Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/)
-   Engine (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/engine/)
-   -   engine angle (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/engine-angle-232453.html)

f1 crazy 05-02-2013 01:04 PM

engine angle
 
HI my name is Craig, I have a 1952 f1 that I am installing a 351 w in I have the engine and transmission sitting in there with aftermarket crossmembers looks good, how do I figure out the angle or what does the angle need to be at, I will be installing a new differential too. can anyone help me?

oldbogie 05-02-2013 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1 crazy (Post 1672153)
HI my name is Craig, I have a 1952 f1 that I am installing a 351 w in I have the engine and transmission sitting in there with aftermarket crossmembers looks good, how do I figure out the angle or what does the angle need to be at, I will be installing a new differential too. can anyone help me?

You need to get the carb level, if using one. That means mocking up the installation with the intake your going to use and leveling the carb pad front to rear and left to right.

Bogie

sedanbob 05-02-2013 06:08 PM

Ideally, this should be calculated with the vehicle at ride height, front and rear. Since you mentioned you will be changing the rear differential, if you plan to change the height of the rear suspension, try to have the rear of the car where you intend it will be after your changes.

techinspector1 05-02-2013 06:21 PM

The motor/trans unit can be positioned anywhere in the engine bay to miss other components such as steering, brake booster, etc. You have to keep the centerline of the crankshaft perpendicular to the centerline of the rear differential, but other than that, the package can go most anywhere you want it to. '60's/'70's Mopars sometimes had the package as far as 3" to the passenger side to clear other components such as valve cover to brake booster clearance, so don't think it has to go right down the middle. It doesn't, as long as there is breathing room for the bellhousing and transmission in the driveshaft tunnel. And even that isn't sacred. You can cut some sheetmetal out to make the whole mess work if you need to, then weld it back in after the swap is complete. Just leave enough clearance between any part of the motor/trans and any sheetmetal to prevent contact and subsequent noise in the passenger compartment. The motor/trans must be segregated from the sheetmetal of the truck by rubber or urethane mounts at all locations. Rubber is better in my opinion, not so harsh.

One more thing, good engineering practice dictates running the exhaust out to the rear bumper. Terminating it under the truck will create a droning in the truck sheetmetal that will make you crazy in short order. Install an "X" or "H" balance pipe before the mufflers for a more pleasing tone and slightly better performance/mileage.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:51 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.