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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2005, 10:22 PM
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being a electrician, I have a couple digital fluke meters & a Amprobe Digital Multimeter, kinda high dollar stuff for 12v vehicle/garage stuff. My dad bought me this coil cord test light from HF and its a nice test lite . I don't like poking holes in insulation of wires, but these 4 the money are the best I've found. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43700

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2005, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
being a electrician, I have a couple digital fluke meters & a Amprobe Digital Multimeter, kinda high dollar stuff for 12v vehicle/garage stuff. My dad bought me this coil cord test light from HF and its a nice test lite . I don't like poking holes in insulation of wires, but these 4 the money are the best I've found. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43700
looks cheap from the aligator clip, I went to swapmeet on satuday and bought a test light for $3, the Alligator clip was one of those cheap ones, I went to a hardware store and bought aligator clip,better
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2005, 05:42 PM
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used my power probe again putting a bass tube in the old ladies car
I had to scab on to the back speakers [2000 focus]
knocked the plug off reinstalling the speaker was able to use it to find out why the left side wasn't working
tested for ground & continuity and found it less than 5 minuets

forever I would have been there with a test light or a meter

bazooka bass tube was just what the pukus...mucus Focus needed

boom shakalaka BOOM

SR66
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2005, 07:45 PM
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Rob-
Don't get me wrong-I've got a PPII and find it to be a great tool,but until you know how to use it and are aware of what you can and can't ground/backfeed on the present generation of computerized/electronic cars,you're better off sticking with the basic test light and test leads.
You gotta walk before you can run,if you know what I mean.Backfeed the wrong wire with 12V and you can smoke a computer real quick,and we all know what that costs.While the PP can make it real easy and fast to troubleshoot and repair electrical problems when used by an experienced mechanic,in the hands of someone without experience,it makes it real easy to screw up before you realize what happened.If you have to take the time to figure out what you're jumping out or backfeeding to hook up the test leads/light,you'll have a chance to catch yourself before you get smoke.

George
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Old 12-25-2005, 09:14 PM
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I'll let the argument go on between the test light and the PP......
If you stick with this field and when money allows, buy a Fluke multimeter. Yes they are expensive, but nothing is as accurate.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2005, 09:52 PM
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Fast Orange
TRUE!
My ignorance there ,definitely!

Because I don't know how to or own or work on puter vehicles.

VERY TRUE I never even thought about the complexities of Puter cars and their PITA components all my CRAP is OLD


I hope I never have [another] a car with a computer.

I know next to nothing about them its a" 50-50 " thing..
1/2 of wishes I did and the other 1/2 is glad I don't
eccentric thinking?? maybe stupid even ...

I had a 87 Suburban 350 TBI
was driving it and it started acting like a timing chain.

Tore it down .. wrong!

Replaced it while I was there .
NEW oil pump gears chain
H2O pump still don't run
catalytic converter ?nope
dist? nope
maps sensor ? nope
3 mechanics later find out the pick up coil on dist
(reman from car quest)
is wound back wards so its sending the timing so far advanced wouldn't run
all & all I spent over $6500. on it drove it less than 1,000 miles traded it for 77 F150 460 4bbl C-6 that im driving now

While I love technology I completely lack the education it takes to work on the things i barley have the skills to operate this PC

I definitely can see your point and I stand corrected on that level....learn me more

PS I didn't come here to have a argument in any way I just seen this thread active in my"CP"and had used it today so I thought I poke ...got poked back with a bigger stick !!

I hope you see the humor in that

thanks for NOT poking my eye out

SR66
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2005, 03:34 PM
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Rob-
No offense meant or taken.I should have explained my point better and sooner.
I wish I didn't have to deal with some of this new improved stuff too.Only problem is that my boss likes new and shiny stuff.If the carmakers stopped with all of this electronic crap around 1979 or so,life would be a lot simpler.
The boss just got himself a new company car-a Lexus SUV with every bell and whistle-touch screen climate control,navigation and sound system.It's supposed to have 7 separate computers in it.I told him to get the extended warranty and don't ever pull it into my shop-I don't even want to look under the hood.

