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Old 10-12-2003, 12:17 AM
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My engine is carbed


Also will that "Gauranteed to pass" stuff really work?

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Old 10-12-2003, 12:55 AM
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Smile

bribe the mechanic....
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Old 10-12-2003, 09:21 AM
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the emissions testing is done by computer so I dont know if that would work
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Old 10-12-2003, 09:29 AM
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was the engine fully warmed up? The catalitic converters efficency is direclty related to the temperature..... A least that what my chemistry teacher tell us. He said his car failed when he just drove it to the shop to have tested. His mechanic told him to drive it for 30 minutes and try it again. sure enough he passed.
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Old 10-12-2003, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sean N
was the engine fully warmed up? The catalitic converters efficency is direclty related to the temperature..... A least that what my chemistry teacher tell us. He said his car failed when he just drove it to the shop to have tested. His mechanic told him to drive it for 30 minutes and try it again. sure enough he passed.
There is truth to your post Sean. Some people keep shutting their cars off and restarting them while waiting on line. This forces the computer to keep going from closed loop to open loop operation and doesn't allow the cat. converter to reach optimum temp. for catalist eficiency.


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Old 10-13-2003, 08:27 AM
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My engine was probably running 15 minutes prior to the test
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Old 10-13-2003, 12:45 PM
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I had allot of experience with emissions problems when I had to get my 78 350 powered camaro to pass. It had a 600 CFM Holley with a 204-214 .420 .443 cam and single exhaust with converter still in place.

Usually all it took to pass was leaning out the mixture screws to the point it would ALMOST miss at an idle. Running the highest allowable idle seemed to help too, I always shot for around 850-900. I never had to retard the timing and it did not have egr in place. Always passed and they never did underhood checks, I lived in WPB, FL.

They always gave me some BS reason why it didn't pass if it didn't make the first pass. They once told me I needed new piston wrings or a carb overhaul. I pulled into the parking lot adusted the carb idle mixture a little leaner drove it back through and it passed, they didn't like it but oh well!
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Old 10-14-2003, 07:54 PM
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Hey Jmark are you still checking in? After taking some time to sit back and re-read through the posts (especially your looong one) I have come to the conclusion that I owe you an apology. I will admit I really didn't take the time to thoroughly read through all the posts well enough initially but afterwards took the time to read through again. Aside from cutsupremes troubles after re-reading your posts I started re-thinking my EGR thoughts. I had originally formed the analogy that the EGR in a sense richened the mixture because I knew that the already burnt exhaust gasses lacked combustable oxygen, somewhere along the line someone must have worded it like that and I just never really analized it. After reading through what you wrote I guess you could say that technically the EGR doesn't really richen or lean out the mixture since as it's allowing less fresh air(oxygen) into the combustion chamber it is also allowing less fuel at the same time. The carb is still going to mix whatever ratio of fuel to air it is designed to do but the EGR just allows less of that mixture into the cylinders. Then I'm also thinking maybe at idle when we manually crank open the EGR we maybe aren't technically leaning her out as much as we are just totally depleating the cylinders of combustable gasses. What do you think???? I respect what you have to say or I would not have even wasted my time thinking this over and posting this reply. Maybe I should have read a little more thoroughly and typed a little less the other night but here we are and what's done is done. Hope you can accept this apology, Don.

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Old 10-14-2003, 08:27 PM
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Hi Don, no apology needed. I came on kinda strong too. Just wanted Cutsupreme to have a good shot at fixin the problem.

Hope to have more good conversations.
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Old 12-22-2003, 06:25 PM
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Red face Failed emissions test

I have a 94 Chrysler LHS and live in Ohio. I failed the Emissions test today on HC 200.5 (Limit 114.0) and CO 6.78 (Limit 0.63). Any suggestions as to what can be wrong? I just noticed today that my car seems to be using a lot of gas. It runs great, but has a little shakiness at idle sometimes.

