner bolts (8 of them?) go through the head flange and into the oil gallery. When you install those bolts you should use some oil resistant silicone sealer on the bolt threads. If you don't, oil will wick up the threads and you will get oil residue around each bolt head.
- On my engine I've found that its much easier to install the intake if you take off the valve covers first. My valve covers have fairly wide flanges that get in the way when you drop the manifold in place.
- Make sure you have the manifold lined up on top of the gasket, and then hand twist all of the bolts into the head. Look carefully again at the manifold and make sure it is even from left to right. Then start with the torque sequence in the Edelbrock instructions.
- It is hard to get a torque wrench onto the center bolts because they are close to the carburetor pad.