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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2011, 08:36 PM
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Mike, I'm not sure for 72, does your car have the external voltage regulator?
(You will have a two wire connector from the alternator going to a four wire connector on the regulator mounted on the rad support).

If you do, then you might have a later model (75?) alternator with the voltage regulator built in. There is a conversion for this , search the forum for one wire alternator conversion.

But I'm puzzled that it is putting out 14 volts yet you have a dead battery. Maybe the external regulator circuit is putting a load on it. How long does it take for the battery to go dead?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2011, 08:51 PM
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http://www.classictruckshop.com/one_wire.php

Link above is good info on one wire alternator.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:30 PM
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electrical issue

the alternator and battery are brand new the alternator has the built in regulator it takes about 2 days for the battery to drain i dont get why the test light only goes out if i take the plug out of the alternator i am going to check out the same set up on my 72 z28 mike
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:55 AM
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I think you have one of two possible problems....... Did the car ever run and charge correctly.....battery didn't go flat? If so I'd say your internal voltage regulator has gone bad (just because it's fairly new doesn't mean it's good). If you are unsure if it ever worked right.... I'd say you have a wire crossed somewhere in the conversion.... and the alt is charging when running but when you shut it off the internal regulator is shorting to ground and draining the battery (that's what happened to me) bottom line verify the terminal on the alt go where they are supposed to go, in my case I had the 1 - 2 terminal wires reversed, swithed them and all was well. attached is Doc's conversion dia.
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:59 PM
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electrical cook out

i tryed wiring like you suggested bringing power from a switched terminal to one side of the volt meter hooked a ground to the other and it pinned and started to fry hopefully i caught it before it did any damage so the other side of the gauge does NOT go to the ground the gauge itself is grounded through the mounting bracket so where do i run the other side of the gauge to?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2011, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the plumber
i tryed wiring like you suggested bringing power from a switched terminal to one side of the volt meter hooked a ground to the other and it pinned and started to fry hopefully i caught it before it did any damage so the other side of the gauge does NOT go to the ground the gauge itself is grounded through the mounting bracket so where do i run the other side of the gauge to?
Either the gauge is defective or you have an ammeter not a voltmeter. Or is this gauge equipped w/3 wires, one for lights?
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:48 PM
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I'm sorry - hope the guage is OK.

Let's start at the beginning, what guage do you have?
Aftermarket or original/repro?
Make/model? Part Number?
Did it come with instructions that identify the terminals on the guage?
Any cautions about grounding the terminal?
Do they say it is internally grounded?
Are the terminals on the guage marked?
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:20 PM
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elecrtical dum dum

ok im 51 had hotrod/ muscle cars since i was15 and still dont remember the golden rule never assume things you know the rest. after doing some research i learned the bat gauge is an amp gauge so can you please help me to wire this in do you cut into the red lead going to the alternator or is there a better spot to tie in? also heres problem #2 i put a test meter between the pos bat post and the bat cable an am getting 10 volts. should be 0 right when i take the plug out of the alternator it drops down to 5 volts fyi i pulled out all the fuses and still getting a reading what do you think mike
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the plumber
ok im 51 had hotrod/ muscle cars since i was15 and still dont remember the golden rule never assume things you know the rest. after doing some research i learned the bat gauge is an amp gauge so can you please help me to wire this in do you cut into the red lead going to the alternator or is there a better spot to tie in? also heres problem #2 i put a test meter between the pos bat post and the bat cable an am getting 10 volts. should be 0 right when i take the plug out of the alternator it drops down to 5 volts fyi i pulled out all the fuses and still getting a reading what do you think mike
Mike, in all honesty I'd recommend you not use an ammeter, period. They do nothing that can't be done w/an "idiot" light and a simple voltmeter. The ammeter has to have the main buss run through it to tell you much of anything useful, and this alone creates a hazard for shorts and possible fire. And it may well be fried anyway.

If you just have to have the ammeter, first see if it's still any good then get back to the thread, or perhaps someone wants to expand on where to tie it in at, anyway.

