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What make is the engine? If it's a Chebby, the heads are closer to 76cc if they're original.
You might be making somewhere around 300 HP. Or not. You say timing is at 14°- this is the initial timing, I take it? You should use about 36° total timing w/o adding the vacuum advance. Unless you modify the distributor, set the total to 36° and let the initial fall wherever it falls, unless it is too much initial timing to allow hot starts. If that's the case (hard starting due to too much initial w/the total at 36°), you'll need to modify the distributor to add to the mechanical advance available or add an ignition interrupter. On the other hand, if this drops the initial too low, you'll need to limit the mechanical advance allowed by the distributor, or use manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance so there's additional advance available at idle. |
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sorry they are 64 cc heads. i have another question. on my timing marks it goes up to 16 initial on the retarded side and 8 initial on the advance side. what do i do just guesstimate here or something to get 14? ive been having reman starter issues with grinding but have had motor running to break in new cam. ive4 bought 3 different starters, shimmed em aevery which way, bought new bolts, i cant get them to catch right. ive put so many starters in gm's n never had such problems.
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Quote:
On the tab below, "0" is just to the Left of the "A" in "AFTER". Each division is 2°. MAKE A TIMING TAPE to see what the total timing is, or to extend the tab so you can read further out than the tab goes. DETERMINING TDC will allow you to be sure the timing tab and damper are correct for TDC. Quote:
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brand new flex plate. im still not understanding the timing thing. i can build a motor to run mint with full confidence but when it comes to math like this im not confident. its jibberish. i have that same tab for timing like the pic. ive always timed by ear. being a new motor i want it done with a light. so when i plug the advance i should put the mark on zero and turn dist clockwise and it shoul move to the 6 mark then 8 mark and so on till 14 right. if i get timing tape i put the zero on the tape with the mark on the balancer? then turn it to 14 on the btdc side? idk. i have a hard time taking info like this from paper to doing it for real. i have a much easier time doin sht hands on if u know what i mean.
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The performer package is awesome on a torque build with 1800-1900 stall. For instance a 305 head 350/th350 with EPS intake and 3.08 8.5" rear 235/70/15s laid down 206 rwhp. Stock exhaust manifolds with 2.25" turbo muffler true duals. Tuning required a long curve 38 degress total, 18 initail and 2o in at 3200. 10 in the vac can at manifold vacuum ***. Cheapo ebay HEI controlling it all. Carb was a M4M Q jet dual pump G hanger , DR secondaries.
Forced downshift at WOT is intense. Tires burn off the OEM rally's. Smooth cruise. Not a corvette, but it is a hard pulling vehicle build. The RPM build was not so good for a road car. Poor actually, but dragster fast. |
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you can not say *** ?
How about nipple ? |
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sic |
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When using the tape, use the "0 or TDC" mark on the tab to align w/the tape's numbers- disregard the other numbers on the tab- the tape now takes their place. ALL you need from the tab is an accurate "0" degrees (TDC). Don't worry if it takes asking a few (more) times for clarification on this- it is a bit "quirky" to get at first- but if you stick w/it, it will make sense to you. |
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