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Old 08-31-2013, 12:51 AM
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Endura Bumper repair

not an endura expert here but just thought this might be useful to somebody out there. I got all my ideas and knowledge on repairing these things thru a buddy, on line, and Barry from SPI.

The first thing I want to do is line up the gaps on the car so when you put the bumper on I work the bumper to the gaps and "live with" anything that may be a subtle issue to correct. Sometimes when you line up something adjacent to what you're about to put on, that part might have to be moved to accommodate the new part and you do as Martin says, "you do the dance" and make it all work. In this case your only issue would be lining up the fender tips/peak to the peak of the bumper, as this keeps it flush with the sides and top, and so any imperfections from fender to bumper are in places that are easier to deal with and NOT having to do with building a cake on the side or peak cause you are not lined up on top correctly. We'll get back to that later...


First off, I take the bumper off and strip it with 80 grit. I use an aggressive orbit DA with a hard pad and another one with a soft pad. I also use a 3" DA. All of these tools together used at the proper times, will help eliminate hand sanding while saving all the contour peaks to maintain the original shape. In other words, the hard pad DA for flat areas and the soft pad DA for round areas, and extreme areas by hand. This takes a LONG time cause not only are you stripping it, you are stripping it until the superficial cracks sand out and whatever crap bondo is in those cracks will at least help you know when you're almost done sanding them out, cause they will sand out a little before the the crack is entirely sanded out. You must sand them out and blow on the area with high pressure air to ensure that the cracks are indeed gone. So be mindful of retaining somewhat of the original shape while doing this, like a good prepper would.


This flat area is almost done but I'll have to pick these bondo filled gouges out one by one. If you notice on the right you see a curve. Any curved areas like that I do with a soft pad DA and by hand. THOSE are the areas that take the longest.



Now let's put this bumper on! I don't use every bracket for mock up. Just the main bracket and the bolts in the side thru the fender. Any more than that would severely slow down the process. So I first line up the main bracket as best as can be with only the bolts on top of the bumper fastened to the main bracket. Here is where you can add shims for extra movement than what the main bracket provides. So during mock up you must expect an easy way to put this on/off while fixing it. These are the only bolts I deal with in between fixing and mocking it up. Not the shouldered bolts either.




now it's time to start pointing out imperfections. There are two areas to reference to line this up. The lip that lines up to the edge of the hood and the peak to the fender peak. Which one do you think leaves less work? So before doing any work you must focus on getting the peaks to line up. At that point you can look at imperfections and what you need to do. I see a bunch of imperfects here!





this one is telling me the fender needs to be rolled upwards.


I fix this by placing one hand firmly on the corner of the fender closest to the corner of the hood, and the other hand under the fender pushing up with all my weight. This will raise the peak. When it's really extreme as this you "do the dance" and do a little of both, raising the peak of the fender by rolling it upwards AND shaving down some endura rubber. Once you roll the fender I was cleared to go ahead and install the lower valiance. but last so I have the maneuverability and ease of simple mock up.





now it's time to deal with the edges. So I mark where I need to add bumper repair. The areas in between the tape marks should be beveled at the edge before adding the bumper repair.









now it's time to start sanding.



after sanding let's check the fitment. It looks like it needs more sanding in certain areas.



I'll check other areas that need to be addressed as well. The gap to the hood in general is not a huge concern. Just being even is what I'm after. I can always scoot the hood up a tad on final assembly and lose a little of the gap from the rear of the hood to the rear of the fender. It will be a good trade off.

I didn't like this.








now let's coat this area where it's important and where the cracks didn't sand out. Basically everywhere! This bumper repair sets up 5 minutes. It's challenging to coat this thing. It took many applications.


the next time I do this I will shave down a spreader to match the contour of some of those difficult areas to spread. It will help with leaving a nice equal layer of the bumper repair and cut down some of the time it takes.



all done.

Opps! forgot a spot. The tough spot!!!

I sand out as much as possible with the 3" DA on this angle and the rest by hand.



I couldn't sand out all the cracks so it's bumper repair spread with my gloved fingers.




