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Old 09-21-2006, 06:24 PM
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electrical problems in my chevy truck?

In my 1972 C10 chevy.I just took the original402ci engine out to swap for a 350 I just built.The problem is in the wiring.I had somebody try to help me with the wiring.the bb had the alternator on the opposite side.So he extended the wires.well near were the battery goes there is some sort of thing that was supposed to hold some wires he had unhooked them.Now I don't know which wires go this thing.Im not sure but I think three wires went to it.Right now I changed the alternator twice thinking that was why its not charging.But that was'nt the problem.Also I have to hook up a wire from the distributor directly to the battery If I want to start it.Otherwise in the cab you'll just hear it turning but not trying to fire.Also awhile ago I hooked up a nitrous switch.to the ign switch.So you have to flip the switch then turn the key.to start it.I really don't do much wiring but im having trouble on this one.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks.
Bonzipenguins

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Old 09-21-2006, 06:32 PM
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points, HEI, what ignition. points need a bypass going to the starter from the coil, otherwise you get 3 volts going to the coil during cranking, when it needs 6 volts
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:47 PM
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I converted to hei about 4 years ago in the big block.I kept the hei with my new engine.
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:44 PM
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Doc here,

Did you remove the ballast resistor when you changed to HEI ? If not you need to...



On the alternator, If it is a standard internally regulated SI series , It will connect this way,

The big terminal, #1 will go directly to the Starter Via a 10 gauge wire and proper Fuse link..and will be hot all the time..

Terminal 2 , will hook to the Brown wire from the body (idiot lamp / fuse / load resistor)

Terminal 3 , Can hook directly to the big terminal from the battery, OR you can run it there yourself, this will give you a bit better regulation (on faster / longer) or remote sensing..

The Ground lug will get a 10 gauge wire run at or near the starter ground on the block.

On the Ignition, Set your DVOM for DCV, VX50 or autorange, and measure the "BATT" wire from the cap with the key on..It should read 12 volts..If not you have a fuse link out on the hot at all times side of the switch OR the switch is bad or has an open wire at the IGN side.

Next check it while cranking, it should read around 11 volts..If it goes to zero, you will need some type of secondary ignition system to support power to the HEI during crank mode..

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Old 09-21-2006, 08:31 PM
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I will take a look and try it in the morning.
Thanks Doc,
Bonzipenguins
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:52 PM
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See! I knew i was gonna learn something today, Doc, you answered a couple of the questions that i was going to be asking in the next while.I hope you are around when i get back to doing the wiring on my p/u (72 with newer 305, serpintine belts, hei etc.) too cool,, I love this place!...ken
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