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Old 07-14-2010, 01:28 PM
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electric fuel pump mounting

My mechanical pump stopped working the other day for no apparent reason, so i picked up and electric fuel pump to replace it because i seen to have bad luck with the mechanical pumps. Well anyway, it says to mount it close the the tank, but i was wondering if i could mount it in the engine bay? The directions say not to but i don't see why it would be a problem if its away from any major heat.

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Old 07-14-2010, 01:58 PM
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elec fuel pump........

Hi,an electric fuel pump is designed to push fuel,NOT PULL FUEL,they should be mounted as close to the tank aS POSSIBLE,USING A FUEL FILTER before THE PUMP..
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:01 PM
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OK, THATS GOOD TO KNOW. Are electric pumps kinda noisy or are they quiet? I'm trying to decide where to mount this thing...
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:03 PM
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Agree they need to be near the tank. I mounted mine by fabing a simple L shape bracket with some gussetts and welded it to the trunk floor near the front of the gas tank then bolted the pump to it.. and NO the gas tank wasn't in place at the time of welding haha

I have also seen them simply bolted to the inside frame rails near the tank, room permitting. Dont forget your filter before and after the pump.
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:16 PM
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alright, so under the car should be fine or can they not get wet?
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Old 07-14-2010, 03:06 PM
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are the electric fuel pumps allowed to get wet?
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:15 PM
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They can get wet, wrap your connections well or make them up inside the trunk if possible.

Electric pumps can be loud, yes. Most come with rubber grommets on the mounts, it helps some.
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:18 PM
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See post #5 here....
do i have to cut hard fuel lines?
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Old 07-15-2010, 04:11 AM
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If you mount/hang the pump on a proper rubber isolation bracket it will not be noisy.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:26 AM
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A gerotor-type pump will not tolerate ANY debris. So it is especially important w/them to filter before the pump.

Using hard lines is considered safer, but there's nothing wrong (IMO) w/using stainless steel braided hose from the top of the tank where the OEM line enters the tank, down to level w/the bottom of the tank and over to the frame rail. From there, I'd use a short piece of braided line to connect the (now) cut off OEM line to the outlet side of the pump.

So, tank outlet on top of tank to braided line to fuel pump inlet to OEM hard line at the pump outlet.

IIRC, NHRA allows 12" of rubber fuel line, TOTAL, for the fuel system. I do not know what they classify braided SS hose as, but I'd bet they call it rubber. So my description will likely be technically illegal for NHRA competition.
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:08 PM
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I 2nd (or 3rd) the gerotor pump approach. They are made for longevity which is key on your street pounder.. nothing sux more than hitting the on-ramp on the freeway ahead of that BMW M series and then coasting off to the shoulder cuz the vane type pump gave out again ... as he goes buy with a smirk, a latte and his air conditioning cranked...

I will also add that you can barely hear my Holley gerotor pump running in the key on position and you cannot hear it over the exhaust at all. Not the case with the many of the vane pumps, they are ridiculously loud some of them almost comical..

As far as moisture, just use heat shrink tubing on the electrical splices (no electrical tape please!!) and you will be fine.


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Originally Posted by cobalt327
A gerotor-type pump will not tolerate ANY debris. So it is especially important w/them to filter before the pump.

Using hard lines is considered safer, but there's nothing wrong (IMO) w/using stainless steel braided hose from the top of the tank where the OEM line enters the tank, down to level w/the bottom of the tank and over to the frame rail. From there, I'd use a short piece of braided line to connect the (now) cut off OEM line to the outlet side of the pump.

So, tank outlet on top of tank to braided line to fuel pump inlet to OEM hard line at the pump outlet.

IIRC, NHRA allows 12" of rubber fuel line, TOTAL, for the fuel system. I do not know what they classify braided SS hose as, but I'd bet they call it rubber. So my description will likely be technically illegal for NHRA competition.
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:29 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. Hey ss66chevelle, i took a look at your photo album and you are doing a beautiful job on that chevelle. I love to see old cars get restored instead of letting them rot away. How long has it taken you so far?
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:40 PM
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Thanks! it's been a 7 year project so far.. mostly because of the tremendous cost.. but I still hope to get it on the road this season before the snow flies!!

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Originally Posted by bigdog7373
Thanks for the help guys. Hey ss66chevelle, i took a look at your photo album and you are doing a beautiful job on that chevelle. I love to see old cars get restored instead of letting them rot away. How long has it taken you so far?
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:44 PM
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where did you get the parts for the interior? I can't find anyone who makes a complete kit for a 78 firebird.
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:50 PM
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Just so everyone knows, the maximum 12" of non-metallic fuel line allowed on a race car by NHRA does not apply to stainless braided line. You could plumb the entire car with SB and pass tech anywhere.
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