Problem #2
If you have a clock, radio w/presets, a glovebox light that stays on, etc. that will cause a draw on the battery and this will register on a meter. Any of those things could also drain the battery.

My money is on either the alternator/regulator is faulty, or the wiring itself wasn't done correctly.

Are you positive the Nova was converted to an alternator w/an internal voltage regulator? Is it set up as a 1-wire alternator, or the original (and superior) 3-wire set-up? Has the battery been recharged correctly- as in taking a long time w/a low amp charger, not a fast charge? Is the battery any good- as in has it been load tested after being correctly charged?
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:13 PM
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Mike - I want to help.

But, its hard to give good advice without knowing what you are dealing with.

Also, focus on one problem at a time.

Then consider that the wiring in your Nova is more than 40 years old.
There could be several problems at once, that may or not be related.

For the ammeter installation, we need to check the meter and figure out how it should be wired. See my previous post for information needed to figure that out. Properly done, the ammeter is OK, although, like Cobalt said, I prefer the voltmeter.

As for the test readings, the voltage reading between the battery and the cable I assume is made with the cable disconnected. (If not, that's an entirely different issue). The 10 volt reading means you are drawing current through the meter and any circuits connected (w/ign sw off) such as the alternator field coil (and/or internal regulator). Ideally that voltage would be zero, because there is no current path through the positive circuit back to ground, however there are usually a few high resistance circuits connected, even though the ign is off. (like Cobalt said, clock, etc). Because the voltage dropped to 5V when you disconnected the alternator (field coil) circuit, it looks like you have a bad part there. (Like Cobalt said, this can easily drain a battery fairly quick).

I'll have to research the checks/testing for your alternator. I'll need specifics, do you know the type? Search the knowledge base or the forum and you'll find info on identifying your alternator. If it's under warrenty, it might be easier to just go ahead and get a replacement.
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:36 PM
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alternator issue

the alternator and battery are both new however someone put in a alternator plug from a 75 can i just switch the two wires on the plug around without harming the alternator also there is no clock the lighter is disconnected and there is no radio yet i pulled out every fuse twice and there is still a reading between the pos cable and pos post
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:49 PM
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Look at the dia in post 19..... check to see if the wires on the plug on your alt matches the dia...... that is terminal 1 should end up at the idiot light, terminal 2 should end up at a factory splice that feeds the fusebox, horn relay etc...
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the plumber
the alternator and battery are both new however someone put in a alternator plug from a 75 can i just switch the two wires on the plug around without harming the alternator also there is no clock the lighter is disconnected and there is no radio yet i pulled out every fuse twice and there is still a reading between the pos cable and pos post

I'm a little concerned when I see you asking about 2 different styles of connectors. There are 2 different charging systems possible in the 71 - 72 year range. See the pictures below.






A 10DN series used an external regulator and a connector with 2 vertical connectors.

================================================








A 10SI used an internal voltage regulator and a "flatter" connector with horizontal electrical connectors. Your 1975 Camaro almost certainly would have used this style, but the '72 Nova could have used either style.

Last edited by 66GMC; 10-28-2011 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:32 PM
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alternator question

the alternator and plug are definetly the 2nd type what are your thoughts on switching the wires on the plug around since someone had added this at some point? also if i put my volt meter between the post and cable with the plug out of the alternator it is only moving up slightly. if i swap the leads around it shows a little less than o . what gives it is a brand new volt meter mike
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2011, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the plumber
the alternator and plug are definetly the 2nd type what are your thoughts on switching the wires on the plug around since someone had added this at some point? also if i put my volt meter between the post and cable with the plug out of the alternator it is only moving up slightly. if i swap the leads around it shows a little less than o . what gives it is a brand new volt meter mike
Reversing the polarity will drive the needle (or digital display) "backwards".

Is the internal regulator alternator set-up original? I would have thought it was added on at a later date, all them I've seen like yours ('72 Nova) were externally regulated alternators like the first one above, originally.
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