Edelbrock Intake Manifold Install
Model: Impala SS
Engine: 327 cui
This is my first attempt at swapping out a intake manifold and I need a little direction.
Problem: Old Edelbrock intake (12 years) cracked.
Attempting to replace intake manifold with new Edelbrock intake manifold model 27013.
-When removing the old intake, the first thing I noticed was that the old intake has 6 water passages (the new intake has 4).
-The previous owner, for whatever reason, blocked the 2 end passages (near firewall) with some sort of cement filler within the intake itself.
Someone advised me that my heads were "camel hump", is there a difference between a "stock" intake and "camel hump" as far as the number of water passages (6 versus 4).
-The previous owner also did NOT remove the gasket center holes for the
middle 2 water passages, thus it appears the old intake was only circulating coolant via 2 passages (back 2 blocked, middle 2 gasket blocked).
In comparing the old intake with the new, the new one has 4 coolant passages (the back 2 were machined closed by Edelbrock), I'm guessing that was either for performance improvement or stock versus camel hump head configuration.
Also, Edelbrock included 4 thin metal plates with the new intake, how are those used and do I need to use them? Note: The new intake gasket has cutouts for the 2 center passages, you can't see them in the pic.
So, is it okay to go forward with new intake install after clean-up of heads/ports and suggested configuration?
Note: See attached pics of intakes, gaskets, heads, engine, etc.
Edelbrock Intake Manifold Install
Look at your intake carefully. The first passages on both sides of the front of the intake is the water passages. The center passage is an exhaust crossover. This heats up the intake for cold weather climate. If you live where there are mild temperatures you can block it off with the metal provided with the gaskets. Check out Fel-Pro 1204 intake gaskets. Looking at the pictures it looks as if someone tried to plug the rear ports of the heads. Also the center exhaust cross-over looks as if it was plugged. This wasn't necessary. You install the gasket with a thin layer of sealer around the water ports front and back. Some gaskets provide the metal to block the crossover or the metal will have holes so it can be used. If you don't use the metal the exhaust will eat thru the gasket and leak.
In using the metal plates for the center "exhaust crossover ports" for heating intake under carb", how are the metal tabs installed?
These plates are flat on one side, and have 2 tabs that rise at 12 & 6 o'clock at the center of the holes in the metal plate.
Do the tabs go down or up into the heads?
Are they placed on top or below the gasket?
Do the tabs need any sealant/rtv, or just lay them down?
- Make sure you get the right gaskets for the intake, either Edelbrock or Fel-Pro. It isn't hard to find the right ones, but Edelbrock emphasizes that there are some other types out there that do not seal well with an aluminum intake.
- The blocking plates have interlocking tabs and there should be 4 pieces. You put one side of the plate in from each side of the gasket and then bend the tabs to hold it in place.
- Just use spray tack-a-gasket to hold the entire gasket on the head and don't worry about sealing the plates to the gasket.
- Use a 1/4" tall bead of oil resistant silicone to seal the ends of the manifold to the block. Do not try to use the rubber end pieces if you got them with the gasket set.
- For the water ports you may want to use a very small bead of silicone sealer to supplement the blue bead that is already on the intake manifold side of the gasket.
- All of the inner bolts (8 of them?) go through the head flange and into the oil gallery. When you install those bolts you should use some oil resistant silicone sealer on the bolt threads. If you don't, oil will wick up the threads and you will get oil residue around each bolt head.
- On my engine I've found that its much easier to install the intake if you take off the valve covers first. My valve covers have fairly wide flanges that get in the way when you drop the manifold in place.
- Make sure you have the manifold lined up on top of the gasket, and then hand twist all of the bolts into the head. Look carefully again at the manifold and make sure it is even from left to right. Then start with the torque sequence in the Edelbrock instructions.
- It is hard to get a torque wrench onto the center bolts because they are close to the carburetor pad.
The back water passages where never used.
Water is pumped down the sides of the engine, then it goes up into the heads and returns to the radiator through the front two passages passing through the thermostat. Do not worry about the pack passages.
One very important item to watch out for is that you put the correct length bolts into the heads. Some of the bolts line-up with some of the push rods. If you put a long bolt in there it will bend the push rod and the engine will NOT run smoothly. Just something to watch for.
Also if you are keeping the EGR valve then do not plug the cross-over passage.
Follow-up on "exhaust crossover"
A few clarification questions:
1. I've read that the "heat riser" ports are NOT really needed in fair weather states such as N. California, but then there are some that say they are recommended for daily drivers regardless of weather?
2. Are the holes in the "heat riser" metal plates designed to just partially
block the heat coming into the intake?
3. If I decide to keep the "heat riser" ports blocked, do I just keep them covered with the gasket? In other words, don't punch out the center gasket holes, or is there another set of metal plates that don't have a hole in them and block the heat completely?
Edelbrock Intake Manifold Install
Fel-Pro1204 intake gaskets have the solid plates that block the exhaust passage. Do a google search on fel1204. It might come up as FelPro Q1204. I know the Summit Racing website has a picture of the gaskets. If you decide to use the exhaust passage to heat the intake be sure to use a heat shield under the carburetor (EDE 9265)
The heat riser can be blocked off if your weather is always warm, unless you have a hot air choke. The hot air choke for a Quadrajet has a hollow tube that slips down into the riser passage, so I'm sure you know whether you have one.
There may be gasket sets with complete block-off plates, but I've always heard of folks just cutting the plate out of an old tin can.
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