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Old 09-08-2006, 01:51 PM
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Electrical Nightmare

I have a 641/2 Mustang, six cylinder, auto, no air or PS which has a huge drain on the battery. I disconnected the negative cable and hooked a test light from the cable to the neg battery post, the light comes on which tells me I have a problem. I have pulled all the fuses, one at a time, hoping isolate the problem and with all fuses out, the light remains on. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated before this Ford is reborn as a Chevy!!

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Old 09-08-2006, 04:28 PM
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Doc here,

Disconnect the Alternator, then read your current again..

Use a DVOM, configured for AMPS and highest scale..(10 amps usually) , hook between the cable and battery post..Scale back to the highest readout WITHOUT pegging the readout.

This will be your actual draw.

If you have A CD player, With active memory presets, or Alarm system or ANY computerized aftermarket devices with memory it will read between 0.3 and 0.8 amps (less than an amp.) any higher you have a problem..

If you just put a lamp across the cable / Battery with a memory running it will light...but you do not have a problem. Always use a DVOM.

If your Alternator is internally regulated and the draw is not within tolerance..pull the wires and test again. If it drops back..then replace the alternator, or rebuild it with a kit. (the diode regulator has failed)

If it's externally regulated, pull the wires for the regulator, and test again..if it falls into spec, replace the regulator..its welded Shut.

Doc
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:45 PM
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I have seen the radio noise reducers that look like condensors that are hooked to the voltage regulators go bad and drain the battery quickly,if it has a alternator unplug the voltage regulator and see what happens or if it has a generator disconnect the B terminal from the regulator and see if a drain still exsists. Jeff
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:16 PM
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Electrical Nightmare

I have pulled the votage regulator and alternator and the test light still lites. There is no CD and the radio doesn't work. The alternator puts out 13.5 volts. The battery drains fast. Is here anything on the back of the speedo panel that may cause this.

Thanks to everyone for the help

Jim
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:55 PM
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Doc here,

Nope..

A test lamp IS not going to help you..If you have a clock..it will light ..but it will take months to drain at that draw..

Quote:
Use a DVOM, configured for AMPS and highest scale..(10 amps usually) , hook between the cable and battery post..Scale back to the highest readout WITHOUT pegging the readout.

This will be your actual draw.

If you just put a lamp across the cable / Battery with a memory running it will light...but you do not have a problem. Always use a DVOM.
We assume as always, you have tested the battery under a load test and it was eliminated as a source..If not..have that done FIRST..with bad cells a single instrument bulb can kill it in a few hours.

You Did remove ALL the wires from the Alternator? correct ? including the big red wire?

Next inspect..and REMOVE any wires on the Battery cable side of the starter solenoid..test with Your DVOM again..if it is dead..Check your horn relay for welded contacts..and disconnected horns. Be sure trunk and hood lamps are out and defeated.same with any power radio antenna...Also , if a radio is broken , and it has memory presets..THOSE will still remain active..regardless of the state of the radio (separate circuits)

If it is not there, someone has added a wire for something, at sometime that is shorting partially or consuming power at a great rate that you need to address..this means crawling under the dash and hand over handing the wire until you find a non~stock situation.

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