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Old 09-16-2013, 05:14 PM
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Engine Bay clean up. 82 C10, 383

Hey guys i had my brother drop my 383 into my truck, it runs ok but it looks like crap. Im assuming since the factory smog, and electric carb stuff was removed I not longer need the majority of the stuff in the engine bay. The mechanic (brother) did a bootleg job and the stuff was made to run but the way its all in there looks bad. This is the same truck ive been working on since 2011 and I starting building the engine in 2010. Because of the military i had been away from my truck until now. It is finally here in my garage in SC. Im mechanically inclined and i think i can tackle the task of fine tuning my engine bay. I have a multimeter, and a general knowledge of most things. Anyone can give me a quick rundown of whats needed and whats not? This also goes for heater & vacuum hoses. There are screws in random hoses. I can upload pictures soon. I also plan on doing away with the factor vacuum canister and going with a comp cams one.

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Old 09-16-2013, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dsgb610 View Post
Hey guys i had my brother drop my 383 into my truck, it runs ok but it looks like crap. Im assuming since the factory smog, and electric carb stuff was removed I not longer need the majority of the stuff in the engine bay. The mechanic (brother) did a bootleg job and the stuff was made to run but the way its all in there looks bad. This is the same truck ive been working on since 2011 and I starting building the engine in 2010. Because of the military i had been away from my truck until now. It is finally here in my garage in SC. Im mechanically inclined and i think i can tackle the task of fine tuning my engine bay. I have a multimeter, and a general knowledge of most things. Anyone can give me a quick rundown of whats needed and whats not? This also goes for heater & vacuum hoses. There are screws in random hoses. I can upload pictures soon. I also plan on doing away with the factor vacuum canister and going with a comp cams one.
First, glad you made it home OK and thanks for your service.

If you take this one system at a time, you'll soon see it's fairly straight forward. You'll need a soldering iron and consumables (solder, flux, wire, terminals, etc.) and a wire stripper, tie wraps, shrink wrap, hot air gun (a good hair dryer will work) and wiring diagrams. This is covered in the 'How to solder' link below.

The distributor is covered below.
Alternator wiring is covered in the Mad Electrical tech section.
Starter wiring is covered in the 'Wiring a remote Ford solenoid' link, or if you didn't want to run a Ford solenoid, a "generic" wiring diagram will show you what goes where (the exact model really doesn't matter as long as it has a HEI), or we can give a more detailed explanation if you need one.

Some electrical info that will come in handy:

Wiring a HEI distributor
How to solder
Automotive wiring 101
Troubleshooting electrical problems
Wiring a remote Ford solenoid
Wiring diagrams
Relay application guide
Wiki Electrical category


Vacuum hoses, plan on running a PCV system.

The fuel system depends on whether you're running a carb or EFI, whether you have a mechanical or electric pump, fuel pressure regulator, whether it has a return line.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:23 PM
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Thank you cobalt. The engine is currently wired up and running, Im just concerned about the vac hoses and unplugged harnesses that i no longer need. but thanks to you i will be re-soldering all the electric tape connections. i purchased a soldering gin and wiring kit today. My main concern is the overall tidiness of everything.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:39 PM
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post some pics and then we can see what your needing to clean up. And yes thank you for your time and service .Two thumbs up!!!
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:01 PM
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here are the pics, baby bro mechanic does not have the attention to detail down yet. Engine is installed and runs good. But alot of stuff is rigged, i want the proper throttle cables, and everything. Ill add more pics, but im hoping someone knows what it takes to drop it in and get it running vs. a proper install. Everything in car is functioning as should.
Truck

My engine when i did it personally

Plug hanging on passenger side. 2 black and 1 orange i think?? plus other random snipped wires.

Why is a heater hose looped into my water pump? is this necessary? if so i will get the proper fitting.

red and white wire with 2 prong connection drivers side.


big vac hose and 5 wire connection on drivers side.


3 green wires coming from passenger side. and vac hose. Engine is now black because of the over spray when i asked him to paint firewall thats why.


these 2 weird plugs were behind my brake booster


If you look through my post history you can see ive been working on this truck since 2010. Now that its up and running I just want to dress it all up and tune it.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:31 AM
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I'd recommend you to find a wiring diagram/manual to identify what is what.

But before you start cutting /eliminating these wires, are you sure that your never going to want to swap back in the original setup? From the pictures you added, I only saw one that I couldn't identify.

One of my favorite ways to figure out something like this is to head off to the junkyard and find a similar setup and figure it out. Take your phone with pics of the wiring and connectors that you have hanging loose and identify what they are and where they go. Combine that info with what you find in a service manual/wiring diagram/Cobalt's links and you should have a good idea what you can do.


Also, make sure none of those wires that are dangling around are live. If they are, then start pulling fuses, etc, to get of rid of the power. I would NOT recommend wrapping a live wire in electrical ape and burying it in some loom - NOT A GOOD IDEA. Would hate to see you burn up your truck!


Lastly, glad to hear you are home and SAFE. Thanks for your service and commitment.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:28 AM
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As Said Thank You for your Service and glad to see you home safe and sound

As for cleaning up the Spaghetti unfortunately the time to do this was when the motor was out and you could have laid it all out pryer to install and eliminated what wasn't going to be used. But you can of course still do it now, it'll just be a little harder.

