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Old 06-24-2013, 06:48 PM
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EJ22E swapped 1999 Subaru does not run correctly when warm

A few weeks ago I finally got my Subaru Legacy SUS back together from doing an engine swap and full engine maintenance. Original EJ25D ( DOHC 2.5L ) ran on 2 cylinders warm due to coolant getting into the combustion chambers. Being that I knew the heads were jacked and it had run HOT at least once, I just decided to buy an EJ22E from an earlier car that I knew would swap. Ended up with a 110k mile EJ22E ( 2.2L SOHC ) from a 1996 Legacy. Did a timing belt with new idlers and tensioner, resealed the oil pan and replaced/resealed seperator plate cover. Also found 1 spark plug to be not quite like the other 3 so I just went ahead and did head gaskets while it was on the stand.. I also tweaked the original wiring harness to run the 1996 ignition coil ( I did buy a new coil also ). I used the original wiring harness because the 1996 did not use a purge control solenoid or have a connector for it. The ports for it and the mount was there tho, so I just put it on and it should be working correctly.. Throttle body is also from the EJ25 intake as the EJ22 throttle body was not as good of shape, and they are the same.
Everything was done as per OEM manuals using OEM procedures.
Now the problem. This engine sometimes starts and runs great, and others it starts and warms up just fine but then starts misfiring badly. I can do a hard reset ( disconnect battery for 10+ mins ) and it will run fine sometimes, until another start when it runs like crap... I thought it was a closed loop problem but I unplugged the MAF and re started and it runs like crap then too, except with a CEL and the AT temp light flashes.. I'm out of ideas? anybody?

I have OBDWiz and the OBDII SX adapter, but nothing looks out of the ordinary to me when it's running, and I have taken it down the road on the scanner. It just throws missfire codes

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Old 06-29-2013, 05:04 PM
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Ok so it seems it will run crappy once warm all the time now.. Going to chuck new crank and cam sensors and then recheck the timing if that does not do it. Also have a local dealer wanting me to swap parts correctly ( his mech won't touch it ) to make a 1999 Legacy 2.5 GT pass inspection as he got it on trade with a swapped engine that does not have EGR so it will not pass inspection. I may attempt to buy that car as it is nicer than mine and a 5spd
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:15 PM
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Sounds like the ignition coil isnt compatible.
Is the primary resistance for the 4 pac the same as the cop setup?
Also are you certain that ALL the sensors are the same (electrically) as the original engine has.
Seems to me the ignition will be the problem. not sure how you can go from COP to a 4 block coil pack, doesnt sound like it would work.
Also could have a big difference in the injectors (electrically)
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:59 PM
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Both coils are 4 pac's and the wiring colors is the same to both. I just swapped connectors to use the original cars wiring harness as the donor did not use a purge control solenoid. The original coil used a connector that plugged right into the side of the coil, but the 2.2L coil uses a pigtail connector. As far as the sensors, yes each and every sensor between the '96-'99 is the same except the knock sensor ( connector is also different ) and I'm running a brand new 2.5L knock sensor. I compared and crossed part numbers before ever calling on a motor even tho the swap is well documented.. Injectors are also the same flow rate and cross P/N's tho I do have the injectors on the original 2.5 intake I could swap out. Rockauto lists them as crossing.

Could it be the knock sensor dropping the ignition timing back so far it stumbles? There is a bolt hole right above where the knock sensor bolts in that I could place it in to get less harmonics I think

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Old 06-30-2013, 09:21 AM
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Could be the knock sensor. You can watch the computed timing on live data to see what it does while driving.
There may be a difference in the circuit in reference to the knock sensor. Some work on an offset voltage, in other words with some voltage applied , the sensor then generates a voltage ( when knocking occurs) it changes the line voltage, earlier types just generate a voltage and thats it. Having an offset setup lessens the chance for any stray voltages or EMI sources to interfere with a true signal.
Mounting location seems to be critical on the subies for some reason, also the orientation of the plug in does have an effect too. i dont know why , but it does.
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:34 AM
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Yep, the sensor is installed at the correct angle according to the factory service manual... The wiring harness is from the original engine so it still thinks it's a 2.5L, tho with a MAF and a MAP it adjusts enough to run the car with no CEL ( on a properly running swap anyway )... Only thing I can figure is if it is picking up too much harmonics. Both sensors are one wire sensors. The connectors are very different tho. One is a pain to get apart, and the other is less of a pain..
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