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Old 12-22-2005, 10:34 PM
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electric smog pump

I have a 1996 Lumina LS 3.4 engine.
The check engine light comes on and when I hook up the code reader I find a 0410 code. This is the smog pump located under the front right fender just below the head light bucket. I pulled the pump out and hooked it to 12v battery and it runs like a top. I then hooked it up,to the car, but just hanging out the bottom of the fender. I then start the engine and just like it should the pump kicks in. I figure that one of the connectors was loose and set the code. I put everything back together making sure all connectors were clean and snug and locked.
The engine runs great but after about seven engine starts it sets a 0410 code and the check engine light comes on again.
My question is what kicks the pump on? How can I find out what is causing this code? Maybe a wiring diagram could help.

Thanks
Scholman

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Old 12-22-2005, 11:43 PM
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Doc here,

Looks like the Signal is controlled by EGR modulator input through the ECM, and directly, and the only other Componet is the Airpump relay, whose control circuit Signal is controlled by the ECM (assume the EGR inputs)

I'd look at a bad EGR or O2 sensor...



Doc

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Old 12-23-2005, 06:01 AM
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docvette,

Thanks for the info I will check things out when the wife gets back home. Thanks for the wiring diagram that is a big help too! Is there a way to make it bigger? My eyes aren't what they used to be.

Scholman
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Old 12-24-2005, 12:30 AM
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Just like old air systems there are other parts involved. The pump seems to be working but is the air getting into the exhaust? The ECM is looking for a change in the 02 readings with and without the injected air to evaluate the systems performance. I might look up stream from the check valve testing dynamically to see if air is getting there. I think there is a switching valve solenoid involved as well. Since your not getting other 02 related codes that sensor is likely good.
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Old 12-24-2005, 11:16 AM
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Driveability,

Thanks for your input.
When the wife got home from work the light was not on but she uses the freeway. I took the car to the store and when I was coming home the light came on again. I rolled down the window on the right side of the car and I did not hear what I call the "turbo" whine of the smog pump. So I pulled into the garage and opened the hood and found the red and black wire that runs down to the pump and the electric switch that controls another part of this air injection system. The pump and this switch are connected by the same red and black wires. So I took the connector plug apart and then connected a wire from the black wire to ground. I then connected a jumper wire from the red wire to a 12v battery terminal. I could hear the switch "clicking" but no pump motor. The other day when I hooked 12v to the pump like this it kicked right on like nothing was wrong. I am thinking the pump is just shot and the other day when it worked "just fine" was it's last gasp at working. I am going to see if I can find a pump at a wrecking yard here is town.
I figure it will cost around 120 dollars used so do you think I am making the correct diagnosis?

Thanks for your help
Scholman
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Old 12-24-2005, 06:06 PM
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Doc here,

unplug the Pump MOTOR...

Get out your DVOM , and set it for R X 1 , place the red probe on the red wire, black to black...The reading should be 000..+/- Calibration and lead length..

Next VERY slowly turn the motor like 1/8 of an inch at a time..and watch the meter, It should not drop or "Bounce" at all 000 all the way around.

If you get a dropout or "bounce" you have a bad pick up pad, A pickup pad that is highly carbonized, bad brush or brush follower , or one winding open..You can pull the motor down and inspect, and repair as needed before buying a new one.

If the motor checks good put meter on V X 50 or autorange, your probes on the engine side of the harness Polarity Correct, and run the vehicle in the configuration that normally turns the pump on..Does it show 12 volts? If not but you hear the Click, the control circuit IS operating properly, But the Contact Circuit (motor power ) is not..The Relay contacts may be burned , pitted , or broken..try another relay. If you get NO Click the relay control circuit IS not working (the Coil) Check BOTH fuses..the 25 amp fuse and the coil fuse probably 5 amp located on another fuse, and unmarked..(you'll probably have to pull & Check them all to find it..)

If you have an open winding as above , pump replacement is pretty much a done deal..the rest you can fix as you would like you were rebuilding a standard starter.

A little sidebar here..Never assume something IS 12 volts Analog on a Computer controlled Car..It may be 5 volts..Or could be 12 volts pulse width modulated..(the ground is strobed proportional to demand or output from the computer buffer..Like a fuel injector) where a hard 12 volts and ground will burn things up!

Doc


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Old 12-24-2005, 10:18 PM
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THANKS DOC!

I just knew you would know the answer to this problem. I will dig into it on Monday, church and family tomorrow.

Thanks again
Scholman
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Old 12-26-2005, 02:27 PM
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Docvette,

I wanted to let you know that I tested the wires coming into the pump with a DVOM and found that when I start the car up the computer sends 14.56 volts to the pump. But when I reconnect the power to the wires leading down to the motor the pump motor does not run.
You mentioned that I needed to hook the ohm meter up to the motor leads and then turn the motor slowly to see if there is an open. The problem that I am having is that the motor is in-cased in a water tight shell with only the air hose connections(intake and exhaust) and the black and red wires protruding from this shell. I am leary of breaking this seal because then I figure water from the front wheel will get into the motor and SHORT the thing out all together. Also this shell is plastic and I am affraid that it will break into pieces before I could even see the motor or it's brushes. SO I think I will call around tomorrow and see how much a smog pump will cost and then replace my non-operational smog pump with the used one from the wrecker, and be done with it.
(I would have sent this as a PM straight to you but I haven't figured out just how to do that, yet:-)

Thanks For Your Time
Scholman
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Old 12-26-2005, 10:40 PM
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Doc here,

If it is that encased, the best thing to do is replace it if you have a cheap replacement available to you. Sounds like you may not be able to get into it without destruction.

Remember, Because it reads 14.56 from the computer Buffer, DOES not mean there is any current available to run the motor ( Actually, the relay coil for the motor) from the buffer. Like a dead flashlight battery, with no load, reads 1.2 volts, put a load (turn it on) on it, it goes to zero..A buffer Can act the same way..you may be plugging the motor in and the output goes to zero.

Try the motor first..I find it suspicious that it ran once fine at 12 volts, and the next time it's dead..sounds more like an intermittent harness ( given past history) than the motor..but Coincidences Do happen..

Doc
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:15 AM
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Doc,

I found a pump with all the hoses and wiring still hooked up at a wrecking yard here in town. 80.81 out the door. I took the old one out and put the new one in. I changed the electric switch that is hooked in line with pump too. This switch allows vacuum to the diverter valve when the pump comes on. Hey, I got it with the new pump so I changed it out.
So far so good. No codes and no dash light, the wife is very happy.
Thanks for all your help.

Scholman
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:56 PM
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Doc here,

No problem, Glad to hear it's running now!

Sounds like a winding or brush opened up on that motor..at any rate It's back on the road again!

Doc
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