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Old 01-30-2007, 08:05 AM
84Z 84Z is offline
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Electric water pump, what gpm? New fan?

I recently found out that the engine, on my street car, was partially filled with filler. I right now have a victor jr water pump, 3 pass 31x19x3 aluminum radiator, and a permacool 16" blade fan (no shroud).

When I was driving around, before it snowed, the engine would stay at 160-170 constantly. When I idled the car for a long time, it would creep to 180-190, but wont go up. When it was a bit warmer out, it would be fine when I'm driving but when I idled it would creep to 230+, that's when I shut it off.

I'm going to get an electric water pump, so it can be running at full speed at idle and hopefully cool the car down. I was looking at getting a Meziere 300 series (55 gpm) just because I dont want to find out in traffic that a 37gpm won't cut it. Before hand I was looking at the aerospace electric water pump (37 gpm, and draws only 4.5 amps which is less than any other electric pump). The Meziere 300 series (55 gpm), draws 10 amp, and the csr 60gpm one draws 11. So that's why I was looking at the aerospace water pump, because of how little it draws. Normally I wouldnt care about how much juice it's sucking down, I'd just spray a little more, but the pistons are the weak link on this engine and I dont plan on tearing it down for a while. That's why I'm trying to squeeze all the power I can out of it now, but obviously I dont want to cheap out and not get the proper stuff. Do you think the aerospace would suffice or should I go with the 300 series?

Also, the fan I have now doesnt have a shroud, I was looking at flex a lite's 292 fan, pulls 4600cfm of air, shrouded, and fits my core perfectly. Do you think purchasing the pump would be fine without a new fan? I'm worried about the hotter days, 90 degrees+. I know I'm going to have to pull over every now and then to let it cool down, but it should cool down fast by just switching the fan and pump on, so I'm not too worried about it.

Also, do you have any tips for helping cooling. I know that a 30% mixture of coolant and water is ideal, and I could add some water wetter to that, but is there anything else I can do? Thanks for the help.

EDIT: It's a 408 sbc. I also have a pretty 40k gvw transcooler attached to a th400. If that helps

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Last edited by 84Z; 01-30-2007 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:26 AM
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Cooling

Installing a fan shroud will drastically improve your system's efficiency. Also, the radiator and support bulkhead must be sealed to prevent hot air from circling back through the radiator through openings between the rad and support, through the headlamp openings and other opening in the rad support. This includes sealing the hood to top of the rad support.
You can improve heat transfer to/from the coolant by adding "Water Wetter" or similar product. We used that stuff to reduce heat problems on a 950 HP Mustang that had to survive being driven on the street at low speeds from time to time.
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:17 PM
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AIRFLOW, AIRFLOW, AIRFLOW

As long as the flow of the electric water pump under pressure exceeds twice the maximum free flow of the radiator, you will be okie dokie. (radiators don't operate at free flow.... the pump is pushing and pulling)


By your description your problem is AIRFLOW.

That FL 292 sucks 4600 cfm free flow..... not through a radiator. 2/3 that if you are lucky.

Mike is correct.
But you also need to seal from the bottom of your core support to the bumper, and from the core support to the hood. This will prevent your fan from sucking hot engine compartment air into the front at low speeds/ideling.

I think you are wasting your money on elec. water pump and elec fans.

I would install a factory type shroud and thermostatic fan clutch with 7 fan blades. And drive my water pump no less than 1/1, preferably 110%. Your problem will go away. And a clutch fan draws almost no power. A high efficiency water pump is probably a waste of money too.

Proper installation is very important. Fan must be into shroud a maximum of 3/4 inch.

Overheating can be reduced by running your heater full blast.

Next.... a block partially filled with hard-block will NOT make coolant run hotter, but cooler.

The OIL will run hotter, since the splash oil is not getting cooled by the lower skirts,,,,,,

so you should have a thermostatically controlled oil cooler on your street driven engine. Jegs has them, most oil thermostats are listed with trans coolers/ engine coolers. I'd install a temp gauge in the oil pan.

Been dealing with this for at least 20 years.

Last edited by xntrik; 01-30-2007 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:50 PM
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bump to front,

more opinions, advice ???
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Old 02-01-2007, 05:30 PM
84Z 84Z is offline
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anyone else?
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