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Old 02-10-2009, 09:59 AM
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electric choke wiring

Does anybody know the real reason why they say not to wire a electric choke into the battery side of a HEI distributor wire? A lot of my street rod friends have done this and say they have never had a problem. They say the electrical draw is so minimal that it won't hurt a thing. This makes sense to me.

The edlebrock installation manual says not to do this but does not give a reason why. Any answers out there?

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Old 02-10-2009, 10:48 AM
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most solid state dist have a minimum "turn on" voltage...

if the batt is weak or starter is working to hard/worn the added load of the 4amps +(?) choke on the dist wire can cause no spark....

if the alt amp load versus output on the dist at idle is high,,,the choke will rob volts and amps from the dist and that affects spark quality...
(depends but can ruin the spark intensity up to 2000 rpms)

stock wires are usually #12 or #14 so the last thing you want is more load=heat=lost amps power to the ign....
(what you do want is amps in reserve due to no heat)

there are more good reasons but it's more of a caution versus DO NOT...
the ign switch can handle 30amps plus, just wiser to use a second wire to the choke...

you can test to prove it is ok, depends on the specifics of the car....
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:48 AM
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For one, it may be minor, but you are changing the voltage. Any resistance added to a feed wire, changes the end voltage. Some systems will not operate below 11.4 volts

2. If for some odd reason your choke stat shorts to ground, so will the voltage to your ignition.

The best way is to route the choke stat feed wire to an ignition on wire for accessories.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny
The best way is to route the choke stat feed wire to an ignition on wire for accessories.

Or better yet why not wire it to the alternator like the old factory method. When wired this way the choke will not start to heat up until the engine is running.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:42 AM
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Yes, that's very true. The older Fords were set to work on 6-8 volts anyway. Plus, you may want the ignition key on for different testing purposes.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Or better yet why not wire it to the alternator like the old factory method. When wired this way the choke will not start to heat up until the engine is running.
That is the proper way to do it. Go one better and run it from a relay energized from the alternator.

Vince
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:44 PM
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electric choke

How do you safely wire an electric choke into a chevy altenator. What is the procedure?
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:17 PM
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The wire to the choke or to energize the choke relay is connect to the field terminal of the alternator.

Vince
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:19 PM
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Safe Choke

Oh man ....wiring directly to the alternator gives me the cold chills for so many reasons.

I'd much rather you run a wire from the fuse box. At least then you have a fuse in circuit AND likely a fusible link. I seen no mention of fuses above.

Are you sure there's no wire in the harness for an electric choke?

You do want to be sure the wire is switched - only hot when the key is on.

Steve
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Old 02-12-2009, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58Apache

Oh man ....wiring directly to the alternator gives me the cold chills for so many reasons.

I'd much rather you run a wire from the fuse box. At least then you have a fuse in circuit AND likely a fusible link. I seen no mention of fuses above.
I'm still trying to get my seat cover out of my posterior. I can see the fires now...

It needs to be run off of a relay delivering full BAT VOLT on a keyed source fused.
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Old 02-12-2009, 05:11 AM
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...sheesh...

Last edited by KULTULZ; 02-12-2009 at 09:49 AM. Reason: There Must Be An Echo In This Board
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Old 02-12-2009, 06:56 AM
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The factories have wired it from the alternator for years and there were are literally millions of cars built that way. As was stated the reason for doing this is so that the choke does not start to heat until the engine is running, a much better set-up if you think about it otherwise the choke will heat up whenever the key is on ready or not! Wiring a fuse into this would be no problem and I fail to see a fire hazard here. Using that relay would certainly be a good idea since it would be easier to apply full voltage when it is time for the choke to open.
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Old 02-12-2009, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
The factories have wired it from the alternator for years
GMs used an oil pressure switch to activate the choke once the engine is running. Also, GM internal regulator alternators have battery voltage at the threaded post of the alternator even when the engine is not running.
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred

The factories have wired it from the alternator for years and there were are literally millions of cars built that way.

... and I fail to see a fire hazard here.
You see no fire hazard with a HOT WIRE hooked directly to an ALT ARM?

Again-

You want it connected to FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE through a keyed source. If it energizes with the IGN KEY on ACCESS position, it will burn the element eventually. You may notice that the vacuum inlet usually used for hot air intake has an inlet filter for cold air intake (previously used as vacuum draw for hot air) to cool the element. Also do not tie it in with any IGN circuits. This may lead to erratic engine running.

Connecting to S on the ALT does not source 12V. The STATOR connection is used in a factory setup as the choke is energized by both hot air (off exhaust manifold) and electricity. The STATOR supplies about 9V to allow the choke to vary in it's opening rate to allow for cold ambient intake air or partial cold starts. The electric power source allows for quicker choke opening for emmission purposes.

The choke circuit should operate off a dedicated relay delivering full BAT VOLT (13.2V).

Any heavy draw electrical retrofit (fuel pump-headlamp-ignition system-etc.) to an early chassis should have it's own fused/proper wire size relayed power source.
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:03 AM
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I decided to do a quick search to see what I could find on this and there are dozens of links to Ford, GM, etc even Toyota and Mazda even back pre-smog for the American cars. The first link here shows a typical diagram of a factory choke/alternator wiring using a fused circuit and a relay to provide full voltage.


http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php...and_Adjustment

Here is concerning a GM alternator/choke
http://camaroforums.com/forum/archiv...p/t-13408.html

http://www.chip.com/buick/techtips/choke.html

http://www.yotatech.com/f131/1985-22...c-choke-99608/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88020

http://forums.stangnet.com/772556-he...tic-choke.html


There are dozens more and this is done all the time, it actually is the proper way to wire a choke and is the way the factories did it and I honestly don't see the fire hazard.

Last edited by oldred; 02-12-2009 at 10:14 AM.
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