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Old 10-29-2005, 09:21 PM
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electrical help

i have a 1964 bel air waagon with 350, and i can't get it started.i,m not getting fire to plugs. what should i do?

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Old 10-30-2005, 01:56 AM
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64 chebby

Originally Posted by japglass
i have a 1964 bel air waagon with 350, and i can't get it started.i,m not getting fire to plugs. what should i do?
Doc here,

More info needed:

No Spark at all? or just during cranking?

Is this a Transplanted 350 or a 327 masquerading as one? (stock mill?)

Is the distributer points or HEI?


System checks for both:

If it's an HEI system, check the big red wire marked BATT on the side of the dizzy cap..put a DVOM on it and set it for V X 50 and turn on the key..it should read 12 volts...Then have someone crank it, it should NOT drop out..

If you don't have 12 volts at that wire, back track it to the ignition switch or fuse box switched buss, look for an open or broken wire, bad switch OR if it's on the switched side of the fuse buss, a bad fuse..fix or replace..

You can run a jumper for a test to that BATT terminal straight from the battery and crank...if it starts & runs the former is the course of action needed....

If it only has 12 volts in the run position...but drops out in Start..you need to add or repair the (a) secondary ignition line...This wire will be located on the starter solenoid on the "I" or "R" terminal...track that back up to the BATT side of the Dizzy OR ignition switch .. look for open or shorted wire...AND if no wire is there..add one...

If it's a points type ... check all the above...Pull the cap and check to see the points haven't slipped closed..(no movement on the lobes)..check to be sure none of the wires are shorting from the points all the way to the coil...

Check the coil...be sure + is battery/ballast resistor or resistor wire...and - is to the points...then do an ohms check...disconnect the wires and measure the following...

The primary at R X 1 ohms scale should be less than an ohm..

The secondary at R x 10 k Should Be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms...any more or less (out or reason) then replace the coil..

If it's HEI invert the cap and Measure between the TACH and BATT terminals...It should less than an ohm..

On the secondary side measure between the rotor button pick up and the BATT terminal..it should read between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms...replace it it either reading is infinite..or WAY out of spec...

If It's HEI...the module may be blown..

Pull the module and go to the local auto zombie or parts house and get it tested..Have them do it several times..in order to "heat " it up..

If it has failed get a new one and have that tested the same way before you leave the store...the have an abysmal fail rate on most electronics these days..like 1 out of 3 or 5..OBF's ..

Once you leave the store..It's your problem..and will interfere with your troubleshoot..( "Can't be bad..It's BRAND new"... and gets blown off after it still won't start..the same logic as: "IF they didn't WANT me to Drink and Drive..why put parking lots in front of bars..") Always double check..If you have to do it twice..

When you reinstall the module old, or replacement..don't forget the heat sink compound!! or you'll be doing it again in a few weeks.It will overheat and burn up..wipe off the old stuff and apply generously (but not sloppy) to the bottom of the module..and reinstall on the advance plate..

That should get you fire on either type system..

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