You truly have to become one with the spaghetti and start tracing each and every unused wire, plug, or line. Then as said pull fuses if need be and eliminate the unused mess completely (not just tie it off and hide it).

Lets face it with a 383 Carburetor Motor all you need is the basic motor wiring first; Distributor, Alternator, & Starter. Then stuff like AC if you have..
As for Vacuum lines maybe one large one for the brakes, one for the Distributor, and maybe one other. Everything else was for switches, sensors, and controls you no longer have.

I'm a strong believer is VERY CLEAN engine compartments
Here's my old 383 Stroker Motor in my old Pro Street Ranger


My old 468 in my Pro Street Nova


My Current 418 in my Current Pro Street Ranger (alot harder to make a Ford motor clean with the dist upfront)


And my Current 502 in my Current Pro Street Sierra (cant see ANY WIRING)



The more time you put into it the better the outcome....
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:50 AM
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I'd take each plug or harness one at a time. Check the connector to be sure there aren't any jumpers or wires connected, and if not, then follow them back to the main harness they come off and cut them short. Each cut end should be safe by heat shrinking tubing over the bare cut. Once you've got all the wires short and extras removed, then you can dress down the harness with 33+ tape to clean things up further.
Same for hoses. Remove them back to the last connector and then you can narrow it down by removing multi port connectors and get the vacuum system back to it's basics, with maybe just a T here or there.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProStreetRob View Post
As Said Thank You for your Service and glad to see you home safe and sound

As for cleaning up the Spaghetti unfortunately the time to do this was when the motor was out and you could have laid it all out pryer to install and eliminated what wasn't going to be used. But you can of course still do it now, it'll just be a little harder.

You truly have to become one with the spaghetti and start tracing each and every unused wire, plug, or line. Then as said pull fuses if need be and eliminate the unused mess completely (not just tie it off and hide it).

Lets face it with a 383 Carburetor Motor all you need is the basic motor wiring first; Distributor, Alternator, & Starter. Then stuff like AC if you have..
As for Vacuum lines maybe one large one for the brakes, one for the Distributor, and maybe one other. Everything else was for switches, sensors, and controls you no longer have.


The more time you put into it the better the outcome....
nice, this is what im aiming at. I already got some of it yanked out. The ESC. It was just hanging.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:26 AM
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Glad you're home safe. Thanks as always for your service and commitment to our country.

Im going to pitch an idea and start a little controversy. Instead of unscrewing a screwed up spaghetti mess of OLD wiring, jumpers, tape, random connectors and etc; why not buy a new harness? park the truck in a 2 car garage, lay the harness out on the floor and start laying it in place. I HATE old wiring. I dont trust it, or the guy who screwed with it before I got it.

It'd probably be faster to gut the wiring in the engine bay, perhaps the whole truck and install an aftermarket harness.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
Glad you're home safe. Thanks as always for your service and commitment to our country.

Im going to pitch an idea and start a little controversy. Instead of unscrewing a screwed up spaghetti mess of OLD wiring, jumpers, tape, random connectors and etc; why not buy a new harness? park the truck in a 2 car garage, lay the harness out on the floor and start laying it in place. I HATE old wiring. I dont trust it, or the guy who screwed with it before I got it.

It'd probably be faster to gut the wiring in the engine bay, perhaps the whole truck and install an aftermarket harness.
Is there someplace where i can provide my specs and get a custom harness? Also I removed far more than i placed in the truck. I no longer have electric distro, Cruise, 700trans, electric choke, etc..

Last edited by dsgb610; 09-19-2013 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:54 AM
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Contact Kwik Wire. They're from the Wisconsin area. American made product, very high quality, everything is marked, comes with things like a coil disconnect, fuse panel, Maxi and ATO fuses. Our booth was next to them at the Right Coast Nat'l in Syracuse NY for 3 days, and I got to speak to company Founder Gary St Mary. I was seriously impressed.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
Contact Kwik Wire. They're from the Wisconsin area. American made product, very high quality, everything is marked, comes with things like a coil disconnect, fuse panel, Maxi and ATO fuses. Our booth was next to them at the Right Coast Nat'l in Syracuse NY for 3 days, and I got to speak to company Founder Gary St Mary. I was seriously impressed.
checking out the site now
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:38 PM
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I would check out Speedway's 20 ckt. GM harness. It would be perfect for your PU, and worked well on my Falcon project, as I put a Chevrolet motor, Camaro column. It mounted up, and came with new headlight switch, plus dimmer, and connectors to plug right into a GM column. Great 6-7 page wiring diagram that made connecting it a snap, plus well marked wires, and spares. Plenty of length to reach front and rear bumpers too! It's only $160, so very reasonably priced too!
Speedway Universal 20 Circuit Wiring Harness - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I would check out Speedway's 20 ckt. GM harness. It would be perfect for your PU, and worked well on my Falcon project, as I put a Chevrolet motor, Camaro column. It mounted up, and came with new headlight switch, plus dimmer, and connectors to plug right into a GM column. Great 6-7 page wiring diagram that made connecting it a snap, plus well marked wires, and spares. Plenty of length to reach front and rear bumpers too! It's only $160, so very reasonably priced too!
Speedway Universal 20 Circuit Wiring Harness - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Is it possible to swap harness while engine is in? Or best to take it out.
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