Anybody have experience with electric water temp gauges? I've always run the mechanical gauges but I'm having some bad luck with them lately.
The first one broke when I got the sender tube too hot.
And the second one broke as I was messing around with my gauge cluster. I must have bent the tube funny because now it reads 160 degrees (engine off and cold).
So I figure an electric gauge would make it easier to install and mess with.
Any thoughts? Can I trust them? I'm always wary of messing with something "new" when it comes to a critical aspect of engine management.
The electrical work better then tube because you have more warnings then just a dial. You can install a buzzer, or have fans come on, ac clutch turn off and so on to reduce that temperature when it reaches a set level.
Given the opportunity place the sensor in the block where the probe will always be in the path of moving coolant. What you absolutely do not want is to place the probe where air inside the closed coolant system will mess with the reading.
I am really skeptical of exterior probes of any type and do not use them.
Given the opportunity placing 2 or more probes throughout the cooling system will give you a early indication of a issue. Such as a probe at the rear and one at the front of the block, and a probe at the radiator itself will give a indication of a issue letting you shut down the engine early before any damage is done. You really only need one gauge. But having a idiot light that turns on when say you have thrown a belt stopping the water pump from turning can save your engine. For instance if you have a single coolant probe in the radiator alone that is going to show signs later then if the probe is in the block.
On the other end if your single probe is in the block that is not going to give any indication of a slow leak in the radiator/overflow and a low coolant level causing increased radiator wear and possible failure.
I use an electric water temperature gauge in my Camaro with no problems at all. I install my sending unit in the intake manifold on the right side of the housing.
i had to chuckle when i read this seeing as the last 8 pre 1960s vehicles i've owned all had electric water temp gauges
your definition of new technolgy and mine differ greatly
Yeah... I was just asking the quality/reliability of the aftermarket electric gauges. It seems that the parts stores only carry the mechanical ones and that is all I ever put in my project cars.
if you are going to run electrical gauges... print and perform the voltage drop test.. http://i.imgur.com/Mo57rdb.jpg since many use the ground side as half the temp sender circuit.. the first 4 steps are probably all that is needed. test 5 and 6 are optional but can help prevent repeated alternator failures..
if you are going to run electrical gauges... print and perform the voltage drop test.. http://i.imgur.com/Mo57rdb.jpg since many use the ground side as half the temp sender circuit.. the first 4 steps are probably all that is needed. test 5 and 6 are optional but can help prevent repeated alternator failures..
Thanks Wayne for that interesting info. I have a friend that likes to play with cars some and I have been trying to teach him how to read and operate a DVM and to interpret the readings. This just may help him..
Electric gages give you the most options as far as routing and ease of installation. Sending units installed in the head will run hotter than in the intake manifold.
The former owner of mine must have felt he needed both, two of everything LOL...
Although I would never have done it since I have both I can tell you this...
My mech oil press gauge reads a tad lower on idle but absolutely identical from idle on. My mech water temp reads @10 degrees higher at full operating temp but they move up and down identical to each other at the same difference. I wouldn't hesitate to use either
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