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Old 10-03-2010, 03:53 PM
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Electrical system shuts off

Hey Guys
My 36 Ford streetrod shuts off at any speed or at idle. When this happens all the gauges go to zero ,car won't turn over but all the lights work. After about 5 minutes everything starts working again. I replaced battery connectors before i found out the lights still worked. Need help before i get stranded.

Bob

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Old 10-03-2010, 03:59 PM
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what kind of electrical system do you have?
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:13 PM
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X2 we need more info on this to help. We can throw out some guessing but would rather know what we are working with. JMO


Cole
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:37 PM
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One of the key troubleshooting points is that your lights, which don't go through the ignition, still work.

I had a Honda once with a similar problem, and it was a bad ignition switch. It could also be a loose connection at the main junction, or a break in the wire that runs from the junction over to the ignition switch. If its got stock wiring, a bad fusible link might lose power when it gets hot enough to let the conductors inside separate.

Bruce
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Old 10-03-2010, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latech
what kind of electrical system do you have?
12 volt...no computer
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:03 PM
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The basic electrical system has (2) parts.
1- power on at all times. 2- power on ignition on.
Your problem is on #2.
I assume that it goes dead without blowing a fuse.
Usually the most common cause of an intermitent problem is 1- a bad connection, 2- a bad switch.
Bad connection could be under the fuse block.
Loose fuse clip.
Improper wire terminal crimp.
If you are blowing fuses that's another story.

vicrod
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:58 PM
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Hi

Thanks for the info. I didn't know the electrical system had (2) parts. You are right, my problem is in # 2. I guess I'll start at the ignision and check every conection from there. Thanks Again..........No blown fuses
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:05 PM
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car shuts off

When the car goes dead, You said you had lights, the head lights gets it's power from the battery terminal on the Ing. switch, which is always hot. You have a wire from the fuse board to the Ing. terminal of the Ing. switch You have a wire from the Ing. terminal of the Ing. switch to the coil if you are running points, or right to the H.I.E. distributor. If one of those wire is loose it could cause heat which would over heat, either the switch, the coil, or the distributor. and cause it to shut down, none of these are fused, unless someone added one. I don't think it the alternator because once it's running you can run with out it for awhile until the battery goes to low to supply power. The wire from the solenoid battery terminal to the Ing. switch, I don't think would do it, I think if that got hot it would melt or at least smoke. It wouldn't be the neutral safety switch, you already have it started. You say you run it, and then it just shuts off, wait 5 MIN. and it starts, sounds to me like something is getting hot, like the coil, that would make enough heat in a short time to get hot. Just a thought.

35terraplane
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:56 PM
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Engine shuts off

Hi
After reading your comments i think it might be that wire that goes to the distributor or the coil.

My car is a restored 1936 Ford With a 350 Chevy engine. I have searched the car over and can not find a fuse panel. Car does not have a computer.

I'll let you know if its one of those two wire.

Thanks for the info

Bob
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:56 PM
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Another guess but many old and worn ignition switches simply cant handle the load of the electrical items they control. They overheat, things turn off, cool down and everything good again.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobs36ford
Hi
After reading your comments i think it might be that wire that goes to the distributor or the coil.

My car is a restored 1936 Ford With a 350 Chevy engine. I have searched the car over and can not find a fuse panel. Car does not have a computer.

I'll let you know if its one of those two wire.

Thanks for the info

Bob
Bob Do you have an H.E.J. distributor, or one with points. If you do the coil is close to the DIST. and that would be getting hot, if you have an H.E.I. then the coil is in the top of the distributor. I don't think that it is any wire or it would either burn or smoke , but you could check it with a meter to make sure, but if there was an open wire you would not get it to run. as bubbahotep said it could be your ING. switch if you are using the 36 switch, but I don't think it's that, but not a wire because wires are either good or bad they don't get hot and quit then cool off and work again as far as I know.

Bob

Also you either have a fuse panel or fuses inline fore the light circuits, and other things If you don't I would put one in ASAP, I would before I run it. You are just asking for a fire.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:42 PM
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It sounds to me that there is an automatic reset breaker in the system that is not up to the load. Find it and make sure it is rated to the wire size . I found that NAPA has them on the pegs from 10 amp to 40 amp.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:52 PM
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shuts off

Allen there are no fuses or circuit breakers in the Ing. wiring. Unless someone put one in. There might be a fusible link but once that, went your done.

Bob

Go read your e-mail.

Good night
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35terraplane
Allen there are no fuses or circuit breakers in the Ing. wiring. Unless someone put one in. There might be a fusible link but once that, went your done.

Bob

Go read your e-mail.

Good night
Bob , What I was thinking is that somebody put automatic reset breakers in the system . We are talking about a restored '36 Ford . Who knows what has been done .
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:07 PM
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36 ford

Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Bob , What I was thinking is that somebody put automatic reset breakers in the system . We are talking about a restored '36 Ford . Who knows what has been done .
Allan go back up a couple posts, Bob said he had a restored car, with a 350 in it.
One thing that really bothered me is he said he could find no fuse panel. That means every circuit has got it's own fuse or there are none at all. I told him I would not run it if it were mine, until I found the fuse panel, or I would park it and rewire it. I would also put a kill Switch where I can reach it from the driver seat. When people bring their cars in to have them wired I will not do them if they don't want a kill switch, you never know what can happen, I had a brand new cable on my throttle and it broke and shorted out on the oil sending unit, if I would not had a kill switch we could have kissed that 40 ford good by.

Bob on you 36 have you checked behind the kick panels, Trace a wire back from your column if you are using a GM column, the purple or brown wire from the long skinny plug on the column back and see where they go those are both power wires and they have to get it from some where. I'm telling you you are worse off with no fuse panel than just the motor shutting off. If those circuits don't have fuses again park it. Let me know I can help you wire it over the phone I did a buddy's of mine in FL. that way.

Later 35terraplane
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