[warren bushing]

I had a dual Flex o lite unit on my Camaro with a Griffin radiator. The sensing probe was to be installed inside the upper radiator hose. I could never stop the post nasal drip with this affair so here is an alternative... Scrape the top of the radiator to bare metal and epoxy the probe to it. It worked fine for me and no problems with leaking. How does it cool down to 120º? Seems to me that the thermostat would close and hold the coolant until it was back up to operating temperature....W/B

[Centerline]

Originally posted by horvath
PS -- About the petc0ck -- after I put the new sensor there, how do I drain the radiator?? By removing the sensor??
PSS - Where are you at with your 53 Chevy Pickup, Bro'?

You just unscrew the sensor to drain it. That's the only way I know unless you take the opportunity to replace the lower radiator hose.

On the truck, I've been messing with the gas tank. changed the filler tube from the side to the top and moved the entire tank back 8" to make more room for the exhaust over the axle. Then fabricated the exhaust using Thrush Turbo Tube mufflers. Will finish the fuel line this weekend and start hanging all the accessories on the engine in a couple weeks. Next week we're going to the Pigeon Forge show and then down to Alabama to pick up the 64 Dodge Polara I bought.

Centerline

[horvath]

Very cool.

I'm planning on going to the Carlisle, PA meet in 2 weeks -- I hear it's one of the very biggest; people from all over the world come -- and it's only a 3 hour drive for me.

Also, it'll be my very *first* time going to a meet!!

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup

[vicrod]

The trinary switch does (3) things. It will have (2) circuits to wire into your compressor and electric fan.

functions

1- If the refrigerant charge is at the correct system pressure (compressor not operating) the switch will close thus permitting the compressor (clutch) to operate.
2- If the system pressure is to high the switch will open and shut down the compressor (clutch).
3- When the compressor is operating the normal system pressure increases and the cooling fan is turned ON by this switch.

circuits

1- for protection of the compressor.
2- for control of the cooling fan.

vicrod

[The Fan Man]

Please call us at *. We can take care of your problem.

[genr8rs]

This is a excellent discussion for me and I really appreciate everyone. I am currently rewiring my 36 Ford pickup.
The original wiring was a disaster. I am using a E-Z Wiring harness, and a Perma-Cool puller electric fan. I have a adjustable temp control relay module with the fan from Perma-Cool. The temp sensor for the fan is located in the bottom of the Griffin radiator where the factory located bung is. My temp sensor for the gauge is currently in the head below the headers, but I will be moving it to the top front of the intake manifold.
The Perma-Cool control module has 4 wires plus a RED #10 power wire that is to be attached to the power bolt on the starter for battery power. It has a in line fuse. The BLUE wire on the control module is to connect to a A/C relay ( dont have A/C). The BLACK wire is to be connected to GROUND, the YELLOW wire is to be connected to the fan and the BROWN wire is for a 2nd fan. The module will power 2 smaller fans.
In the E-Z harness there is a dedicated fan wire going to the front section. My questions are:
1- Should I be using a FUSABLE LINK ( I have seen Horvath mention) instead if the inline fuse for the fan power?
2- Can I use the FAN wire from the harness to manualy control the operation of the fan from a console switch, bypassing the temp sensor sending 12v to the module control. Isn't this what the AC relay is doing?
3- Are both temp sensors going to be in the correct location?
4- What temp should the 350 SBC run at and fan turn on?

Thank you for your coaching.

[pepi]

Centerline
" I would spend the $30 it will take (check here)" is this a good link? sounds like a part I would be interested in . The following is the message I am seeing when I try this link
Page Not Found

We're Sorry.

The page you are looking for cannot be found

[horvath]

Originally Posted by genr8rs

1- Should I be using a FUSABLE LINK ( I have seen Horvath mention) instead if the inline fuse for the fan power?

Definitely! If you ask me, there's nothing better than a fusible link ... fuses blow and you don't know it until your temp gauge starts screaming ... circuit breakers; same thing. The only time a fusible link will blow is when you have a very serious problem that needs your immediate attention.

2- Can I use the FAN wire from the harness to manualy control the operation of the fan from a console switch, bypassing the temp sensor sending 12v to the module control. Isn't this what the AC relay is doing?

I pass on this question ... Doc is the man to answer this one.

3- Are both temp sensors going to be in the correct location?

Top-front of the intake is where mine is ... and the gauge sensor in the head is also where mine is; both spots are working great for my 350sbc.

4- What temp should the 350 SBC run at and fan turn on?

My fan turns on at 190* and off at 170* (thereabouts).

Alan Horvath
54 Chevy Pickup

[docvette]

I pass on this question ... Doc is the man to answer this one.

2- Can I use the FAN wire from the harness to manualy control the operation of the fan from a console switch, bypassing the temp sensor sending 12v to the module control. Isn't this what the AC relay is doing?

Doc here,

You can use the existing wire to bypass and control the RELAY.. not the fan..(assuming it's an 18 ga wire) For a manual over ride switch..

IF common switch and wire, it would carry the current on it's own to power the fan (S) so you need to tap into the control relay..The switch (most common automotive stuff. ) is probably contact rated at 5 amps..and won't last too awfully long driving a 20 to 30 amp motor..same applies to the wire..should be at least a 12 or 10 gauge to be safe.

Doc

[warren bushing]

I had probs with my bb '67 Camaro. I installed the Flex-o-lite kit and epoxied the temp sensor above the top inlet on the aluminum radiator. It worked better than any other location I used, but, to be honest, I went back to a stock GM seven blade fan, snagged from an Olds. The electric unit would not keep the temp down during periods of slow traffic. Once out where it could ramble, it would cool down to 180, but rise while ideling. The seven blade hooked directly worked much better. W/B

[pepi]

[QUOTE=Centerline]Alan, I would move your temp gauge sensor to the location where you're fan sensor is now. This should give you a more accurate reading.

If your radiator doesn't have a bung for a fan thermostat, I would spend the $30 it will take (check here) bogus... not working got another

[kikkegek]

hi there,

i love this thread, but the "check here" link is not working.

can someone tell me where it is suppose to take me? or PM me the link...thanks!