Sue
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Old 12-23-2003, 12:10 AM
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Lot of things could be wrong here Sue. Dont know if your car is OBDI or OBD II. Should be stated on the emission decal under the hood. Possible O2 sensor, high fuel pressure, MAP or MAF, ect. It can get expensive guessing at parts. Have the codes read and go from there........... I dont think its the EGR!
If this car has run with these kind of readings (rich) very long it could have damaged your cat.
BTW Don and Jmark - good discussion! I did smog check for 20 yrs here in Cal and I still dont completely understand all the ramifications and interactions of emission controls and testing. I smogged my Maxima today and the HC limit was 112 and I passed with 112.
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Old 12-23-2003, 04:34 AM
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Re: Emissions HELP

Quote:
Originally posted by cutsupreme
I have an 85 cutlass supreme. This means I still have to pass the emissions test.

So of course I go to get my car inspected, safety passes fine but I fail emissions.
Does anyone know an easy way to lower the emission the car produces.
I went to a shop and the guy said it could be the timing chain, and that would be pretty expensive to fix.
Does anyone have any other ideas that can help me pass emissions.

Thanks for any input
Get an oil change, use some G2P formula or other de-carbonizer. Before you take it in for emissions drive the car for about half an hour. Also set the carb to run lean before they hook it up to the machine. Always works.
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Old 12-23-2003, 04:38 AM
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Map Sensor?

Thanx for your quick reply! The car as I said, runs great. I just got the E check yesterday and just noticed it was using a lot of gas a little bit later the same day (I know I wasn't having this gas useage problem prior to the E check). I've replaced 2 map sensors, one of them was replaced Aug 2001 and the other one July 2002 (it was under warranty). The only other problem I've ever had with this car is my check engine light has come on twice in the last 3 months. As soon as I shut the car off and restarted it, it stayed off and as I've said, there have been no other problems with the car, it runs like a dream. Come to think of it, the last time the map sensor went out - prior to that my check engine light came on a few times but went right back out and I didn't notice anything wrong with it until a month or so later when it was running really rough.

It had a full tune up and the works last October (2002), spark plug wires, the works. I've probably only put maybe 5000 miles on this car in the last year. I've changed the oil regularly but guess it's time for that again. And I'll have my mechanic replace the air cleaner when he does that (I replaced it last October too).

So could the map sensor alone be responsible for the failed HC and CO readings? The last time the map sensor went out, I thought something was wrong with my transmission because the car would barely go into reverse when I tried to back it out and it was running rough, I could barely get it to my mechanic. He serviced the transmission and as I said found that second bad map sensor. The time before when my map sensor went out the car wouldn't start at all. I'm wondering if the map sensor slowly goes bad and that's why the check engine light comes on sporadically but the car still runs? I do have a mechanic and thankfully he's the only mechanic that's ever worked on this car, he's going to check it out after the first of the year (I have until Feb 16 to pass the E check).

Again, thanx for your help, this is a great Forum.

Sue
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Old 12-23-2003, 04:51 AM
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Sue,

Your car is running real rich, replace the o2 sensor and try the test again. Something has to be telling the computer that the car needs more gas than it should be getting, this is usuall a faulty o2 sensor, and is also cheap to replace.

Last edited by 87442lover; 12-23-2003 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 12-23-2003, 06:01 AM
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Hi Sue, your car should be OBDI. Like 2-manytoyzs said it could be many things. Any sensor out of range could fool the computer into delivering the wrong amount of fuel. If the 'check engine' light came on there should be a code stored even after it shuts itself back off. As mentioned by 87442lover, a O2 sensor is a good guess (but still just a guess!). If she has high mileage the sensor could be what we call 'lazy' meaning she's cycling too slow. If your mechanic has a decent scanner he should be able to verify the sensors cycle rate. I would start with getting codes pulled and then look into your O2 sensor. Both good suggestions by the other members. The code check is important because even a bad coolant temp sensor could 'fool' the computer into thinking the engine is cold all the time and cause her to run rich.


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Last edited by dmorris1200; 12-27-2003 at 09:17 AM.
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