After bumper repair is almost caked on the whole bumper it's time to use poly flex glazing putty.





what makes this bumper troublesome is the fact only epoxy primer, epoxy adhesives, or plastic bumper repair should be applied to endura rubber, and some say adhesion promoter and 2-k. Flexible primers only. Bondo does not stick well to this material. So my decision was to sand out all or most of the cracks and use bumper repair everywhere needed and put my poly flex only on the bumper repair.







Will post more pics when it's ready to go on the car. It's going to get epoxied and cross linked to a urethane primer, then blocked and painted

Last edited by tech69; 08-31-2013 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:46 AM
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Nice fit job 69, I don't think i have ever done one of these that did not take 40 hours of work to make it fit like it never did from the factory.

A couple of things, who ever told you to use adhesion promoter, needs to stick to repairing new Honda's Don't do it!

Remember this bumper is nothing more the a slight copy of old bias type tire technology, totally different then new bumpers in last 30 years.

My only concerns are two.
I'm not so sure that polyflex should be applied to the bumper but should have been put over epoxy, polyesters and these bumpers don't mix and if it is not a two part repair like your sem, then over epoxy is best.
I know nothing about the polyflex????

Cleaning, a waterborne cleaner is best BUT, if used should set overnight to make sure all the solvents are gone.
I probably have told a 100 shops in last three years, either use a water base wax and grease remover or don't clean at all, solvent-borne can be a problem as it can be a on a TPO,TEO,PE, PP type bumper.

One other thing, when I apply the epoxy, I normally do 3-4 coats and block it down with 180 and re epoxy for a final finish sand, I try to avoid 2k unless one spot just has to have it.

Looking good!
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
Nice fit job 69, I don't think i have ever done one of these that did not take 40 hours of work to make it fit like it never did from the factory.

A couple of things, who ever told you to use adhesion promoter, needs to stick to repairing new Honda's Don't do it!

Remember this bumper is nothing more the a slight copy of old bias type tire technology, totally different then new bumpers in last 30 years.

My only concerns are two.
I'm not so sure that polyflex should be applied to the bumper but should have been put over epoxy, polyesters and these bumpers don't mix and if it is not a two part repair like your sem, then over epoxy is best.
I know nothing about the polyflex????

Cleaning, a waterborne cleaner is best BUT, if used should set overnight to make sure all the solvents are gone.
I probably have told a 100 shops in last three years, either use a water base wax and grease remover or don't clean at all, solvent-borne can be a problem as it can be a on a TPO,TEO,PE, PP type bumper.

One other thing, when I apply the epoxy, I normally do 3-4 coats and block it down with 180 and re epoxy for a final finish sand, I try to avoid 2k unless one spot just has to have it.

Looking good!
I forgot to mention the waterborne grease and wax remover and or the soap and warm water after stripping it I left it in the sun all day and overnight. Not sure if it was 12 hours though.

the poly flex is ok ONLY over the bumper repair. I made sure to check with the product and it mentioned adding polyester glaze over it to smooth it out. So the trick was NOT spreading it over the bumper but only to smooth out things on the bumper repair. In a perfect world I would have asked the painter to epoxy it but this job was a freebie so I decided to cake it with bumper repair where important and leave endura rubber where I was sure 100% all the cracks sanded out. As far as adhesion promoter, I just added that cause so many people are saying to use it, what we're going to do is epoxy and then 2k it after a long flash of the epoxy. Just wanted to be open with how multiple people are doing this, that's all. I take your advice over all.

on a side note, if adhesion promoter isn't good for this bumper I wonder if that makes the choice to use SEM bumper repair an even better choice, cause it doesn't call for adhesion promoter. Maybe it makes it worse cause it's in the bumper repair. I dunno.

Last edited by tech69; 08-31-2013 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:24 AM
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The sem plastic repair in gun is works great, personally I have only used Duramix 4040 or 4030 depending what i had laying around but Fusior, 3M, Sem and Norton have equal products that will work just great.

Ok I now know how you used the Polyfix, sounds good to me.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:08 PM
put up or shut up
 

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what are the work times on those Duramix 4040 or 4030? The plastic repair we used had a 5 minute work time. Dramatically affected the time it took to repair it. To the extent that I had to fill this thing with bumper repair a long work time would have helped.
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:16 PM
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The 4050 and 4040 are 1 minutes work times but they have others also 4125
I could be off on number but it ends with 25 that is either 10-15 min.
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