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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
The baffles in the side exhaust may prove to be a critical factor.

They can supress/eliminate the scavageing effect of tublar headers, reducing in car engine torque output right where you need it to "light up the tires"

This is part of the difference between gross power seen on the dyno with open exhaust and real net in car power. This is another area to take a good look at. These baffles can be very restrictive.

May want to test with the baffles removed. may want to test with different collector -side pipe configurations. This can make a big difference in how it drives. Big cammed motors do not like exhaust restriction. They need to breathe deep to make power.
Definitely the pipes are restrictive. Loud, but restrictive. This is the problem with a street car... it can't be ridiculously loud, yet you still want to get the best out of the engine (which you've spent $$$$'s building!) The manufacturer of the car now supply sidepipes which are based on a (also larger bore) perforated inner tube with wadding for sound absorption. They're super expensive though (stainless steel, repackable, nearly $2,500) and I don't know how much difference they'd actually make.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 03:18 PM
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create your own. Ya the internal tube size in the default basffles leaves a lot to be desired on those. You can build new slip in replacements that are better than you can buy. Both in terms of volume and flow.

If you are handy cutting and welding exhaust pipe and sheet metal.
For $2500 you can do a lot of creating.
Nothing says you cannot borrow/steal a few muffler/baffle design concepts ( borla, dynomax, magnaflow etc)
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 03:45 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Well, I'm not really averse to the idea... I was just wondering if an alternative existed. Let's face it, modifying the advance base plate is a bit of a PITA... esp.as I don't have a welder. I'll get it done though... will be worth it by the sounds of things."

Why do you think you need a welder. it's a simple bolt and nut put in the advance mechanism as has been shown and explained to you and others about a hundred times.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
Well, I'm not really averse to the idea... I was just wondering if an alternative existed. Let's face it, modifying the advance base plate is a bit of a PITA... esp.as I don't have a welder. I'll get it done though... will be worth it by the sounds of things."

Why do you think you need a welder. it's a simple bolt and nut put in the advance mechanism as has been shown and explained to you and others about a hundred times.
Show me where in this thread that someone has said I can use a nut and bolt to limit the advance.

I appreciate advice, but I don't need attitude.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8hed
Show me where in this thread that someone has said I can use a nut and bolt to limit the advance.

I appreciate advice, but I don't need attitude.
I have posted on the simple way to limit the HEI travel.
Usiing a machine screw. No nut is required. just tap the hole and stick the right machine screw in. Search my posts.
If the machine screw is hard enough and the right size it will actually cut its own threads.

There is a very clear picture that says it all. Another shows how to limit a vac advance too with a home made limit plate.

If you want me to type it all out again for the 1000th time send money.

the info is there for free. Its a 15minute job. The tie wrap lock out is a 5 minute job. No need to weld anything on a |HEI

People are tring to help you on these simple basic tuneup things but you are very resistant. You're pissing people off. Its all been covered.

You have a very good base line to work off from your dyno tesing.
Now dial it all in to work in the car.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 04:24 PM
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Whoever I'm pissing-off should think about their motives for posting on these forums because if it's to help people (rather than massage their own ego), they should not respond with attitude and smart-*** comments to somone like me that just wants help. Instead of saying 'use the search buton' or something similar, it would be far more constructive to post a link or do what you just did and type the few words that were needed... use a machine screw to limit the advance. So much silliness goes on in forums and so much wasted forum space is given to people posting non-constructive replies. If anyone has an axe to grind, they should keep it to themselves and leave it to moderators to do the moderating, but some people just can't help themselves and will turn an innocent thread into a pissing contest.

As for being resistant? I've asked questions, that is all... if you don't ask questions, you don't learn. That's not being resistant... that's called wanting to understand.

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it, but I think this thread has gone far enough now.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 04:26 PM
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http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35990

Here you go. Now you ow me. If you want to know why you are doing this
search my posts. its all there on why a big cammed motor needs this mod to get a good bit more base/inital timing at idle.

Make sure the OEM GM start brace bracket is installed.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 04:58 PM
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beating a dead horse then

Quote:
Show me where in this thread that someone has said I can use a nut and bolt to limit the advance.
That was me then in post 17,,,its no big deal

Quote:
Depending on the dist you can in some cases limit the mechanical advance with a set screw that stops the rotor plate bar from adding advance once the edge of the plate reaches the head of the screw. This is different than the method of modifying/welding the slots or installing bushings on the spring posts. It is also much simpler and you won't need that welder
Anyhow I have attached a pic of mine to show a version of this method. You can see the small machine screw there butting against the rotor plate. Now the other larger screw is used to hold down a simple pointer. I was measuring the pointer travel around the circumference of the HEI base. I was trying to build a x-y graph of rotor plate travel vs engine timing advance. I think I came up with approx 17mm = 14 Deg mechanical advance in that particular case, but its been a while.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 04:58 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Silliness is 700+ posts on this silly Cobra kit car that you have basically paid other people to build for you. You say you come on here to learn....do you even check out other threads that don't have your precious project connected to them? There have been three seperate threads in the last week on changing the curve on an HEI and limiting total advance. Save the indignation and snottiness for when somebody really insults you. It hasn't happened yet and since three seperate people on here have gotten the same impression about you and this timing issue, maybe you should stop and think about it for a minute.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
Silliness is 700+ posts on this silly Cobra kit car that you have basically paid other people to build for you. You say you come on here to learn....do you even check out other threads that don't have your precious project connected to them? There have been three seperate threads in the last week on changing the curve on an HEI and limiting total advance. Save the indignation and snottiness for when somebody really insults you. It hasn't happened yet and since three seperate people on here have gotten the same impression about you and this timing issue, maybe you should stop and think about it for a minute.
It's people like you that give internet forums a bad name. Now go away and piss someone else off.

EDIT: I just did a search on your posts and it seems you come with the same bad attitude to most of your responses to people. I think you need to check yourself before you get banned.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 05:12 PM
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Custom10... thanks for the pic. I can't click if for some reason, but I get the idea after what F'BIRD posted. Sorry I missed your post... long thread!
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2011, 07:08 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Some people can take straight talk and some can't. That's alright. I have dozens of pm's from people who appreciated my advice and getting them to check themselves. That's what I dig. Guys like you? Posers. It only took 700 posts of your nonsense to get me to post.

I also have pm's from very well respected, long time members telling me how they are tired of acts like you and talk about leaving this site. Some already have. Others have been gone for about a month now and I hope they come back but I, and others, understand if they don't.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2011, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70 ElCam
Post a pic of your ride.
Here she is...




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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2011, 07:12 PM
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Here's another pic of the screw mod. Grind one side of the bolt flat. Keep trying it and grinding it until you get the advance band you need. I have my initial at 24* and about 14* of mechanical advance with the bolt flat to the threads on one side. Make sure the bolt is short enough not to interfere with the mechanism below it.

Here's mine from the side where you can see how long the bolt should be.


And here is another I found in another thread.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2011, 07:14 PM
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Thanks, this is something on my 'to do' list for tomorrow
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