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Old 07-13-2012, 04:00 PM
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Electric engraver for rust?

I have been battling rust on my 56 belair rust bucket. I've replaced cowl drains, trunk panels, rocker panels, front floor pans, parts of the window channels,parts and pieces of the rear quarter panels and front fenders but you never can get every rust pit unless you just replace the whole car! After all this time and money, I want the rust to stay gone and how can I think that the rust will stay gone unless I try to eliminate the pits! I decided to use Ospho for places like the floor boards that didn't get replaced because the metal was still good (except for a few places with minor pitting) or for the inner rocker panels. Even with multiple applications of Ospho, there was still tiny black pits. I tried a 1/16" drill bit but that was a pain. Then I tried an electric engraver and stuck it right into the pits to vibrate the rust out. It's still time consuming but it does the job along with the ospho, wire wheel and a multi-purpose tool with a diamond grout blade that vibrates like the engraver. I don't think it will mark the other side of the metal because it vibrates not hammers. No more black pits so hopefully, no more rust! Any other suggestions to make the rust stay away?

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Old 07-13-2012, 04:05 PM
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:09 PM
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:31 PM
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Those tough places are where I find a spot blaster an invaluable tool. If you hold it tight against the panel most of the sand goes back into the gun so the mess is minimal. Just a little burst of the trigger goes a long ways.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:40 PM
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Nice job by the way..Yup the spot blaster is the way I go..Epoxy primer is the best 1st coat you can do..2 wet coats and then no more rust and you can proceed at your leisure to finish the rest of it..

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Old 07-24-2012, 10:10 PM
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electric engraver

i use that very tool when im doing 'lead work'..sometimes after sandblast there is still black spots in the pitted areas of a panel..Some guys will hold a sandblasting nozzle right on top and very close and blast away til the black is gone..well,thats a good way to generate to much heat by keeping the nozzle too close for too long and producing small dents or warping.I can get away with that on thicker car parts like the frame,heavy brackets etc..but not so with the thin door skins,fenders,decklid,hood etc.I cant always replace the steel in a a panel thats rusted..if its basically a good panel with some pitting,i will fill the pits with 'lead' but it must be EXTREMELY clean in order to make it stick and keep rust from developing under the lead.The engraver has a pinpoint which is good..some guys will also grind,gring,grind in an attempt to get down to good steel below the black spots..it works..but keep in mind when you grind..you are thinning already thin steel and likely a larger area of grinding than you need.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:15 PM
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woops i also wanted add,that after you get everything cleaned up and the black spots gone,Spray an etching solution on the plain steel.To get any remaining stains/oil reisdues etc off the steel.As for preventing further rust.I go old school enamel rust inhibiting primer,then a sealer and acrylic enamel paint.I have never used the epoxy paints/primers etc.But alot of guys love it and swear by it.ive got all old school painting equipment and no patience for the newer paints and primers,clear coats..at some point i suppose i shall be forced to use it but i wont until a absolutely have to
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