George

Last edited by Fast Orange; 12-26-2005 at 08:07 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2005, 06:48 PM
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7 computers O M G!!!

No dude my fualt for being dumb arse I like learning stuff

I rented a 05 DeVille back in june to go to my brother funeral in NY and the car was sweet gadjet and what nots but Im a firm beliver in K.I.S.S.
Keep
It
Simple
Stupid
all those bells wistles and gadjets are great untill something breaks or a roach chews through a wire or something stupid

to me the cut off year is 1985 or 86 is when chevy went "puterized"

but the puterizations are impressive in how much power they squeez out which is cool until it dont work then you gotta be a smarty and or pay big bucks to have someone else fix it

Im not cheap ....just broke



SR66
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2005, 08:00 PM
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Really Cheap Tool

Tacking down electrical gremlins is one of the most frustrating jobs there
is. I would buy the best diagnostic tool I could afford.

A great, cheap little tool to double check your work as you wire a project
is a door open / left your key in the ignition 12 volt buzzer.
Attach alligator clips to the two leads and you are ready to go. Need to
check that your left turn signal overrides your left brake signal? Hook up
your ten cent tester out back and listen. I use a 12 volt toy transformer rather
than an auto battery to power up for testing, just in case!



I reject your reality and substitute my own.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.NutCase
I have a Craftman multimeter, needs new test leads( Its my fault, I cut them, but I hope Crazy Glue works)but Sears no longer makes them. I was wondering is the actronIII meter #CP7665 is good?
Costs at $30 Pepboys, or should I buy Craftsman multimeter.
I fixed the multimeter leads, I used Crazy Glue and it works
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 01:37 PM
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If you buy a new test light, I reccomend getting one that is "computer safe". If you hook into a computer controlled circut with an ordinary test light, you'll fry the ECM. Nowhere near enough resistance in that bulb to drop the amperage down, you basically created a short to ground. And nothing ever works right after you let the magic smoke out, .

Really, the best bet is a good quality DVOM. You need one with 10 mega ohms (10,000,000)or more to safely test ECM controlled circuts, and on newer vehicals, EVERYTHING is ECM controlled. My personal belief is that a $250 DVOM is better than a couple $500 ECM's. I have never used the PPII, but it sounds like a great tool, and I wouldn't mind test driving one for a couple days at work.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2006, 08:03 PM
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I went to sears and bought another set of test leads, they fit the multimeter, I had to trim them.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2006, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
If you buy a new test light, I reccomend getting one that is "computer safe". If you hook into a computer controlled circut with an ordinary test light, you'll fry the ECM. Nowhere near enough resistance in that bulb to drop the amperage down, you basically created a short to ground. And nothing ever works right after you let the magic smoke out, .

Really, the best bet is a good quality DVOM. You need one with 10 mega ohms (10,000,000)or more to safely test ECM controlled circuts, and on newer vehicals, EVERYTHING is ECM controlled. My personal belief is that a $250 DVOM is better than a couple $500 ECM's. I have never used the PPII, but it sounds like a great tool, and I wouldn't mind test driving one for a couple days at work.
Are Craftsman Testlights computer safe?, how do I know they are computer safe?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2006, 09:49 PM
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They will be advertised as "computer safe", and most will have a circut board w/LEDs and resistors inside them. As stated before, a good DVOM is a better investment, and will do the job of a light, as well as many others. I know the price tag can be kind of intimidating, but just think of what the tag will be on the VCM on a new Solstice, or somehing.($500-$2000+ ) The meter will save time, money, and most of all remove that nagging doubt of "is this going to hurt anything". Second guessing causes more comebacks than anything other than ineptitude, in my experience.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2006, 11:34 AM
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A good understanding of what you're working on.
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