I'm working on a 37 Buick resto-mod and considering eliminating vent windows and replacing with single front door windows. Been a long time since it drove a vehicle with these side windows, but I seem to recall them adding wind noise and once had a truck stolen by access through one. I'm adding AC to the unit so don't need the air flow. I have to buy all new windows, seals and channels.
1) Is my memory right that these are a source for wind noise and break-ins?
2) Is it very difficult to eliminate these vent windows?
Thanks
it is a bit of trouble but well worth it in my opinion ,its one of the first things I did to my coupe...you'll need to fabricate some new tracks for the glass to ride in up front.
You may want to consider going to power windows. There are some kits out there that can help you with creating the new window channels. If the windows are flat glass, create a template out of cardboard. Make sure you template fits and operates in the mechanism. Take the template to a glazier. Make sure they use the proper style automotive safety glass to create the new window.
power windows was a must for me but I went to the junkyard and got mine out of an 04 2 dr monty carlo while I was at it I grabbed the electric latches and all the rods and handles and installed them too. I used plexiglass for my templates ,which are still in there, the real glass will come later on. fitting the plexiglass was pretty ez but the tracks gave me some grief. a kit would be a good idea if you can find one. the difference is incredible, much better lookin
something that might help a lot is cutting out the inner door at the holes for the interior panel then installing nuts and bolts to hold it in place ,it makes removing and replacing a breeze when doing the tracks and elec windows...
The interior trim piece will need some work too....
I'm using power locks out of a 95 Buick Roadmaster I bought for drive train, but the my 37 Buick has very thin doors and I don't think the p window mechanisms will fit.
What car and year is your project?
I did the vent window removal in my 38 Chev Coupe. My doors are not flat from front edge to rear edge, so it was difficult. Most of the curve must be removed in body work. You need to establish how much curve there is to your doors, build all custom window channels and use an after market power window kit that has a remote motor. There is not a lot of room in there so mounting the motor off to the side will simplify the build. Use some 1/4 inch tempered Masonite as a template for the glass to check that everything goes up and down as it should. Tempered Masonite wont flex much. You can buy bendable felt window channel from a auto glass supply company and fasten them into your custom made U channel that you will build. Lots of work but well worth the outcome.
The doors themselves can be curved but the glass is flat I used lexan so I could drive the car a little since you can see through it its easier to get a perfect fit what I found out is my first set of templates fit the hole perfect when in and up when I went to install the channel at the bottom for the regulator slide the template was about 2" short so I had to cut another set that went further down into the door (it all has to be fitted and installed to working order BEFORE you order your glass).
Something else I found out is I had 4 door electric motor and regs from a 2000 ish Impala and they were thrown in a box together I unknowingly used one for a rear door and they only go up and down about 6" (back door glass dosent go down all the way) so use some from a 2dr car save yourself some headeache. my plan is to have some flat safety glass NOT tempered glass that way I can order a big flat piece and cut the glass to fit myself using a router and special diamond bit with lots of water safety glass (like your windshield) CAN be cut fairly easily at home as tempered can not be cut down or ground down.
when I did my electric latches I made two VERY stupid mistakes.
like the window regulators I threw it all in a box together and I installed the rt latch on the lf door (it was upside down) luckily all I had to do was redrill the mounting holes the latches symmetrical so its an easy mistake, the second mistake is I used the same 4dr latches that got from the same car I got the regulators from so the rods were too short and the inside handle wasn't far enough forward I had to use another set from a 2000ish 2dr monty carlo...I'll try to post a few pics so you can see the extra holes from my first attempt
My 37 Pontiac should have the same doors as yours. I did this to mine and am happy I did, but much more involved than on other cars. The door glass is at an angle to the vent glass. It is not a straight line from the rear run channel to the front of the door. I made a relief cut on the inner door panel right where the two glasses meet and pulled the inner in until it was straight. I then welded in a right angle piece of sheetmetal on the outer door window opening parallel to the inner. NOW you have the straight shot you need for flat door glass and can make a new front run channel, templates etc. I used a Specialty Power Windows kit.
One other problem I encountered was that my first plexi window templates were made the same depth as the original glass. I found that the window rocked quite badly when going up an down. Due to the shape of the window openings and thusly the glass, there was very little contact area with the front and rear window channels. Maybe 2 inches at the most. I added 2 inches to the bottom of the next window templates giving it 4 inches of straight edge that would ride in the channel, and this eliminated the rocking.
The interior garnish mlds also have to have relief cuts made and metal added to them to conform to the new shape. For an outer belt mld I cut down some Dodge D-50 belt mlds and glued them in with urethane.
If you install a 4" peep mirror in the right place, there is surprising little wind or wind noise in the interior. I can easily drive down the highway at 70 mph with the windows down.
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